"Organic" has become a cosmetic buzzword on par with "all-natural". Consumers are inundated with organic claims on all manner of products, and with frequent media stories surrounding the potential health risks and unknowns of anything remotely synthetic, curiosity for organic products is at an all-time high with product sales skyrocketing. Celebrities and cosmetic companies are launching skin-care products labeled organic faster then you can say “but is this really good for my skin?”!
Organically speaking, what does the term “organic” mean in the world of cosmetics, but principally for skin care? Shockingly, it doesn’t really mean anything because there is no cohesive definition, and different organizations/businesses have sprung up trying to become the source or stamp of approval, for a fee of course. There is also the battle of the organic lines with each saying theirs is the real deal and everyone else if fibbing. Is it any wonder that many consumers looking for genuine organic products are completely bewildered? So basically you can call your product organic and there is really no one to stop you regardless of what it contains.
Mostly the term “organic” or “all natural” is perpetuating the myth that synthetic ingredients are automatically bad and natural ingredients are automatically good. Now it seems that only organic ingredients are good and even natural ingredients are now bad unless they are obtained organically. Making people afraid of something, be it a single ingredient or en entire category of ingredients, is part of how natural and organic products are marketed.
The truth is more complicated. Consumers are waylaid by the labels, trusting (albeit blindly) the one they’ve chosen is the right brand. In reality what ends up happening more often then not is just an exchange of one marketing scheme (i.e. traditional cosmetic companies), to the new one of products labeled with organic plants.
As you venture out to shop for a great skin-care routine, thinking that healthy-sounding product labels will take the utmost care of your skin, some rational consideration and being armed with the facts surrounding organic products is the best balance for your budget and skin.
Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics
Since October 2002, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), national regulations have been on the books that specify exact standards for determining what precisely is meant when food (not cosmetics) is labeled “organic,” whether it is grown in the United States or imported from other countries. As is stated on the USDA Web site, “Organic food is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. Organic meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products come from animals that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones. Organic food is produced without using most conventional pesticides, fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge, bioengineering, or ionizing radiation. Before a product can be labeled ‘organic,’ a government-approved certifier inspects the farm where the food is grown to make sure the farmer is following all the rules necessary to meet USDA organic standards. Companies that handle or process organic food before it gets to your local supermarket or restaurant must be certified, too.”
What does any of this have to do with cosmetics? Many consumers are already attracted to any cosmetic that claims to be natural, no matter how bogus the claim. To make their products stand out from the rest, cosmetics companies are starting to use the term “organic” on their product labels. But as Consumer Reports (August 2003, page 61) stated, “With no hearings or public discussion, the USDA extended its rules on organic labeling to cosmetics. There are now shampoos and body lotions labeled 70% organic based on the fact that their main ingredient is … water in which something organic, such as an organic lavender leaf, has been soaked.”
Tim Kapsner, Senior Research Scientist at Aveda, made a salient point by stating that “In absence of a true industry standard, companies applied the USDA organic food standard for beauty and personal care products ingredients and products, But the USDA’s food standards were never designed for this industry, and its strict guidelines limit certain types of ‘green chemistry’ and pose significant challenges for those seeking to create certified organic products.”
Note: For more detailed information on the USDA organic standards, visit their Web site at www.ams.usda.gov/nop or call the National Organic Program at (202) 720-3252.
Green Chemistry Defined
As mentioned above in the quote from the Aveda chemist, green chemistry is typically described as “the design of chemical products and processes that reduce or eliminate the use or generation of hazardous substances. Green chemistry applies across the life cycle, including the design, manufacture, and use of a chemical product.” (Source: www.epa.gov/gcc/)/). Also known as sustainable chemistry, the goals of those utilizing this method to manufacture products include reducing waste, energy, and eliminating negative environmental impact. It’s a movement that has all the right goals in mind, including working with all types of raw material suppliers to ensure that the ingredients they develop are as “green” as possible. This includes hazardous chemicals (think bleach, ammonia, disinfectants, preservatives), which green chemistry does not discourage but rather looks for ways to make these necessary yet hazardous chemicals less dangerous.
