Beauty Bulletin from Paula Begoun
SHOPSKIN CAREMAKEUPLEARNON SALE
The Truth about Pore Size
By Bryan Barron and Paula Begoun


Many people struggle with and really hate having large pores. So do we! There are some facts about pore size you need to know so you can see a noticeable difference—and you also need to know what’s not possible.

For the most part pore size is genetically determined, and when that's the case, there isn’t much you can do to change that condition. But what about when pores become larger from factors not dependent on genetics? Now THAT’s where the right skin-care products can change things for the better. 

Here’s what can happen to make pores larger:

  • When a pore of any size has its follicle lining filled with excess dirt, excess oil (it’s actually wax inside the pore but "oily” on the surface), and dead skin cells, the pore swells and, you guessed it, looks more apparent.
  • Even worse is the wax on the surface of the pore can oxidize, which causes it to turn black and, voila, you get a blackhead.
  • The two points above are the main reasons why women with oily skin often complain of having large pores (the excess oil is causing their pores to enlarge beyond their genetically determined size).

The solution?

  • If your pores have become enlarged due to trapped debris and excess oil production, you need to take steps to remove the debris and restore a normal flow of oil from the pore lining on to the surface.
  • A well formulated BHA product (active ingredient: salicylic acid) is a brilliant way to do that. The salicylic acid penetrates the pore lining, dislodging what’s trapped inside and causing your pores to enlarge.
  • Once the trapped contents are free and with ongoing use of a BHA product to keep obstructions to a minimum, your pores will go back to their regular size. All together now: Woo hoo!

What else can you do?
It may surprise you to learn that certain products with cell-communicating ingredients (think retinol and niacinamide) can also help to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. No, they won’t make your natural pore size shrink to that of a baby’s, but cell-communicating ingredients can “talk” to other cells and convince them to maintain a normal pore lining. This can also help you see a reduction in pore size!

Many Paula’s Choice customers have commented that our Skin Balancing Toner is a helpful addition to their skin-care routine due to its ability to help minimize the appearance of pores. When used with a well formulated BHA exfoliant and water-soluble cleanser as part of a comprehensive skin-care routine, you don’t have to live with enlarged pores, and that’s great news! Of course there are other products we recommend on Beautypedia.com but the customer reviews for this toner are too good to not share!

For stubborn clogged pores and blackheads it can help to physically remove the plug. You can do this yourself if you're careful and don't overdo it or you can have an esthetician do this for you. Find out how to do this here.

Lastly, do keep in mind that pore size and how your pores are perceived by others is never as horrible as you may think. First, other than your esthetician, it’s doubtful anyone is examining your pores with the same intensity that you are (well, except for Paula who uses a 10X magnifying mirror but up close and in person you’d never think that Paula has large pores).

Second, everyone has pores and without a great skin-care routine, everyone will experience some degree of pore clogging. Even those with naturally small pores and dry skin may find their skin has small, white bumps due to a buildup of dead skin cells in the pore lining. For someone with dry skin and clogged pores, once again a well formulated BHA product (preferably in a lotion base) is a brilliant option.

Now that you know the truth about pore size, you can take steps to make sure your pores stay clean and free of the debris that causes them to become enlarged. Go ahead—let the truth set your clogged pores free!


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Product Reviews

Good$$$ BOSCIA Restorative Day Moisture Cream SPF 15 ($48 for 1 ounce). This daytime moisturizer with an in-part avobenzone sunscreen is packaged in an airless jar to preserve the efficacy of the plant ingredients and antioxidants it contains. Its silky, slightly thick texture is best for normal to dry skin. Best of all, the fragrance-free formula contains an impressive blend of skin-identical ingredients, emollients, cell-communicating ingredients, and soothing plant extracts. An intriguing ingredient in this product that deserves further comment is magnolia bark extract. It seems that magnolia bark contains several chemical constituents that have a cortisone-like effect. In theory, this should help calm skin and reduce signs of sensitivity, though bear in mind that the active ingredients in this daytime moisturizer with sunscreen preclude its recommendation for those with sensitive skin (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the preferred active ingredients for this skin type). The research on magnolia bark is related to ingestion rather than topical application, but theoretically its soothing benefits should be applicable to your skin, too.

OK $$$ BREMENN RESEARCH LABS Upper Eyelid Lifter ($59 for 0.5 ounce). Before we discuss this product in detail, you need to know that it cannot lift skin anywhere on the face, including the eyelid. The claims are completely without proof. Perhaps even more revealing is that the ingredients in this product are not unique or special and can be found in lots of products, including others from Bremenn Research Labs that don’t claim to be a miracle for your lids. Even if this product did contain special ingredients, the fact is that once eyelid skin begins to droop or sag, there are absolutely no skin-care products that can fix the problem. Your wisest recourse is to not waste your money on products like this, but rather to save up your money over time so you can afford what really works: cosmetic surgery or cosmetic corrective procedures such as the CO2 Fraxel laser (SmartXide). Wasting money on useless skin-care products is not uplifting in the least.

Poor ARTISTRY BY AMWAY Body Blends Accent Lip Balm ($15). This sheer tinted lip balm has a comfortably emollient texture based around non-fragrant plant oils. It's about as close as one can get to a 100% natural lip balm, even though Amway isn't making this claim. The problem? Peppermint oil is included so lips feel a tingling, cooling sensation. Unfortunately, that sensation signals needless irritation, and makes this tinted lip balm in stick form impossible to recommend.

For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. It features over 40,000 detailed product reviews for only $24.95/year.


Dear Paula

Dear Paula,

I am 56 years old and obviously concerned about wrinkles. I still have a greasy t-zone and in the summer, even when I use your Extra Care Non Greasy Sunscreen SPF 45 my skin is a grease pit at the end of the day!  I want to be able to use sunscreen every day of my life without adding extra products.  I don't like the white, zinc oxide-based sunscreens even though those have a matte finish.  I use Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Cleanser, CLEAR Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner Regular Strength (love it). Also, because I want antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, etc, I use your RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer during the day and RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with the RESIST skin lightener at night.  I need to somehow balance my 56-year-old wrinkles with my oily t zone in the summer as well as winter.  I am so confused! 

Linda, via email

Dear Linda,

I think you fell into the trap of selecting emollient products thinking that there’s an association between dryness and wrinkles and you’re using too many products over your normal to oily skin. Here are my suggestions:

That’s it! These changes should make your oily areas much less frustrating to deal with and you won’t have to compromise on sun protection. For longer days outdoors when the Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 45 is needed, apply that liberally, allow to set, and finish with a dusting of my Healthy Finish Pressed Powder SPF 15 in your t-zone.


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Ingredient Dictionary

L-Carnitine. Also known as carboxylic acid, it is often erroneously labeled an amino acid (which it is not). It has been claimed to have miraculous (albeit unsubstantiated) properties for enhancing the metabolization of fat when taken orally. There is research in animal studies showing it has anti-aging benefits when taken orally (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, April 2002, pages 133–166). However, there is no known benefit for skin when it is applied topically in skin-care products, though it may have antioxidant properties.


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