February 2002
Dear Paula,
I've recently read that NouriCel, developed by Advanced Tissue Sciences, is the next best thing in the fight against wrinkles. The claims are that skin treated with NouriCel regenerates collagen five times faster than skin treated with Retin-A and that unlike Retin-A, NouriCel doesn't irritate skin but rather it heals skin. I trust your honest and thorough insight--What is the reality of this new cosmetic ingredient?

Erika, via e-mail

Dear Erika,
Any and all information about NouriCel being effective for wrinkles or building collagen is generated by Advanced Tissue Sciences, the company manufacturing and licensing the ingredient to cosmetics companies. The questions I've been receiving about NouriCel primarily correspond with the infomercial debut for a small line of products called RevitaCel, being marketed by Biozhem. RevitaCel contains the showcased ingredient NouriCel. You'll recognize this infomercial as you flip channels when you see actress Lindsay Wagner, who is the hired spokesperson for this line.

According to Advanced Tissue Science, NouriCel is a natural by-product of the company's patented process for engineering human tissue for burn treatment and wound repair. NouriCel is supposed to be a type of human growth factor. It is derived from a nutrient solution that is used to feed and grow engineered cells that ultimately become human tissue. NouriCel, in vitro, helps stimulate the tissue to produce collagen (source: www.advancedtissue.com).

Advanced Tissue Sciences has two studies they feel demonstrate the value of their new miracle ingredient. Of the two studies, one had 14 participants and the other 16. In the first study (not double-blind, peer-reviewed, nor published), 9 of the 14 participants had visible improvements and an average decrease in wrinkle depth of approximately 27% after using the product for 60 days. Their other study showed a 50 to 80% increase in collagen production. If those numbers sound impressive to you then it may be something for you to consider, but the protocol for this study is more fluff than science and hardly sweeping in scope. A more extensive study for NouriCel is reportedly due out shortly but the new study was conducted by SkinMedica, and they are hardly an objective or non-interested party, as they are already selling a product that contains NouriCel.

If NouriCel sounds interesting to you, you can buy RevitaCel Replenishing Complex with NouriCel ($39.99 for 4 ounces). Strangely enough, NouriCel is also available in a product sold by SkinMedica called TNS Recovery Complex ($130 for 0.5 ounce). SkinMedica is a self-styled professional line of products available only from physicians (but clearly their formulations are available from other sources). This sounds exactly like the story for the ingredient Kinetin, which is also an alleged miracle antiwrinkle ingredient. When Kinetin was first launched, in the product called Kinerase that is primarily sold by physicians, it retailed for over $70 for 1 ounce. It is now available from The Body Shop and Almay for less than $20 for 1 ounce.

Advanced Tissue Science is probably banking on the success of their new ingredient, as their company has had significant financial losses. According to Strategic Global Investors Newsletter, June 1, 2001, the company's NASDAQ-traded stock (ATIS) was selling at $3.85, down from a 52-week high of $6.75. That followed a delay in the FDA's approval for Advanced Tissue Science's wound covering made with human cells, called Dermagraft, the first of its kind (source: FDA Consumer Magazine, (July-August 1997). It goes without saying that as a cosmetic ingredient (not a drug) NouriCel is a far easier product to produce, since it doesn't have to overcome the same obstacles or require the costs needed to obtain FDA approval that Advanced Tissue Science's other products do.

For more information about RevitaCel from Biozhem call (800) 463-1952 or visit www.biozhem.com. For more information about SkinMedica call (877) 944-1412 or visit www.skinmedica.com.