Dear Paula,

I have used your products for years. I have always had oily skin that is prone to acne and for the most part, I had it under control. Recently, for whatever reason, I decided I needed a moisturizer. I have never been able to find a moisturizer that doesn't cause whiteheads, especially on my forehead. I have spoken with several cosmetic and skin care advisors who have all said that I do not have oily skin (even though it looks oily). They insist that I must be causing my skin to be oily by NOT using a moisturizer. They say a moisturizer helps protect the skin and keep the skin from producing oil. Without a moisturizer, the skin can sense its dry so produces more oil, causing an excessive oily look and breakouts. Whether it's true or not I fell for this information, but no matter what moisturizer I use, my skin is still oily and breaking out. I don't want to dry out my skin and cause more problems and I realize I should probably protect my skin with a moisturizer and/or serum of antioxidants, but I can't seem to find anything that doesn't cause my skin to feel and look slick and shiny. Can you please help?

Dawn, via email

Dear Dawn,

There are some myths, lies and just plain stupid information that just won't die in the cosmetics industry. Two of the dumbest ones around are that everyone needs a "moisturizer" which usually means everyone needs a product in some kind of lotion or cream form and that oily skin is a response to skin being dry. Neither is true in the least, and not a shred of evidence exists to the contrary. Here's the truth:

What all skin types need are healthy ingredients for maintenance, enhancement, and repair. I talk about them all the time: antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, and cell- communicating ingredients. These types of ingredients keep skin young, build collagen, keep the barrier intact (eliminating dry skin), and prevent redness and inflammation. As a general rule, for dry skin those ingredients should come in an emollient cream form, for normal to dry skin they should be in a lotion or serum, for oily or combination skin they should be in a gel or liquid. It doesn't matter what the label on the product states; what counts is that the essential ingredients skin needs are in a product with a texture appropriate for your skin type.

As for the inane information you’ve been told about oily skin being caused by having dry here are the facts: If moisturizer could keep skin from producing oil, then those with oily skin could solve this problem by using any moisturizer. But we know from experience that applying an emollient moisturizer in a lotion or cream form to oily skin only makes it oilier, right? Which is exactly what you experienced. Plus why would anyone have dry skin then? Wouldn't their skin be making excess oil? But that doesn't happen (ask any of your friends with dry skin if their oil glands are out of control).

Skin is oily strictly because of male hormones triggering oil production in the pore. Period. There is no other reason. I guarantee that if you drop the lotion or cream-type moisturizer from your routine and instead use a beautifully formulated toner and/or serum your oily skin and breakouts will improve.

What about moisturizers being able to protect skin? To some extent, that’s true but it isn't about the product being in a lotion or cream form it's about the ingredients it contains. They have nothing to do with the texture; those three magical categories for skin, antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, and cell-communicating ingredeints. Those are the substances in a moisturizer that can protect dry skin from moisture loss and help rebuild a damaged barrier while supplying ingredients that help skin repair itself.

One more point: the major product that protects skin is a sunscreen because sun damage is the number one killer of skin. A sunscreen of SPF 15 or greater, and greater is better can come in a lotion, cream, serum, foundation, or pressed powder. For someone with oily skin, for the face, a sunscreen in a foundation and pressed powder works bests.

Lastly, I have two product recommendations for your concerns: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Toner and Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate. Both will help bring your skin into balance while reducing excess oiliness and supplying your skin with the proven ingredients it needs to function at its best.