Removing Eye Makeup:   More Important than You Think! I was asked to be part of a medical advisory group attended by some of the most prominent dermatologists in the field. Of the topics discussed the most fascinating were discussions about anti-wrinkle products, the validity (or lack thereof) of how effective these are, and the ways the cosmetics industry and the medical community have collaborated to create studies that prove a product is beneficial when in truth the study proves nothing at all (but makes for great marketing copy). On a far more mundane level there was also a brief dialogue about makeup removal. I mentioned that a basic remedy for puffy, irritated, crepey skin around the eyes was being sure to remove every last trace of eye makeup before you go to bed. One of the dermatologists echoed the concern, mentioning that as she is looking at her patients’ skin under a magnifying glass, she is always surprised how much makeup is crusted into the lines around the eyes. Not a pretty picture. That got me thinking about the need for makeup remover. In the past, I would have recommended using only a gentle, water-soluble cleanser for cleaning your face and removing makeup, and for some women who wear minimal makeup, that does work great. But for those who apply foundation, concealer, eyeshadows, eyeliner, and mascara, a routine like that isn’t going to do the trick, and a dedicated makeup remover needs to be part of your nightly routine. I still feel it is important to begin by washing the face with a gentle, water-soluble cleanser and removing as much makeup as you can that way. Gently massaging a cleanser over the face and eyes prevents tugging and pulling, which is far better for skin. Then the last traces of makeup can be removed with a gentle makeup remover and soft pad of cotton (pulling and tugging as little as possible).  STILA Illuminating Concealer ($22) is supposed to reflect light, but while this brush-on concealer has an opaque matte finish that conceals well, it tends to look flat rather than reflective. But the lineup of five shades is impressively neutral and includes options for fair and dark (but not very dark) skin tones, and it doesn't crease into lines around the eye, which is always a plus. Don't go by the name and you'll be impressed with this liquid concealer; it's especially good for concealing red marks left over from blemishes. Don't want to spend this much money for a concealer? It's drugstore equivalent (that comes in an equally good assortment of colors) is Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Concealer ($5.99).  PHISODERM Daily Moisturizer with SPF 15 ($7.69 for 2 ounces) has the UVA protection part right, thanks to its in-part avobenzone sunscreen, but that's the only reason to consider this otherwise ho-hum product. The lightweight lotion base will please those with normal to oily skin, but part of the lightness results from the 3% alcohol content. The fragrance and preservatives outweigh the advertised vitamins, meaning they're mere window dressing. That's a shame because if slightly more thought had gone into this sunscreen, it would have been a slam-dunk recommendation.  CLINIQUE High Definition Lashes Brush Then Comb Mascara ($13.50) is really bad, and that's not something I see too often with new mascaras these days. The dual-sided brush features comb-like teeth on one side and standard mascara bristles on the other. You're directed to use the bristled portion first to build thickness, then comb through lashes for length and added drama. Neither side works well, although at least the brush side doesn't leave lashes clumped together and spiky-looking. All in all, it is a real disappointment. Clinque's High Impact Mascara ($13.50) produces dramatic, defined lashes without a hitch, and is distinctly preferred! Dear Paula, Over the last few years of reading your books, newsletters, and Beauty Bulletins I have learned so much about skin care. Above all else you have taught me to recognize claims about a product that sound too good to be true and investigate its validity. My alarm bells are going off after my first visit to an aesthetician and I need your help to discover the truth. I'm 39 and extremely fair skinned. I have avoided the sun and used sunscreen most of my life. An aesthetician examined my skin under a "Woods light" and pronounced that I have suffered extreme sun damage especially on the left side of my face. She recommended several courses of a "Jessner peel" until the sun damage had been significantly reversed. I don't really see much of a problem with my skin. I have no discoloration aside from a bit of redness on my cheek and some fine lines on my forehead along with age-related developing of crow's feet. Can a Woods light really show this sun damage? Will a course of Jessner's peels reverse sun damage? The whole thing sounds suspect to me. Susan, via email Dear Susan, A Wood's lamp uses a certain wavelength of ultraviolet light to pinpoint and map various underlying problems in skin, from fungal infections to pigmentation issues. It can reveal pigment problems (from sun damage or another factor) that may not be visible on the surface yet (and you may never see them or won't see them for years). Given your adherence to sunscreen, it is likely you've stopped this pigmentation in its tracks. However, being fair-skinned, you are more vulnerable to sun damage even when exposure with protection is intermittent. What your esthetician saw under the lamp may be the cumulative damage from childhood sun exposure (most of us didn't wear sunscreen as kids or teens). A Jessner's peel is a rather strong option that you shouldn't consider just yet. This solution consists of a salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol in an alcohol base. Some dermatologists consider it a light peel, while others classify it as medium depth (the classification status often depends on how long the solution is left on skin). The resorcinol component is what’s most irritating, especially compared to standard glycolic or salicylic acid peels. I'd suggest trying a series of IPL treatments (also known as PhotoFacials) or a series of AHA or BHA peels. Both are less problematic than Jessner's and, over time, can produce comparable results with less initial irritation. Your esthetician may not offer such procedures or services, which would explain why she suggested a Jessner’s peel. In general, it is best to have IPL treatments or peels done by a physician or at an accredited facility with a doctor on staff. The IPL treatments will also address the superficial redness you noted, as well as stimulate collagen production to make your fine lines less noticeable. I wouldn’t say your esthetician was wrong to suggest a Jessner’s peel; rather, it’s not the best initial choice or the only option at your disposal. Sheer Cream Lipstick SPF 15 “I have fibromyalgia and for the first time ever (after 30 years of searching!), I have found a lipstick line that looks and feels great on my lips (and has SPF, too)!” —Dana, via email Remember to add the Beauty Bulletin (beautybulletin@cosmeticscop.com) to your Address Book to continue receiving our emails. How? PLEASE DO NOT REPLY TO THIS EMAIL. This email address is used only to send the Bonus Beauty Bulletin and is not monitored. If you have questions for us, please email custserv@cosmeticscop.com. Thank you. SUBSCRIBE    Unsubscribe     Read Beauty Bulletin FAQs View our privacy policy. ©2007 Paula's Choice, Inc. 1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A, Renton, WA 98057. 1-800-831-4088. All rights reserved.