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Women of Color Total Skin Care System
This small line of skin-care products is sold exclusively at Walgreens stores. It was designed by Beverly Hills plastic surgeon Dr. Jan Adams, an African American who claims to have spent the past 20 years "focusing on the problems of today's women of color." He has even written a book, Everything Women of Color Should Know About Cosmetic Surgery, to help women of color navigate the many options and potential problems (primarily pigmentation issues) unique to those with darker skin tones. While he is not a cosmetics chemist, you'd at least think that with his pedigree Dr. Adams's skin-care products would be well-formulated. Sadly, as is so often the case with doctor-designed lines, the products fall short of even basic expectations. For example, none of the Women of Color skin-care products are fragrance-free, meaning they can be a cause for potential irritation and sensitizing reactions. What's even more disappointing is that the sunscreen in this line lacks the UVA-protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or avobenzone. And then there's the complete lack of products to address acne. Overall, this line leaves me wondering what this doctor could have possibly been thinking.
The bottom line is that not one of these products contains ingredients that are
in any way uniquely helpful or suited to women of color. If anything, most of
the products reviewed below will cause more problems than they could ever hope
to alleviate. It's not that there aren't physiological differences between
lighter and darker skin tones because there are. It's just that these
differences have not been shown to have any significance when it comes to daily
skin care (Source: IFSCC Magazine, January/March 2006, pages 3-13). When it
comes to skin, the same elements—both basic and advanced—are critical to
maintaining its health and appearance. Regardless of one's ethnic background,
most of the products below do not meet that goal.
 Facial Cleanser ($7.99 for 3.25 ounces)
is a standard, water-soluble cleanser that won't brighten skin any more than most cleansers. It is an option for normal to oily skin, but contains several AHA and BHA ingredients, making it potentially problematic for use around the eyes. Neither these ingredients nor the many vitamins in this product benefit skin because when they're included in a cleanser, they are rinsed away before they can provide a benefit. I suppose it looks good to list these interesting ingredients on the label, but for the health of the skin this cleanser has the same gentle detergent cleansing agents found in countless other cleansers, and it is not in any way special for African-American skin.
 Microdermabrasion Treatment ($11.99 for 2 ounces)
is comparable to a microdermabrasion treatment in name only. Most scrubs that claim to be at-home microdermabrasion treatments contain the same particles used in the salon version, namely aluminum oxide. This one contains walnut-shell powder as its abrasive agent, an option that was popular in the '80s and is not the best option for a scrub, at least not better than baking soda or a washcloth. If you are interested in "microdermabrasion"-type scrubs there is no reason to consider this one over the at-home options from Neutrogena, Olay, L'Oreal, or Youthful Essence.
Face & Body Lotion SPF 30 ($11.99 for 3.25 ounces)
does not contain the UVA-protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or avobenzone, and is not recommended for skin of any color. Even with sufficient UVA protection, the base formula of this product, while creamy, lacks any state-of-the-art ingredients.
 Night Replenishing Cream ($14.99 for 2 ounces)
is a moisturizer that has potential for normal to dry skin, but there are too many missteps here for me to recommend it over other superior formulas that are available at the drugstore. Not only will the jar packaging compromise the effectiveness of the few antioxidants it contains, but the product is also fragranced with essential oils of geranium, lavender, and rosemary—all of which can potentially irritate skin. The amount of these oils is minimal, but they shouldn't be there at all, especially in a product that is sanctioned by a doctor.
Skin Lightener ($14.99 for 2 ounces)
comes in packaging that helps keep the 2% hydroquinone stable, and the long-standing track record of this skin-lightening ingredient makes this a smart choice for the type of stubborn pigment discolorations common to African- and Asian-American skin tones. This would have been an excellent skin-lightening option for those with normal to dry skin, but the grapefruit oil in this product makes it a huge problem. Not only is grapefruit oil potentially irritating when applied to skin, it can also cause a phototoxic reaction—not something you'd want to deal with along with skin discolorations (Source: www.naha.org/articles/grapefruit_oil_supply_situation.htm).
Dermalogica
 Super Rich Repair ($75 for 1.7 ounces)
should entice anyone with dry to very dry skin who prefers to shop for skin-care products at a spa or salon. Billed as the company's "most intense, super-concentrated cream," Super Rich Repair is indeed an emollient, oil-rich moisturizer. It is packaged so that the effectiveness of the antioxidants in the product isn't compromised, but they are present only in a very small amount. (In fact, there's more preservative than state-of-the-art ingredients, a ratio that isn't good news, considering the premium price of this moisturizer.) Another issue is the inclusion of several essential oils, including sandalwood, eucalyptus, cedarwood, and geranium, which all work in opposition to the anti-irritants, and that means the two types of ingredients cancel each other out. All in all, this moisturizer will certainly make dry to very dry skin feel better, but for the money and because of the needless inclusion of fragrant irritants, you'd be better off considering the state-of-the-art (and non-jar packaged) formulas from Clinique, Skinceuticals, or Prescriptives.
