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from Paula Begoun, The Cosmetics Cop
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How to Find the Perfect Powder

Powder is one of the most versatile and practical makeup products available. Truly one of the best makeup multi-taskers you can imagine! A great loose or pressed powder can do all of the following:

• Set makeup.
• Add sun protection (when it includes sunscreen).
• Hide minor imperfections.
• Absorb oily shine.
• Even out skin tone.
• Create a smooth canvas that lasts all day long.
• Allows for on-the-go touch-ups.
• Function as a foundation.

Despite these qualities, you must keep in mind that not all powders are created equal, and that the information you read about them on beauty blogs and in fashion magazines is often out-and-out crazy! In testing hundreds of pressed and loose powders and reviewing them on Beautypedia, we've gone through the good, the bad, and the ugly—to develop guidelines to help you find the perfect powder for your skin type and for creating a flawless finish.

What to Look For:

• A silky texture that blends on super smooth without accentuating fine lines or looking “dusty” on your skin.
• Lightweight, soft feel that blends on evenly without looking heavy or chalky.
• Portable and mess-free application. (Pressed powders are ideal for this.)
• Easy to pick up with a powder brush, which means it shouldn't crumble or fly away when you swirl your brush in it.
• A brush that picks up just the right amount; it shouldn't pick up too little or too much powder. Too little and you won't get enough to your face; too much and it'll look overdone.
• Neutral shades with a natural beige, tan, rich brown, or ebony finish.
• Matte options are generally preferred, but a subtle hint of shine in your powder can add a soft glow. Too much shimmer, however, can end up looking greasy and unnatural. (Always check in natural daylight to see how much shimmer is really there.)
• If oily skin is an issue, look for oil-absorbing ingredients, such as talc, silica, or bismuth oxychloride. Avoid powder with mica because it adds shine.
• For dry skin, use a powder with a satin-like (almost creamy) finish rather than a matte, dry-finish version. Rubbing a good amount of powder between two fingers is a good trick for determining its feel and finish. If it doesn't feel silky and creamy, it isn't.
• Reliable broad-spectrum sun protection with an SPF 15 or higher, and with at least one of the following listed as an active ingredient: avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or Tinosorb—a wonderful way to add sun protection throughout the day. When paired with a daytime moisturizer or foundation with sunscreen, powder with SPF helps ensure you are protected from the sun's harmful rays. Just don't rely on it as your sole source of SPF because you probably won't apply it liberally enough to achieve the level of sun protection needed without it looking cakey.

What to Avoid:

• Anything that feels uncomfortably dry on your skin is too absorbent for you.
• A high-shimmer powder will make oily skin look shinier, and powders with too much glitter look unsophisticated on any skin type.
• Don't fall for the hype that mineral makeup is superior to regular powder—they're the same thing (mineral makeup is NOT chemical free)! Check out this article to find out the truth about mineral makeup.
• Steer clear of unflattering hues of pink, peach, orange, ash, or rose undertones. Powders must match your skin color, just like your foundation does. If you go darker, you will look like you are wearing a mask.
• Toss out the powder puff or sponge that often come with powders; use a large, soft, dense powder brush instead. Make sure to tap excess powder off the brush to avoid applying too much.
• Watch out for powders with high concentrations (greater than 15%) of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. These ingredients have an opaque, reflective quality that can make your face look lighter than your neck in photos.
• Don't waste your money! There is no reason to splurge on expensive powders when there are equally brilliant (or better) powders available at drugstore prices. You can't test the ones at the drugstore, but if you follow our recommendations on Beautypedia, we can help you find the best available.

Discover Our Favorite Powders:
For a fail-proof pressed powder with sunscreen, try Paula's Choice Healthy Finish Pressed Powder SPF 15 ($14.95). And don't forget, you can always refer to Beautypedia for additional top-rated powders and more!

Paula's Online Radio Show
This Week's Topic: 6 Skin-Care Products that Make Wrinkles Worse!
LIVE Every Thursday at 6 p.m. PST/9 p.m. EST

Don't miss this myth-busting show exposing skin-care products that are actually doing more harm than good! Tune in as Paula reveals the top offenders that may be lurking in your products and what you should use instead. Call in with questions for any of your beauty concerns, and WIN Paula's Choice products when we take your call!

Listen Online (previous shows and transcripts available too!). To listen live and ask Paula questions, call 347.426.3783.

