Dear Paula,

Thank you for such informative and honest information. I have a question about open pores. I have tried researching about the causes of or treatments for open pores and there seems to be little information available or what’s available is conflicting. Can you tell me what, if anything, I can do to minimize the size of open pores over the cheek area?

Ama, via email

Dear Ama,

Thanks for your feedback! Your concern about pore size is one I hear about from many of my readers and I have for years. And what is true now has been true for some time, there are limited options for reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. There are no secrets or magic ingredients. It is a frustrating problem and the hundreds of products claiming they have the answer only adds to the confusion. 

Before I discuss this further, I need to reiterate the physiological fact that pores do not open and close like window blinds. Pores enlarge as our oil glands mature (that’s why children always have nearly invisible pores) in our teen years, and their final size as we enter adulthood is genetically predetermined (Source: Total Skin, Leffell, David J., Hyperion, 2000).
From the teen years onward, our pores can become clogged with a mixture of sebum (oil) dead skin cells, and other debris. The more oil production and the more dead skin cells getting in the way of the pore causes the pore to become enlarged. That’s why one of the major ways to improve the appearance of large pores is with a well-formulated exfoliant. A liquid, gel, or lotion containg salicylic acid (BHA) is the first option to consider. BHA can exfoliate on the surface of skin and inside the pore to cut through the cellular debris and help it shed. Clearing the blockage over time can help return the pore to its normal size, well, at least somewhat. A pore’s normal size may still seem too large to you, but that is it’s natural, genetic size nonetheless.

Don’t get into the habit of inspecting your bare face with a magnifying mirror. Especially with overhead lighting (which most of us have in our homes) large pores viewed in  a magnifying mirror can seem positively crater–like in appearance—but that’s not the reality and it’s not how others are perceiving your skin.

The struggle to cover up large pores is nothing less than maddening. The very nature of a depression in the skin makes it difficult, if not impossible, to keep the indentation from showing. Especially if your skin is still oily, and even if you use an extremely matte foundation, such as Revlon’s regular ColorStay, Lancome’s Teint Idole, or Estee Lauder’s Double Wear, your skin’s oil can still cause some shifting, creating a look of pooled foundation in the pore.

I apologize for sounding dismal about this, but when there are limitations in the skin and in the world of makeup, searching for better options or alternatives can waste money and only increase your frustration. Here are some tips to tackle the problem. It isn’t foolproof and it won’t work for everyone, but these are the best options available.

• Avoid moisturizer over the open-pore areas of the face before applying makeup—even if you have dry skin. Any extra “slip” on the skin will cause makeup to pool in the pore. If the skin is dry and flaky, be more diligent in the evening about treating your skin with a gentle cleanser, toner loaded with state–of–the–art ingredients, exfoliant, and possibly a lightweight gel moisturizer so you don't add oils and waxes to skin that can further clog pores. Then in the morning use that same well–formulated toner (such as Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Toner) to help soothe skin and reduce any dry feeling, yet not add anything that can make skin feel slippery. It is essential that your foundation contain your sunscreen, because an additional sunscreen under the foundation will almost certainly cause slippage.
• Use a matte or ultra-matte foundation. Even if you have dry skin, these stay on far better than other foundations, are somewhat impervious to oil production, and, therefore, help prevent the foundation from slipping into the pore.
• Consider applying an oil-absorbing serum or similar product after cleansing/toning and before your foundation. Some of my favorite products for this purpose (and all of them really work) are OC Eight Professional Mattifying Gel, Smashbox Anti-Shine, Clinique Pore Minimizer Instant Perfector, and Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate. All of these products can also be gently dabbed over oily areas hours after you’ve applied your matte finish foundation.
• Touch up your makeup several times during the day with oil-blotting papers. Then dust the face with a pressed powder designed to be worn as a foundation. Pressed powder foundations apply a slightly thicker layer of powder than regular pressed powders do, and can better hide pores. But do this only with a brush; never use a sponge or pad to apply powder because they can place way too much product on the face, making things look cakey and thick. Lots of companies make great oil-blotting papers, but some of my favorites are those from Sonia Kashuk, Paula’s Choice, and Sephora. For pressed powder foundations, consider Clinique Perfectly Real Compact Makeup, Make Up For Ever Duo Matte Powder Foundation, and Laura Mercier Foundation Powder.