Keep in mind that the majority of hazardous chemicals pose minimal risk to us or the environment when they are used as directed and disposed of properly. Green chemistry doesn’t rely solely on natural ingredients, but this type of product formulation is far more realistic and ends up being more helpful for skin, relying on the best of both worlds (nature and science). Green chemistry advocates strive to use as many natural/sustainable ingredient sources as possible, but as any cosmetics chemist will tell you, it is impossible to make a 100% natural product that can successfully fight acne, skin discolorations, sun damage, sun protection, or other skin problems. For example, at the very least synthetic preservatives are needed to control the growth of bacteria and potentially harmful microbes even in products composed of natural ingredients. Natural preservatives just don’t have the efficacy, formulary compatibility, or cost-effectiveness required to make safe, reliably-preserved products (Source: Preservatives for Cosmetics, Second Edition, Allured Publishing, David C. Steinberg).
Work on furthering the concepts and practice of green chemistry has been part of the Environmental Protection Agency’s agenda since the early 1990s. You can expect to see more examples and claims of green chemistry becomes more mainstream—and much of this progress is dictated by consumer demand for safer products.
The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead!
The forecast for continued strong sales of products labeled as organic is nothing less than robust. As a category, organic (and natural) products are worth $7.3 billon. From 2005-2007 there was a 53% increase in organic product launches, including many new brands appearing in well-known retail outlets such as Wal-Mart, Walgreens, and Target. Companies large and small are jumping on the organic bandwagon, whose wheels and fuel (meaning contents) are presumably composed of organic materials.
As you might expect, at least those of you who have been reading my reviews and investigations over the years, the problem is that almost without exception the formulas are not as organic as they’re made out to be and the overuse of irritating, skin-damaging ingredients is the rule rather than the exception. Add to that the routine inclusion of numerous synthetic ingredients in many products erroneously labeled as “organic” and consumers are setting themselves up for false claims and an unhelpful, potentially damaging skin-care routine.
Check the Labels for the Truth
It takes only a quick look at the ingredients list on a cosmetic to notice that there are a lot of words that are completely unrelated to anything resembling a plant, much less a plant that can be labeled “organic.” Plenty of synthetic ingredients are found in products from cosmetics lines that boast about their all “natural” and now “organic” content, even those that have followed the proper channels to be certified organic. Despite this discrepancy, the hope and desire for “healthier-sounding” products will be an emotional pull for lots of consumers, particularly women shopping for themselves and their family. Add the pull off organic products being perceived as more environmentally-friendly and they become even more difficult to resist.
Things become even more confusing when you consider that most “natural” cosmetics lines are sold at supermarkets that showcase organic produce and food products. When specialty grocery stores sell products that have strictly regulated organic labeling, many customers will never notice that the products in the other half of the store, where the cosmetics are sold, are backed by no such regulation, despite the similar labeling.
Organic in Name Only?
It may surprise you to learn that as of late 2008, there are still no FDA-approved standards to meet for labeling cosmetic products as organic. The same is true in Canada, except in the province of Quebec. Another element that's complicating this issue is the fact that even though lots of cosmetics actually do contain organic ingredients, it's rarely the case that the entire formula is organic. Why? There are various reasons, but mostly it's because a number of synthetic ingredients, such as preservatives, are essential components of many cosmetic formulas (there are no natural preservatives that can keep all microbes such as fungus, mold, and bacterium at bay). They're there for a reason: the organic ingredients are not stable and will deteriorate without them. Plus, in contrast to organic food, a certain amount of synthetic ingredients are required in cosmetics to help keep ingredients mixed together, stable, apply smoothly on the skin, and look appealing. What good is an organic or all-natural skin-care product if it’s unappealing to use on a daily basis?
It also helps to remember that you can't put avocados (or any other food item) on your face to "feed" your skin. Natural or organic does not mean better skin care. Blueberry or grape juice doesn’t make for great skin care, won’t fight acne, won’t deal with skin discolorations and won’t protect from the sun. Plus what it takes to get a plant out of the ground and processed to remove the insects and dirt, and get them into your product, stabilized and ready for packaging, and eventually ready for you to use it isn’t the most natural process in the world.
