No question about it, hair needs to be protected from the sun! Sun damage destroys hair by breaking down the bonds that keep its structure intact. Where brushing and combing chip away at the outer cuticle, energy from the sun destroys the interior of hair, which explains why hair color fades with sun exposure. Yet despite this desperate need for protection, sunscreens in hair-care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and styling products are nothing less than a waste of time and money. Unfortunately, there is no way that these formulations can provide adequate sun protection for the hair because shampoos and conditioners are meant to be rinsed out, and consequently there is no way to know how much, if any, sunscreen remains on the hair. In fact, given the water-solubility of most sunscreens, they are probably rinsed away almost immediately. Creating water-resistant sunscreens is the logical solution, but no one has come up with a version that holds up. Moreover, sunscreen ingredients do not adhere well to hair—what it would take to get those ingredients to cling would make hair feel coated, look greasy, and be almost impossible to style.

Leave-in hair-care products that contain sunscreen are a better bet, but only slightly. Although the sunscreen's ability to stay on the hair shaft increases when it's included in a leave-in product (that isn't rinsed off), sunscreen ingredients degrade or are removed with heat from a blow dryer, flat iron, or curling iron. Even brushing the hair can remove sunscreen from the hair shaft, sort of like how rubbing the skin (such as when you towel off after swimming) removes sunscreen.

Hair-care products are not allowed to have SPF numbers because the FDA does not consider hair-care products with sunscreen safe or reliable for sun protection. And without an SPF number (or even if there is an SPF number, which is illegal), there is no way to determine how long the hair shaft will be protected, or indeed if any sunscreen is left behind at all. If you don't know the SPF, you have no idea if the product is an SPF 2, SPF 8, or SPF 15. Moreover, with the skin we know that sunscreen must be reapplied after swimming or long exposure to the sun, but what about the hair? After two hours of bike riding, are you going to reapply your leave-in conditioner with sunscreen and get your hair gooped up all over again?

The prominent SPF rating sometimes seen on hair-care products may lead consumers to believe they finally have a product that will protect their hair from the sun but sadly, this is a ruse and not helpful for protecting your hair. It turns out the directions for such products are carefully worded, referring to the sunscreen protecting the scalp (and not the hair). Overlooking this caveat will likely go unnoticed by many who will assume these products serve as a legitimate sunscreen for hair, but that is not the case.

I'm not saying that sunscreen ingredients in very controlled situations can't protect hair from sun damage, because they can. There are studies in which a swatch of hair is covered with sunscreen ingredients, then placed under UVA/UVB light, and after a period of time measured for deterioration. The sunscreen ingredients absolutely prevented damage. But that kind of study doesn't reflect how the product is actually used by consumers. Who is going to slather sunscreen on their hair then just leave it, doing nothing else to their hair afterward? Until there is a solution to the application and adherence issues, it is a huge mistake to rely on sunscreen in hair-care products. Until the FDA gives its SPF blessing to hair-care products meant for the hair, not the scalp, wear a hat when spending long periods of time in the sun. That's the only real way to prevent sun damage to your hair.



$$$ AVEDA Dry Remedy Shampoo ($24.00 for 6.7 ounces) Aveda’s latest hair-care options are debuting with eyebrow-raising price tags, and the Dry Remedy line is no exception. While the products are worthwhile, the price tag isn’t and there are far less expensive products available that provide the same benefits. A good alternative would be Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo ($7.49 for 13.5 ounces).  If the cost doesn’t make your hair stand on end, this is a very good moisturizing shampoo that produces a frothy lather and treats hair to several conditioning agents, including glycerin and plant oils. It is indeed suitable for dry to very dry hair, but only if it is normal to coarse or thick; this shampoo can be too rich for fine or thin hair, though it’s an option for occasional use. It does contain fragrance chemicals that can cause scalp irritation if not rinsed thoroughly.



Dear Paula,

I have very oily skin and I am totally revamping my skin-care routine (no alcohol, no irritants, gentle, no waxy formulas, etc.) due to your Web site and books.

I have an urgent question about treatment with Retin-A, which I am using (again) at a doctor’s recommendation. I tried Retin-A  twice before, and both times I began to get little scars (pock marks—like large pores, but bigger and worse) on my skin (the first time 12 years ago; the second time about 8 years ago). Both times the doctors dismissed my idea that the Retin-A could cause the scarring, and so I tried the treatment a second time. Now I have many little pock marks on my skin and they seem to be increasing in number. I didn’t have any before my treatments with Retin-A and I had no history of terrible acne to cause them, just persistent, low-grade acne and oily skin since I was a teenager. Doctors would see me through the years and say my skin wasn’t bad enough to worry about (I am 49 now). What do you think about the possibility of a scarring connection for some patients using Retin-A? In my case, could the increasing number now be due to the thinning of the skin after using Retin-A, combined with the use of exfoliating scrubs on my skin (not while using Retin-A)? I have a new doctor now who also pooh-poohs any connection between my pock marks and the Retin-A.

Here is some background: My skin has been basically clear for years now, with one or two spots breaking out around my monthly cycle, but those spots have lately begun to be rather severe and leave little depressed marks or discoloration afterwards. Also, my skin continues to be very oily all the time.  I am very wary of using AHAs since I had such a bad experience with Retin-A and the two seem to be related. I am now taking a low dosage of tetracycline to stop my skin from breaking out before my period. It works fine, but I am wary of taking tetracycline long-term. I feel as if it’s too late in my history to try Accutane because my skin is already pretty scarred, so why run the risk? But then again, I don’t want my skin to keep looking worse.

Emily, via email

Dear Emily,

I agree with your dermatologists that there is no precedent anywhere for Retin-A causing scarring or depressions in the skin. Ongoing use of Retin-A (the active ingredient is tretinoin) has been shown to increase collagen production, which plumps skin, and inhibit the breakdown of substances in skin that generate collagen and elastin (Sources: Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica, January-February 2008, pages 85-91; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2004, pages 191-201). What could have happened is that the change in your skin texture from using Retin-A made the skin appear more scarred because it revealed layers of skin that may have been hidden by layers of built-up sun-damaged skin. Remember, sun-damaged skin is thicker than normal skin and has more pigment, which could have been camouflaging some of the scarring. Perhaps your best option to deal with the scarring at this point is laser resurfacing or a series of chemical peels.

AHAs are not the same thing as Retin-A; however, because they both change the thickness of the outer layer of skin the same effect can result.

I understand your concern about Accutane, but for the four- to six-month treatment, you could prevent further breakouts, thus balancing the risk of scarring, especially considering that the new breakouts you’ve been getting, as you approach menopause, are deeper and for some reason (probably due to the change in skin texture) more likely to scar. It isn’t too late to begin Accutane treatment (especially given your history of persistently oily skin) but be sure to discuss the pros and cons with your dermatologist, including your agreement to use birth control during treatment.

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