    
Why my skin? Why another blemish or blackhead? Why can’t I have smooth, poreless skin? Why me? Believe me, I know this feeling.
Why do you suddenly, at the age of 28 or 48, have blemishes? Why haven’t you outgrown the blemishes and oily skin that have plagued you since you were 14, and that at age 35 are worse than ever? Why, at 40, do you have incessant blackheads and breakouts that won’t go away no matter what you do, and you’ve done everything? Why do you still have acne when you’re 18 and have tried oral antibiotics, Retin-A, sulfur masks, topical antibiotics, and every cosmetic skin-care routine imaginable? These are great questions and I understand them well.
Regardless of how old you are, breakouts and oily skin are upsetting, and anyone can be a victim! The main culprits in all these scenarios are hormones, because hormones are what affect oil production, and because their levels fluctuate at different times of life.
Breaking out is definitely most prevalent during adolescence. Statistics suggest that three out of four teenagers have problems with breakouts and various forms of acne. That isn’t surprising when you consider that adolescence is a time of colossal hormonal changes that stimulate sebaceous (oil) glands and increase sebum production, which in turn increases the chances for breakouts. But acne can happen at any age. More than 40% of all women will experience some form of acne. (Sources: Journal of Pediatric and Adolescent Gynecology, August 2008, pages 171–176; and Journal of European Dermatology and Venereology, November 2001, pages 541–545.) It is far from being relegated to our teen years!
Anything that can raise hormone levels—stress, the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, birth-control pills, or certain medications—such as corticosteroids and lithium—can act as a trigger. Specific foods are not responsible for breakouts, but an individual can have allergies to specific foods which may result in blemishes. There is also speculation that foods with hormone additives (specifically poultry and beef), iodine in food (shellfish), or fluoride in toothpaste may aggravate blemishes.
There’s no question that hormone activity is the main thing responsible for oily skin and breakouts. When hormones gush, blemishes can flare, but hormones alone are not enough to create this annoying skin malady. For some unknown reason(s), something goes wrong in the oil gland, blocking the natural flow of oil. Theories about what causes acne generally focus on a genetic predisposition that creates either a defective oil gland, a malfunctioning pore lining that doesn’t shed properly, or oil (sebum) that itself is in some way abnormal (too thick or irritating to the skin). In real life, you have to address most, if not all, of these issues if you want to reduce the chances of breakouts.
There are many theories about why some people have more severe cases of acne than others. Some suggest that it’s increased levels of male hormones, while others say that a genetic abnormality of the oil gland is the culprit. Hypersensitivity to P. acnes may also account for the great variation in the severity of acne (Source: Dermatology, 1998, volume 196, issue 1, pages 80–81). There is even research showing that the actual fatty-acid components of the oil gland may be responsible. Most likely it’s a combination of all these factors that causes the differences between those with mild or severe breakouts, and so the best approach is to deal with them one by one and through experimentation eliminate the sources of the problem.
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 ZO SKIN HEALTH Ommerse Daily Renewal Crème ($95 for 1.7 ounces). This is a very good moisturizer for normal to dry skin. Housed in airless jar packaging, the cream includes retinol along with several antioxidants, anti-irritants, and cell-communicating ingredients. With the exception of sunscreen, it covers all the bases in terms of providing an impressive assortment of ingredients research has shown will improve skin’s appearance, generate collagen, and keep skin healthy. The only drawback is the inclusion of gardenia flower, which has no significant benefit for skin, but its fragrance poses only a slight risk of irritation. Interestingly, one type of gardenia is believed to play a role in skin lightening, but the research didn’t involve the species of gardenia that’s present in this moisturizer (Source: Basic & Clinical Pharmacology & Toxicology, July 2008, pages 888–893). Although the price is hefty and there are less expensive options, this is still an impressive product if you feel compelled to spend more than necessary on a facial moisturizer.
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I was thrilled to see Latisse arrive on the market! It seems Latisse is advertised in every beauty magazine I pick up these days. I would love to try the product but I am a bit apprehensive about the price and also that it can change the pigment of the eye. So, having said that here are my questions: Is there a product on the market that I can buy that helps my lashes grow and does not require me to see a doctor and pay $125.00. My 18-year-old daughter would like to use the product but I am nervous it will change the color of her amazing green eyes. Any thoughts on this product?
