Beauty Bulletin from Paula Begoun

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Lashes Falling Out? Find Out What You Can Do!

Problem: My lashes are falling out! Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening?

Solution: It is natural for lashes to shed and then regrow, but if you are noticing bald spots along your lash line, you may need to change some habits that might be making the condition worse. For example, don't wipe off eye makeup (or any makeup, for that matter) because wiping and pulling at the eyes can pull out lashes. Don't rub your eyes, even if they itch, especially when you are wearing mascara. Also, do not overuse mascara. I know it's tempting to have long, dramatically thick lashes, but the weight of the mascara (and what it takes to remove it later) can be too much for delicate lashes. Waterproof mascaras are the most difficult to remove and often take many lashes with them, so you might want to consider changing mascaras. It is unlikely that you are allergic to your mascara, but on the remote possibility that it may be the cause of the fallout, switch brands and see how that works.

By the way, you aren't using an eyelash curler are you? Over time, that consistent tugging can certainly pull out lashes. Another possibility is that non-cosmetic allergies could be playing a part in your eyelash dilemma. Your only recourse, if that turns out to be the cause, is to use antihistamines, or to eliminate from your environment the allergens causing the problem. For example, if you are allergic to the down in your pillows, use pillows with a synthetic fill. Hay fever can also cause the eye area to swell severely, damaging eyelashes, a problem that could be alleviated by using over-the-counter or prescription antihistamines.

Medically speaking, doctors refer to the loss of eyelashes as madarosis. According to ophthalmologist Dr. William Trattler, "While it may seem like mainly a cosmetic problem, the condition can be an indicator of something more serious, such as eye trauma, eyelid infections and even cancer of the eyelid. In addition, metabolic conditions such as hypothyroidism and pituitary insufficiency can cause madarosis" (Source: http://yourtotalhealth.ivillage.com/treatments-eyelash-loss.html).

It is also possible that the eyelash loss can be attributed to the presence of a mite called Demodex folliculorum. When it is active in small hair follicles and eyelash hair follicles it can consume epithelial cells, causing the hair follicle to become swollen, inflamed, and plugged. All of this can cause the eyelashes to fall out. Fortunately, this problem is easily treated once correctly diagnosed so consider seeing your dermatologist for an evaluation. (Source: eMedicine Journal, May 11, 2001, volume 2, number 5.)

If your loss of eyelash hair is chronic, you should see an eyelid specialist (called an oculoplastic surgeon) and have him carefully examine your eyelid to determine the cause of the madarosis.

Latisse, a prescription product from Allergan, has been proven to make eyelashes grow longer, thicker, and darker. It does this by means of a drug known as bimatoprost originally used for glaucoma. Use of this drug by glaucoma patients made it clear that one of its unexpected side effects was longer, thicker eyelashes. Topical application of a low dose of this drug (Latisse is applied once daily like a liquid eyeliner) has demonstrated impressive efficacy and safety, and was granted FDA approval in early 2009. Latisse isn't cheap (a 30-day supply costs $120) but you should see impressive results after 8-12 weeks of using it. Ongoing use is required to maintain results. Of course, don't ask your doctor for Latisse until you have been examined and other potential causes of eyelash loss have been ruled out or treated.

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Paulas Pick
Paula's Pick$$$ NUDE SKINCARE Intense Moisture Mask ($60 for 1.4 ounces). If you're keen on using a moisturizing mask for an occasional indulgence for dry, weather-beaten skin, this is a good one. It's exceptionally emollient and soothing thanks to its impressive blend of shea butter, fatty acids, and anti-irritants. A token amount of antioxidants are included to round out this overall intelligent formulation. The claims for this mask are, surprisingly, factual. However, keep in mind that how you care for your skin on a daily basis matters much more than what you do once per week. Note: This mask can be left on skin as long as necessary. If you have very dry skin not prone to breakouts, leaving this on overnight is recommended. Unlike most Nude Skincare products, this omits the fragrance chemicals known to cause irritation.

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Dear Paula
I recently saw a video on You Tube featuring DermTV.com's dermatologist Dr. Neil Schultz. In this video, he states that sunscreen should always be the first skin-care item applied. This advice conflicts with what I've learned about sunscreen from reading your books. I'd like to know what you think of his rationale.

Jeffery, via Facebook


Dear Jeffery,

Dermatologist Dr. Neil Schultz is just plain wrong. His recommendation that sunscreen should be the first skin-care product a person applies flies in the face of everything we know about sunscreens. Following his logic would mean that sunscreen should be applied before cleanser as well.

Dr. Schultz writes that sunscreen should go on before exfoliants and moisturizers. He also implies that antioxidants should only be used at night. The implication of antioxidants only being useful at night is not supported by any studies. Skin is confronted with free radical damage at all hours, so denying it an antioxidant boost in the morning doesn't make sense. If anything, antioxidants are needed MORE during the day because sun exposure is such a potent source of damage. There's also the issue that copious research has shown that antioxidants not only boost the efficacy of sunscreen actives but also help skin better defend itself against the oxidative damage sun exposure can cause, even when you're diligent about applying sunscreen.

But back to the issue of putting on sunscreen first. This dermatologist's argument is that in order for sunscreen to be effective it must "bind with the skin in a chemical reaction to make it able to absorb or block the sun rays". But how can it bind to skin if you are wiping it away or diluting it with other ingredients? You'd be "un-binding" it by applying several other products afterward. Hasn't this doctor noticed that it takes special sunscreen formulations to hold up when you sweat (even though you applied the sunscreen first and it must have binded to skin by his logic) and then because it becomes diluted and breaks down you have to reapply it? Skin-care products would do the same thing!

When sunscreen is applied as the last step in your skin-care routine, there's no chance of anything else you've applied causing dilution or preventing it from providing even coverage, which is what you want. Most sunscreen actives work by converting the sun's harmful radiation into harmless heat via a chemical reaction. In order for sunscreen to work, you don't want it to absorb too far into the skin because it needs to stay relatively near the surface to prevent the sun's rays from getting by. Applying several products over sunscreen is sort of like putting up an umbrella to stay dry after you're hair is already dripping wet. I really don't know what Dr. Schultz was thinking and he doesn't quote any research, but from every piece of research I've seen about sunscreen, I would not take his advice.

One more comment: you may be wondering about applying foundation over sunscreen. This can complicate matters but generally because foundation is designed to stay on the very surface of skin and not absorb it is less problematic. However, for the little bit of problem foundation can pose (and moisturizing foundations or tints definitely pose) there are steps you can take to minimize sunscreen dilution. Wait for the sunscreen to set before applying foundation, and, during application, make sure you're applying in smooth, downward motions. Don't apply in a rubbing or back-and-forth motion and don't use excess pressure. Of course, you can avoid the issue entirely by using a foundation rated SPF 15 or greater that contains the right UVA-protecting ingredients I've discussed at length. Secondary to that, you may also wish to set your foundation with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater.



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Ingredient Dictionary
wheat amino acids. A blend of amino acids from wheat protein after it has been broken down via hydrolysis. Most often used in hair-care products as a conditioning agent, but also found in skin-care products. There is limited research showing that wheat amino acids can penetrate the hair shaft (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 1997, pages 215–226); however, most likely the smaller molecular size of the amino acids can penetrate hair better than whole protein sources.



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