The whole issue of organic cosmetics could fill a book, but to put it briefly there are still no FDA-approved standards to meet for labeling cosmetic products as organic. The same is true in Canada, except in the province of Quebec. Another element that's complicating this issue is the fact that even though lots of cosmetics contain organic ingredients, it's rarely the case that the entire formula is organic. Why? There are various reasons, but mostly it's because a number of synthetic ingredients, such as preservatives, are essential components of many cosmetic formulas. And they're there for a reason: the organic ingredients are not stable and will deteriorate without them. It also helps to remember that you can't put avocados (or any other food item) on your face to "feed" your skin. To make a long story short, these factors help explain why, until acceptable standards are in place, any cosmetic can sport an organic label without having to prove the claim.

More important than getting labeling standards in place is the fact that lots of plant extracts and essential oils have irritating properties that won't help skin in the least-so what difference does it make if they're organically grown or not? Environmental impact and sustainable farming notwithstanding, peppermint is a problem for skin, whether it's grown with or without pesticides. And lest we forget, the process of extraction is anything but natural.

Not surprisingly, there is a consortium of natural product-based companies attempting to standardize the definition and labeling of United States-sold cosmetics as organic. They are not only doing this out of frustration at seeing so many products mislabeled as "organic," but also no doubt were inspired by what occurred with regard to organic cosmetics in Europe in 2006. According to the Web site www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com, the Organic Farmers and Growers developed a cosmetics and body-care standard for companies that wanted to lure consumers with an organic label. Products that meet this group's standards (which are rigorous, but still respectful of current European cosmetic regulations, including the issue of animal testing) are allowed to sport the group's logo on their products, indicating to consumers that they meet organic standards. According to a July 2007 report in Organic Monitor, "With the absence of any major regulations and private standards for natural & organic cosmetics in the USA and Canada, North American companies are increasingly making products according to European standards." But keep in mind that this addresses only the issue of plant origin, not good skin care. Again, we aren't talking about diet.

Regardless of how things shake out in the United States and Canada, no one in the cosmetics industry doubts that organic products are a passing fad. Until the United States has formal standards, companies (such as Origins) are relying on third-party certification of their organic claims, a process tied to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.



  SEPHORA Luminizer ($22) is a silicone-in-water shimmer lotion housed in a glass bottle with a pump applicator. It has a silky application and a dry finish that leaves skin softly glowing. This is an excellent way to subtly highlight skin, and it mixes well with moisturizer or foundation. All three shades are very good.


Dear Paula,
I am a fair-skinned woman with red hair, blue eyes and freckles, with a tendency to burn rather than tan. I have used sunscreen for most (though not all) of my adult life though I've had my share of sunburns, too. At 41, my skin looks pretty good, without a lot of wrinkles or sagging. People generally tell me I look younger than my age. The problem? Over the last few years the skin on my face has taken on a permanent sunburned look and is several shades pinker and darker than the skin on my neck. In fact, some of my friends have commented that my foundation is too dark and mask-like, even though I wear none at all! There is a noticeable difference even when I'm not wearing a stitch of makeup. I don't have any rash-like symptoms or eruptions that would indicate rosacea. Could the redness simply be sun damage and if so is there any way to correct it? Would a lightening product help? Thanks for all the good info over the years!
Jennifer, via email

Dear Jennifer,
Good for you for being so diligent about sun protection! Of course, all of us have some amount of sun damage because even with diligent sun protection from childhood, some amount of sun damage takes place because sunscreen has its limitations. Plus, the fairer you are the more likely a tiny amount of sun damage will have more serious consequences. The persistent redness and change of color you've experienced on your face may indeed be the result of sun damage. It is possible the blood vessels in your face have become dilated enough so that your fair facial skin appears pink to red even with careful sun avoidance. You may also be dealing with the beginning stages of rosacea; the symptoms you describe as not having now may surface later. Before you consider treatments, you need to see your physician for an exam and diagnosis. Unfortunately there are no skin care products that can treat this problem regardless if the cause is sun damage or rosacea. There are various light-emitting and laser devices that can successfully minimize redness by shrinking dilated blood vessels back to their normal size.

A skin lightening product would not be helpful because the redness you're seeing is likely a circulation and inflammation issue rather than being connected to increased melanin, the brown pigment generated in skin cells. Before you see your doctor, make note of all the skin-care products you use, especially those with active ingredients. Also, be sure to let your doctor know of any prescription medicines and supplements you routinely take. It is possible the redness is being exacerbated by a combination of these factors, and making medically-supervised adjustments may alleviate some of the redness. As an example of why this inventory is important to share with your doctor, you may be using a skin-care product that contains a citrus extract or oil, which can be photosensitizing. Consistent use of such a product along with routine sun exposure (even with sunscreen, because no sunscreen blocks 100% of UV light) could be behind the persistent redness.

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