Shawn, via email
Dear Shawn,
I'd stick with Latisse. Although it’s true that there are other products out there that contain the same type of drug Latisse does and don’t require a doctor visit, they cost just as much if not more than Latisse, so you're not coming out ahead. Plus, Allergan, the pharmaceutical company that developed Latisse based on their glaucoma drug Lumigan, did due diligence in terms of pre-market safety and drug testing—something the cosmetic companies selling lash growth products didn't do. The bottom line is that we know Latisse works as claimed because Allergan had to prove this in order to gain FDA approval. That’s a major difference between a drug (which Latisse is) and a cosmetic (products such as Marini Lash or Revitalash).
The risk of iris color change is minimal provided you take care to not get Latisse in the eye. This side effect is much more common in those using this type of drug in eyedrop form (where it's prescribed for treating glaucoma). That said, even though it’s small, there is still a risk, and the change in iris color, if it occurs, is permanent (Source: Expert Opinion on Drug Safety, January 2007, pages 45-52). It is up to your daughter to decide if longer, darker, thicker lashes without mascara are worth the small chance her iris may darken. If I were you, I’d encourage my daughter to experiment with the mascaras I’ve reviewed favorably before committing to Latisse. Once you begin using Latisse, ongoing usage is required to maintain results. |
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Best Mask for Dry Skin
I always had oily, acne-prone skin, then my face suddenly changed. I was suffering from dryness that other, more expensive products were not helping. Started using the Skin Recovery line, and voila- renewed skin. I use this weekly as a rinse-off mask, and it works wonders to moisturize my dry skin. Also, it is supremely gentle; I am a fair-skinned redhead and am allergic to A LOT of ingredients. This doesn't irritate my skin at all. Thanks for this well-priced product line, Paula!
—Liz
Great for Delicate Skin
I am fair-skinned & my skin has always been a bit delicate. In my mid-40's it became so sensitive/allergic that I was reacting to every product I tried. My symptoms were rough, dry patches on my lips, around my mouth & eye area. I finally ordered several of Paula's Skin Recovery products. I began using the Hydrating Treatment Mask as a daily moisturizer & my skin immediately started to heal. Within a week or so it was back to a healthy texture, feel & look. Thank you for saving my skin when I was at my wit's end!
—Jolene L.
Mask That Does Wonders
Ever since I started using this mask, people are asking me what I'm doing to my face. I'm blackhead prone but this has completely cleared up everything. I'm 50 and have large pores. I'm oily and flaky as well. Drying out your skin too much can actually clog your pores. This mask seems to do wonders. Can't explain it but I ain’t giving it up anytime soon. I put it on very last at night and leave it on all night. I also put it on in the morning a few hours before I shower. Wow, you would pay soooooo much money for this product at a department store. Thanks again Paula!!!
—Judy
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resveratrol. A potent polyphenolic antioxidant that is abundant in the skin of red grapes and, therefore, in red wine (unfortunately for some of us, not in white wine). Resveratrol has been reported in numerous studies to be one of the more potent natural chemopreventive agents inhibiting the cellular processes associated with tumor development, including initiation, promotion, and progression. It also has significant anti-inflammatory properties. Conversely, there is research showing it to be associated with cell death when applied topically if skin is exposed to sunlight. When resveratrol is fed to elderly mice they show a marked reduction in signs of aging through out the body. However, despite claims about resveratrol being the fountain of youth, mice did not live longer when treated with resveratrol beginning at 12 months of age. (Sources: Phytotherapy Research, May 2009, Epublication; Anticancer Research, September–October 2004, pages 2783–2840; Medicinal Chemistry, November 2005, pages 629–633; Molecular Nutrition and Food Research, May 2005, pages 405–430; Antioxidant Redox Signal, December 2001, pages 1041–1064; and Mutation Research, Genetic Toxicology and Environmental Mutagenesis, September 2001, pages 171–180; and Current Medicinal Chemistry, 2008, Volume 15, Number 19, pages 1997-1998).
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Expert Reviews, Beautiful Results
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