Dear Paula, 
I have been reading your books for over a decade and using your products for several years. My question is regarding which products are really necessary, and if it is OK to cut out a few steps. In your past books, you have mentioned that a toner and moisturizer (for oily skin) are not necessary, unless you like the way they feel or have dry patches. But I notice that in your current recommendations on the site, you include these steps without saying they are optional. I am wondering if new research has shown that it is necessary to include these products, or if they are still considered optional?

Below are the products that I am currently using plus my prescription retinoid; I am 30 with oily skin, acne, and am trying to ward off future signs of aging:

1. Paula's Choice Hydralight One Step Cleanser for Normal to Oily/Combination Skin 
2. Paula's Choice 2% BHA Gel 
3. Tretinoin cream 0.025% (night only) 
4. Paula's Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum 
5. Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer SPF 15 for Sensitive Skin (day only)

Would adding toner and night moisturizer help improve my results, and if so, what ingredients should I look for that I'm not already getting from the BHA, Retin-A, and the serum?  
Lori, via email

Dear Lori,

Believe me, I understand the desire to eliminate steps from a skin-care routine, especially at night. For lots of women they can barely brush and floss before falling into bed!

Don't worry about your routine because for the most part it's perfect! I have a better suggestion for a daytime moisturizer for you, but first, let's talk toner and moisturizer!

In my previous books from a long time ago (I've written 18 books on skin care and makeup!) I did mention that toner is an optional step but that was because so many toners are terribly formulated and hurt rather than help your skin. Shockingly, that is still true today. But for my products I created truly unique, state-of-the-art toners that contain ingredients all skin types need to look and function in a younger, healthier manner. They are an essential part of any Paula's Choice routine, and for those with oily areas (especially in warm, humid climates) they can be the only "moisturizer" your skin needs (that's true for me).

The same logic behind using a toner applies to using a moisturizer when skin is oily, but here's the difference: when skin is oily, your moisturizer should be in gel, serum, or liquid form—not a cream or lotion. It's not so much about giving your oily skin "moisture" or emollients as it is about giving it the essential ingredients (antioxidants, skin-repairing and cell-communicating) that benefit everyone—especially those wanting skin that acts younger or more normal!

In your case, if you're open to expanding your routine a bit, you may want to use Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner after cleansing. This toner helps "train" your skin to produce healthier cells while also reducing excess oil and minimizing pore size. You can follow with the BHA Gel in the morning and the tretinoin product at night. After the tretinoin, apply a small dab of the RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum, being sure to use this around your eyes, too (remember, you don't need an eye cream).

Now for the new product suggestion: although the Olay daytime moisturizer you're using has its strong points, overall it has an average formula and your skin deserves brilliant formulas every step of the way! Olay offers better sunscreens, and one you should consider is their Complete Ageless Skin Renewing Lotion SPF 20. It's light and silky, works great under makeup, and treats your skin to several state-of-the-art ingredients. You can read all the details at Beautypedia, which is free for everyone through February.