Urban Decay
Surreal Skin Mineral Makeup ($28)
marks Urban Decay's attempt to bring their brand of street credibility to the overhyped category of mineral makeup. This loose powder foundation is packaged in a jar with a sponge affixed to the cap. Once opened, the powder is shaken onto the sponge, where it poofs out and allows you to blend it over your skin. The formula is based on mica and bismuth oxychloride (the same as all mineral foundations/powders), and this product shares the same traits as most mineral makeups, namely, shine and a dry finish that gets uncomfortably dry as day turns into night. Urban's version has a decidedly light texture, and all of the five neutral-to-yellow-toned shades are attractive, but you have to tolerate a sparkling effect and the drawbacks of mineral makeup to really enjoy this product. Mineral makeup is not a good choice if you have any degree of dry skin because the ingredients absorb oil (and your moisturizer), making dry skin drier. For someone with very oily skin the makeup typically separates on your skin and pools into pores, which is as unbecoming as it sounds.
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Are Wrinkles Wounds?
Many skin-care products claim to use wound-healing ingredients to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, which begs the question, are wrinkles wounds? If the answer is yes, then incorporating wound-healing ingredients into these products can make sense. The answer, of course, is not that simple. Wrinkles and wounds are both complex occurrences that actually have very little in common with each other.
The major difference between wrinkles and wounds (which is actually pretty major) is that wrinkles do not happen overnight. Instead they appear over time and begin to become visible about 35 to 40 years after we are born. They result from unprotected sun exposure, genetics, fat depletion, bone loss, loss of estrogen, and from repetitive muscle movements (facial expressions), and the cumulative destruction of collagen and elastin. In combination with the body's diminishing capacity to produce healthy skin cells as it ages, the result is wrinkles.
Wounds, on the other hand, happen instantaneously. Once you experience a cut, burn, scratch, or abrasion of any kind, a wound appears almost immediately. In response to this damage the skin swiftly and, more often than not, efficiently reacts, responding with a seamless cascade of biological events intended to facilitate rapid healing, prevent blood loss, and control infection. With wounds, it's urgent for the body to repair itself quickly.
Where wounds and wrinkles do share some similarities has more to do with some of the skin's basic composition and interactions. For example, fibroblasts are cells that produce skin cells and collagen. Depending on the type of skin damage, whether from a wound or from sun exposure, fibroblasts can alter how they behave in order to generate the appropriate components to expedite healing and replace the "injured" structures. What the research shows is that, as we age, the fibroblasts produce less normal collagen and fewer skin cells than they used to, and definitely not enough of either.
Other similarities between wrinkles and wounds involve an understanding of what goes on in skin cells. Here, different elements, such as hormones and growth factors, play a role in producing significant amounts of collagen and new skin cells. There is no question that reduced estrogen levels—whether brought about by menopause or hysterectomy—have a detrimental effect on skin. The same is true for age-related decreases in the production of the substances called growth factors.
One question asked by those investigating wound-healing and wrinkling is: Can topical or systemic use of estrogen treatment or growth factors improve the way the skin repairs itself? The results of these studies, with the possible exception of those on diabetic wounds, have been disappointing. Insight into the wound-healing process indicates that estrogen and growth factors interact during wound-healing in a sequential and orderly way. Improving the process of wound-healing may require different clinical designs and/or the use of these factors in a precisely timed sequential administration. (Sources: Wounds, November 2005, pages 313-320; Wound Repair and Regeneration, October 2002, pages 161-168; and Drugs & Aging, August 2001, pages 607-620)
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Celebrities, even unconventional ones, are still a key drawing point for many consumers, and L'Oreal is keenly aware of this (as are sister companies Maybelline New York and Lancome). The company recently signed Oscar-winning actress Diane Keaton to represent its newest Age-Perfect skin-care products, and she will likely be the spokesperson for an upcoming L'Oreal foundation aimed at women with mature skin (a term I have always disliked because it speaks to age, not one's actual skin type). I admire Keaton's work as an actress, and her approachable look and offbeat demeanor may prove a successful choice for L'Oreal. Source for the above: www.usatoday.com/life/people/2006-05-12-keaton-loreal_x.htm |
Dear Paula,
I am a massage therapist and I regularly use essential oils in my treatments. In fact, certain specialty treatments call for copious amounts of pure essential oils to be put on the back and limbs, along with other vegetable oils. Is this safe? After reading your book, and treating my own facial skin, I know that essential oils aren't good for the face, but are they harmful on the rest of the body? How can I incorporate aromatherapy into my massages without compromising the health of the skin? And is it possible that, while the oils compromise the health of the skin, through being absorbed they may benefit other systems of the body, making the risk to the skin "worth it," such as the risk of irritation by BHAs being worth it for the benefit of exfoliation?
Shiva, via email
Dear Shiva,
Anything that irritates the skin is a problem. Even AHA and BHA should be discontinued if either causes continued irritation or inflammation. The only reason to experiment with AHAs or BHA is the potential these topical exfoliants have for either building collagen or reducing breakouts.
In terms of essential oils (meaning aromatic oils such as eucalyptus, lavender, peppermint, etc.), their possible benefit for providing antioxidant protection is easily replaced with other oils that have no risk of causing irritation, such as olive, evening primrose, canola, and sunflower oils, which you are already using (at least that's what I assume you mean by other vegetable oils). If aromatic oils have other benefits when applied directly to the skin, I have seen no research indicating what they may be, but their potential for problems is well-established.
In terms of massage, a favorite indulgence of mine, I always ask the massage therapist to spray essential oils in the air or to use a heat diffuser so my senses get the benefit and my skin doesn't have to risk the irritation. However, because people get massages periodically and not daily, the occasional use of essential oils during a massage is not going to be a big problem. It is the repeated use of irritating substances, particularly on the face, that is cause for the greatest concern when the goal is to keep your skin healthy.
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