To make a long story short, these factors help explain why, until acceptable standards are in place, any cosmetic can sport an organic label without having to prove the claim—and many cosmetic companies are doing just that. Remember, most creams, lotions, gels, serums, toners, shampoos, conditioners, and cleansers are about 60% to 90% water, that makes almost any product by current lax regulations organic.
More important than getting labeling standards in place is the fact that lots of plant extracts and essential oils have irritating properties that won't help skin in the least (think lemon, lavender, peppermint, menthol, lime, camphor, cinnamon, etc.—so what difference does it make if they're organically grown or not? Environmental impact and sustainable farming notwithstanding, peppermint is a problem for skin, whether it's grown with or without pesticides. It may resonate with you emotionally and morally that your skin-care product purchase helps organic farmers during challenging times (it does for me), but if what’s inside the finished product isn’t going to help your skin, then it’s important to know that there are other ways for you to help the environment without lowering your skin care standards. In summation, there are other ways to support the “Green” movement that don’t involve buying poorly-formulated or irritating cosmetic products.
Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself
Because the cosmetics industry at large knows the organic movement isn’t a passing fad, there is a consortium of natural product-based companies attempting to standardize the definition and labeling of United States-sold cosmetics as organic. They are not only doing this out of frustration at seeing so many products mislabeled as "organic," but also no doubt were inspired by what occurred with regard to organic cosmetics in Europe in 2006.
According to the Web site www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com, the Organic Farmers and Growers developed a cosmetics and body-care standard for companies that wanted to lure consumers with an organic label. Products that meet this group's standards (which are rigorous, but still respectful of current European cosmetic regulations, including the issue of animal testing) are allowed to sport the group's logo on their products, indicating to consumers that they meet organic standards. According to a July 2007 report in Organic Monitor, "With the absence of any major regulations and private standards for natural & organic cosmetics in the USA and Canada, North American companies are increasingly making products according to European standards." But keep in mind that this addresses only the issue of plant origin, not good skin care. Again, we aren't talking about diet. You can’t put broccoli on your face or lettuce and have it be lunch for your skin.
On the flipside, another group of cosmetic companies (including Estee Lauder brands, Jason Natural, and L’Oreal) not widely known for being champions of organic products created the Organic and Sustainable Industry Standards (OASIS), whose guidelines are said to best those of organic certification groups such as Ecocert and the organic seal program run by the United States Department of Agriculture. Under OASIS guidelines, a cosmetic product the manufacturer wants to be labeled organic must contain at least 85% organic content. Plans are in place to tighten this requirement to 95% by 2012, bringing the goal of an almost entirely organic cosmetic product closer to the homes of consumers everywhere. OASIS also has certification systems in place for 100% organic products and allows the statement of “Made with Organic” if a product has no less than 70% organic content.
Sounds good, right? Well, another organic-minded group doesn’t think so. The Organic Consumers Association (OCA) is taking the group to task for allowing synthetic ingredients to be present in products labeled organic, as well as not having a monitoring system in place to avoid the presence of chemical by-products when certain ingredients, such as surfactants, undergo a process known as ethoxylation.
The OCA built its organic standards from the National Organic Program, which is chiefly concerned with organic food. Members of OASIS have pointed out that the standards of the National Organic Program do not apply to cosmetics because the ingredients and manufacturing necessary to make cosmetic products (organic or not) are outside the simplistic scope of what it takes to grow and certify food as organic (and that is an understatement—a pomegranate doesn’t have to sit in your bathroom for a few months before you are done using it).
Nevertheless, the Organic Consumers Association didn’t want to back down. They sent cease and desist letters to OASIS companies selling products labeled as organic but containing non-organic cleansing agents or synthetic antioxidants. OASIS is arguing that their standard permits use of such non-organic ingredients in cosmetic products because there are currently no suitable organic alternatives. OCA is arguing that in addition to the allowance of synthetic ingredients in products labeled organic, OASIS consists of “conventional industry members” with the goal of diluting organic standards to their advantage.
For OCA to assert that their “standards” don’t serve them over and above the consumer is sheer aggrandizement. It’s the pot calling the kettle black and nothing more. Traditional cosmetic companies are not doing a disservice to consumers. OASIS is trying to define organic cosmetic standards for the entire industry, something that is currently lacking. What difference does it make if L’Oreal or Burt’s Bees spearhead solidification for organic standards?