Paula's Product Pick
Paula's Pick
NYX COSMETICS Soft Matte Lip Cream ($5.99). There's so much to love about this unique matte lipstick! Although its finish is very matte, the texture is slightly creamy and easy to apply with a wand applicator. Once on your lips, it maintains a slightly slick feel that keeps lips comfortable. This makes Soft Matte Lip Cream a real find because dryness is often the biggest strike against matte lipsticks. The stain is impressive, too, meaning that you can count on hours of wear. The 10 shades of this lightly scented lip color are exceptional, ranging from soft pinks to deep plums.

Caution: Do not over-apply this product because it will lose its beautiful soft finish and become flaky.

Pros:
• Imparts a lovely, true matte finish.

• Maintains a slightly slick feel that keeps lips comfortable.

• Wand applicator makes precise application easy.

• Good stain means that color lasts for hours.

• Exceptional shade selection.

• A little goes a long way, making this a great value!

Cons:
• Applying too much can cause a flaky, uneven appearance.


Dear Paula

Dear Paula,

I periodically get huge, red, cystic-like sores on my inner thighs. They're very painful. I have questioned my doctor about this and was told that I needed to lose weight because these bumps were caused by rubbing (friction) when I walk. However, I get them on my belly as well (though not as bad). They almost seem like boils…sometimes they have a head but they're always red and painful. I have squeezed them in the past, which relieves the pressure but the area remains red for a very long time and the bumps sometimes recur. Do you know what these are? And are there topical products that will help?

Racael, via email

Dear Racael,

Based on what you told me, I suspect you're dealing with boils. Medically known as furuncles, boils begin in the hair follicle, so anywhere you have hair (or a follicle to produce hair), there is the possibility of a boil if a certain strain of bacteria— Staphylococcus aureus— is present . Boils are not caused by being overweight or from friction; they result from a bacterial infection in the hair follicle. Anyone can get them, regardless of weight or gender.

A boil begins as a small, firm bump that becomes larger and red over time. As the body fights the infection, boils can become painful. Although you should see a physician to confirm what I suspect (but not the doctor who seemingly brushed off your concern with a comment about losing weight), you can be fairly certain that boils are what you're dealing with if, in addition to what you described, the cyst-like sores feel hot and if squeezing causes a pus-like fluid to be released. This fluid is part of how your body handles the infection, so in this instance squeezing a boil before it comes to a head on its own will prolong the healing time and lead to the lasting red marks you've noticed.

Treating boils involves oral or topical antibiotics that kill the bacteria causing the problem. In your case you may want to ask a doctor about daily use of low-dose antibiotics to get the bacterial infection under control. Boils tend to recur if the underlying bacteria causing the infection isn't completely eradicated. You can also consider applying StaphASeptic, a medicated topical gel whose active ingredient kills staph bacteria. Ask your pharmacist for this product or you can order it online from drugstore.com.

 

All About Ingredients
chamomile: Several plant species, including Matricaria recutita, Chamomilla recutita, and Matricaria chamomilla. Chamomile tea, brewed from dried flower heads, has been used traditionally for medicinal purposes. The main constituents of the flowers include phenolic compounds, primarily the flavonoids apigenin, quercetin, patuletin, luteolin, and their glucosides. The principal components of the essential oil extracted from the flowers are the terpenoids α-bisabolol and its oxides and azulenes, including chamazulene.

Chamomile has moderate antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, and significant anti-platelet activity in vitro. Animal model studies indicate it may have potent anti-inflammatory action, some antimutagenic and cholesterol-lowering activities, as well as antispasmotic and anxiolytic effects. However, human studies are limited, and clinical trials examining the purported sedative properties of chamomile tea are absent. Adverse reactions to chamomile, consumed as a tisane or applied topically, have been reported among those with allergies to other plants in the daisy family (Sources: Phytotherapy Research, July 2006, pages 519–618; www.herbmed.org; European Journal of Drug Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics, October-December 1999, pages 303–308; and Planta Medica, October 1994, pages 410–413).

Have you checked out our NEW Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary? It is now organized so you can search from over 1,600 cosmetics ingredients, by category and rating. Find out which ingredients are worth looking for, which are controversial, and which are a problem for all skin types!

    Customer Feedback: Simply the Best for My Hair!    
 

I've been searching for a conditioner that works well with my hair for over 20 years. I have no scalp sensitivities, dandruff, etc., but I use Smooth Finish Conditioner because it is simply the best for my hair
—S.B.A

Read More Reviews About Paula's Choice Smooth Finish Conditioner!



 
 
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