April 2007
Dear Paula,
It was wonderful hearing you speak in Stockholm recently. You mentioned that you recently reviewed the popular European line, Lumene. Would you share your research with us?

Signed,
Sofia via email

Dear Sofia,
Thank you for writing. It was my great pleasure to meet you and so many of my European readers during my recent media tour.

European import Lumene has been on the scene across the ocean for more than 35 years, yet it’s still a relative newcomer to the United States retail market, having debuted with minimal advertising and promotion at CVS drugstores in summer 2003. As of this writing, Lumene is still exclusive to CVS. Lumene consists of a large (and I mean really, really large) selection of products they promote as being “The Secret to Natural Beauty.” Well, there are no secrets to be found in this line, only lots and lots of mediocre (and I mean really, really mediocre) products bearing claims that range from the typical absurd to the ludicrous.

Particularly ludicrous is Lumene’s use of supposedly rare Arctic or Scandinavian ingredients, including arctic cloudberry, peat, and water lily. But none of these have substantiated research proving their benefit for skin, you just have to take Lumene’s word for it. Even if such research existed and Lumene was onto something no one else was privy to, the amount of the aforementioned ingredients in their products is barely a dusting. If this is Lumene’s idea of “advanced technology,” then they should have paid closer attention to established research because several key elements are either missing or come up short in these products. For example, it is well established how beneficial antioxidants are when added to skin-care products, and particularly sunscreens. Lumene includes them occasionally, but not in any significant amount and often not in packaging that will help keep them stable once the package is opened. Another issue is that although all of their sunscreens contain UVA-protecting ingredients, a few of them sport woefully low SPF ratings, making them poor choices for protection. So much for advanced technology! This is also not a line to shop if you’re looking for an effective AHA or BHA product or for products with cell-communicating ingredients.

Despite these shortcomings, a few worthwhile products can be found, and Lumene’s price point is considerably lower than that of many neighboring lines such as Olay and Neutrogena. The exception to that is their Premium Beauty subcategory, which is about as premium as Wonder Bread. There are a couple of good serums and eye-area moisturizers to consider, as well as some basic though effective options from Lumene’s cleansers, eye-makeup removers, and sunscreens rated SPF 15 or higher. Given the size and scope of this line (did I mention that it’s huge?), you have to be extra careful to be sure you’re getting a worthwhile product that really will make a difference for your skin. After all, a bargain is no bargain if it doesn’t add up to great skin care. For more information about Lumene, visit www.lumene.com or www.cvs.com.