As usual, this all comes down to the smaller natural product companies not wanting larger corporations to use their financial clout and resources to make changes before they can do so (or without their approval) or get the advantage of their marketing manipulation.
I realize some small business owner’s egos may be bruised if OASIS succeeds with their standardization efforts but it is important to keep in mind that large companies with extensive research and development facilities and staff can work more effectively on finding organic solutions to synthetic ingredients (if such is needed). Smaller companies behind the OCA (such as Dr. Bronner’s) can only dream of achieving such a feat. One thing is certain: paying closer attention to organic standards, regardless of affiliation, will pave the way for more accountability and regulation for a term that has been undefined and misused for far too long.
Thinking about the consumer needs to be at the forefront of organic standards, not marketing claims. It always boils down to formulations that are the best for skin. Any ingredient, synthetic or organic if it serves skin without risk should be in your product. Claiming only natural ingredients are good will cheat skin of some incredibly important benefits (Sources: The Rose Sheet, March 10, 2008, page 3; March 24, 2008, page 3; and March 31, 2008, pages 3-4).
It is worth mentioning that there are smaller cosmetic companies (such as Juice Beauty) that are also members of OASIS; they are not a group strictly for large, internationally-distributed cosmetics companies.
Other Organic Groups
In addition to the United States pro-organic groups mentioned above, there are a few other groups in Europe that deserve mention.
- Ecocert is an independent, accredited organic certification group based in France. They’ve been on the scene since 1991. Although the group is based in Europe, they work with over 75 countries and inspect the majority of organic food companies and France and a good portion of such facilities elsewhere, too. Ecocert has branches in several major countries including Spain, Germany, Japan, and Canada. For more information about Ecocert, visit www.ecocert.com.
- Cosmebio is a professional association linked to companies selling organic cosmetics. This group is associated with Ecocert and uses their “Bio” label on certified products meeting their standards for organic content and processing. Products that have the “Bio” label contain a minimum of 95% natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin. They also must have a minimum of 10% organic ingredients. For more information about Cosmebio, visit www.cosmebio.org (note: this Web site is in French but can be translated).
- BDIH is a natural products certification group based in Germany. They are part of the Federation of German Industries and Trading Firms for pharmaceuticals, health care products, dietary supplements and cosmetic products. They developed standard in cooperation with cosmetic ingredient manufacturers specializing in natural ingredients, and their guidelines can be found at this Web address: www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de/en/the_guidelines.htm. A product that conforms to this group’s standards can be legitimately labeled with their “Certified Natural Cosmetics” seal.
Please keep in mind that certification has nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing to do with skin care benefit. This is all about the source of ingredients, not the all important research of benefit and the results consumers are looking for in their skin care products. A stamp of approval on a piece of steak from the USDA does not tell you how a diet of steak may impact your arteries, heart, or brain. The same is exactly true for skin care no matter whose name or certification is on the product.
Shopping for Organic Cosmetics
My preference is that you would never go shopping for any skin care product without me and my teams’ research and analysis about its long term benefit for your skin. Discussing and debating whether a product is organic sidesteps the issue of sun protection, the skin’s need for antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, and cell-communicating ingredients (of which many of the most stable and most “bio-available are synthetically derived from natural sources). You also need to be aware that there is no substantiated, published research anywhere proving that organic ingredients are superior to non-organic or synthetic ingredients.
If organic is the only way you are willing to go, until formal standards are available in the United States and the rest of the world, the best approach is to buy products certified by the USDA or Ecocert or one its related groups. These aren’t perfect systems, but products bearing one of these organization’s seals are an honestly transparent way to decipher just how natural and organic the product you’re considering is.
As burgeoning groups work to solidify organic standards that can be followed globally, shopping by seal and also by the company’s reputation for integrity is the best consumers can do. Of course, unless your attitude is organic-or-nothing, there is every reason to completely ignore any claims of that nature (pun intended) and instead focus on finding the products with ingredients that copious research has shown are truly beneficial for your skin. If some of those products happen to contain organically-certified ingredients, great. But if not, consumers don’t need to lose sleep over missing out on this segment of the worldwide movement to go Green.
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