How do I decide what distinguishes a terrible product from a great one, or a good product from a fantastic formulation? Above all, you need to know that I do not base any decision on my own personal experience, or let my personal feelings about a particular company blur my judgment. Just because I like the way a product feels on my skin, doesn’t translate to how thousands of other skin types will feel about it.

I base my decision on the individual product’s formulation as it relates to extensive published research about the ingredients being used and their possible interactions with the skin. From that I can assess the potential for irritation, dryness, breakouts, sensitivities, greasiness, anti-wrinkle claims, exfoliation potential, healing, antioxidant value, sun protection, and other issues of performance.

If I think a company is overcharging for its products or is dishonest in their claims and literature, no matter how unethical I find it, that won’t prevent me from saying their product is good for a particular skin type if the formulation proves to be a great one. (Though I do often say, "This is a good product but what a shame the price has to be so absurd and the claims so offensive!").

There are lots of Web sites and message boards that discuss individual reactions to products. That can have value for consumers, but it still won’t tell you the consequence of a product. Someone may love the way a $100 moisturizer feels on their skin, but that doesn’t tell you whether or not it can live up to the claims on the label, if the formulation is worth the price or if it can be replaced by a less expensive version.

My determination of each individual product’s rating is based on a specific benchmark established for each product category. Using those criterion (for example the pH and concentration of AHA or BHA in a product or the importance of UVA-protecting ingredients in a formulation) I ask the following questions of each product:

1. Given the ingredient list, can the product do what it promises?
   
   
2. How does the product differ from other products?
   
   
3. If a special ingredient(s) is showcased, how much is actually in the product, and is there independent research verifying the claim?
   
   
4. Does the product contain problematic fragrances (often listed as essential oils), plant extracts, irritants, or other questionable ingredients?
   
   
5. How far-fetched are the product’s claims?
   
   
6. Do I feel this product is safe? Are there risks such as allergic reactions or increased sun sensitivity?
   
   
7. Are there similar or identical formulations available that cost less?

Go to Product Reviews