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Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary


Excellent azelaic acid


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Trade name Azelex and available by prescription; a component of grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is effective for a number of skin conditions when applied topically in a cream formulation at 15% and 20% concentrations. In 2002 the FDA approved azelaic acid for the treatment of acne. For the most part, azelaic acid is recommended as an option for acne treatment (Source: International Journal of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 533–538), but there is also some research showing it to be effective for treatment of skin discolorations. For example, “The efficacy of 20% azelaic acid cream and 4% hydroquinone cream, both used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, against melasma was investigated in a 24-week, double-blind study with 329 women. Over the treatment period the azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results.... Severe side effects such as allergic sensitization or exogenous ochronosis were not observed with azelaic acid” (Source: International Journal of Dermatology, December 1991, pages 893–895). However, other research suggests that azelaic acid is more irritating than hydroquinone mixed with glycolic acid or kojic acid (Source: eMedicine Journal, www.emedicine.com, November 5, 2001). If you have had problems using hydroquinone along with tretinoin for skin lightening, then azelaic acid may be a consideration. See hydroquinone, tretinoin



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