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Question of the Month

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October 2010Paula Begoun 

Dear Paula,

I could not live without Beautypedia.com; you've saved me thousands of dollars, as I'm a sucker for good advertising. I'm 39 years old, but my eyes unfortunately look years older. They don't have bags; they have hollows and these cause me to look extremely tired. I asked my dermatologist what's happening and she told me the fat pockets under my eyes are depleted. (Why can't this ever happen to my thighs?!)

Although prescription Tri-Luma has lightened the tired-looking grooves somewhat (and concealer helps, but not much), my dermatologist said the only thing that would really help is hyaluronic acid filler injections (Juvederm, etc.). This terrifies me, as I don't want to look puffy, either—plus, it's my face we're talking about here! I'd rather look tired than distorted.

Is there any hope for me beyond these injections? I think I've tried every makeup trick in the book. If not, do you know anything about these fillers? (As you can imagine, my doctor has a great sales pitch.) Erinn, via email

Dear Erinn,

I feel your pain. There is a sad irony to the fact that as you age you lose fat on your face but not on your hips! Sigh. Despite what might have felt like a sales pitch from your dermatologist is correct about recommending dermal fillers as being the best option to correct undereye hollowing. Once the fat pads beneath the eyes are depleted, there are no cosmetic products or even other corrective procedures that can add volume and "re-contour" this area. Even cosmetic surgery doesn't work very well in your situation.

Your concerns about not wanting to make your undereye area look puffy and distorted are understandable, but when dermal fillers are done correctly by a highly skilled dermatologist, lingering puffiness or eye-area distortion aren't typical outcomes. In order to make the undereye area look puffy, the dermatologist would have to really overdo the filler or you'd have to have an unanticipated reaction to the filler substance—one more reason you need to seek out a dermatologist who's highly skilled with using fillers around the eye and does pre-procedure testing to make sure you have minimal to no risk of a reaction.

As for Juvederm (and Restylane, another common filler also composed of hyaluronic acid), there isn't a lot of evidence that this is safe for use around the eyes though it is used off label for the eye area. Fat transplantation under the eye (where your own fat is used) is another option, though there are a limited number of doctors specializing in this procedure (and it does require a specialist). Lastly, Sculptra is another type of filler to consider, though its results for improving undereye hollows are slower-acting and demand at-home compliance for best results. People who get Sculptra injections around the eye (also an off-label use for this filler) must perform an undereye massage technique to ensure the filler works as intended—and several treatments are necessary before full results (which can be quite impressive and long-lasting) are seen.

Tri Luma is a hydroquinone-based prescription medication that is excellent for melanin-based dark circles if your skin can tolerate it. You can help your eye area look younger longer by always using a well formulated, antioxidant-rich sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater daily. Your skin-care routine should also include a serum and/or moisturizer loaded with ingredients that can improve skin's barrier function and enhance healthy collagen production. All of this will help the eye area look younger whether it is hollowed or not.

Cosmetically, consider an undereye brightening-type concealer. One of my favorites is the dual-sided concealer/highlighter from Maybelline New York known as Instant Age Rewind Double Face Perfector.



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