Tea tree oil has some interesting research demonstrating it to be an effective antimicrobial agent. The Journal of Applied Microbiology (January 2000, pages 170–175) stated that, "The essential oil of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) exhibits broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity. Its mode of action against the Gram-negative bacterium Escherichia coli AG100, the Gram-positive bacterium Staphylococcus aureus NCTC 8325, and the yeast Candida albicans has been investigated using a range of methods. The ability of tea tree oil to disrupt the permeability barrier of cell membrane structures and the accompanying loss of chemiosmotic control is the most likely source of its lethal action at minimum inhibitory levels." In addition, "In a randomized, placebo-controlled pilot study of tea tree oil in the treatment of herpes cold sores, tea tree oil was found to have a similar degree of activity as 5% acyclovir" (Source: Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy, May 2001, page 450). For acne there is also some credible published information showing it to be effective as a topical disinfectant for killing the bacteria that can cause pimples (Source: Letters in Applied Microbiology, October 1995, pages 242–245). However, the crux of the matter for tea tree oil is: How much is needed to have an effect? The Medical Journal of Australia (October 1990, pages 455–458) compared the efficacy of tea tree oil to the efficacy of benzoyl peroxide for the treatment of acne. A study of 119 patients using 5% tea tree oil in a gel base versus 5% benzoyl peroxide lotion was discussed. There were 61 in the benzoyl peroxide group and 58 in the tea tree oil group. The conclusion was that "both treatments were effective in reducing the number of inflamed lesions throughout the trial, with a significantly better result for benzoyl peroxide when compared to the tea tree oil. Skin oiliness was lessened significantly in the benzoyl peroxide group versus the tea tree oil group." However, while the reduction of breakouts was greater for the benzoyl peroxide group, the side effects of dryness, stinging, and burning were also greater—"79% of the benzoyl peroxide group versus 49% of the tea tree oil group."

Given these results, a 2.5% strength benzoyl peroxide solution would be better to start with to see if it is effective, rather than starting with the more potent and somewhat more irritating 5% or 10% concentrations. However, if you were interested in using a 5% strength tea tree oil solution to see if that would be effective, at this time I know of no products stating the amount of tea tree oil they contain. It appears that almost all of the tea tree oil products on the market contain little more than a 1% concentration, if that, which is probably not enough to be of much help for breakouts. Pure tea tree oil products can contain more, but the essential oil is typically diluted to no more than a 3% concentration to avoid damaging skin.

For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. It features over 40,000 detailed product reviews for only $24.95/year.

I am a cosmetician in Vancouver, British Columbia. My first experience in this field occurred before I had a complete understanding of English; I knew nothing about make-up, sales or commission, but I had a passion for science and skin care. I went to a popular college and completed their year-long cosmetics course. I had so many questions and concerns about the products we were instructed to use, especially when they caused problems for a client’s skin, yet the professor could answer few of my questions. When I started to work in the retail world, I saw people with severe skin problems searching for real solutions. The information I was taught in school supported the commission ideals my employers held, as I was told to sell only the most expensive products. I struggled with this pressure to sell items that might not be helpful to guarantee a commission (I still needed to earn a living, after all).

As it has turned out, I have to lie and sell products I don’t believe in. I have no choice but to sell these products, but sometimes I take the risk of being fired and tell clients the advice I read in your books (including the fact that expensive products aren’t automatically the best choice). They return to praise me for the dramatic difference my suggestions made. I want to thank you for writing honest, research-based books. I have tried to continue my education with makeup courses, but this is slow-going, as I have minimal income and it is hard to break free of retail. I am a Beautypedia subscriber so I can keep up with all of the latest product reviews, but may I ask you for any further information that might help me with my dilemma of selling mainstream products that don’t work? Do you have any advice for me?

Janet, via email

Dear Janet,

I hate to sound bleak, but your experience and realizations are precisely why I left the cosmetics industry behind in the early 1980s and began a new career path that (strangely enough) has taken me full circle back to the cosmetics industry, which we both know to be frustrating yet fascinating.

I sincerely appreciate your comments regarding what you have learned from my books, as my goal is to present balanced and objective information that would otherwise be overshadowed by hyperbole and a glamorous facade. Yet when it comes to counseling someone who doesn’t believe in what they sell (and above all else just needs to make a living) I don’t quite know what to say. My first reaction is to tell you not to stay in an employment position that does not make you happy. Yet in today’s economy a secure job is more important than ever, and for obvious reasons not easy (or smart) to walk away from. You may want to examine the fact that your “clandestine” recommendations have pleased several customers and balance these “hush-hush” product tips with keeping the department store number-crunchers happy by meeting your sales quotas for your line’s top products. Even in a down economy, many women will still be clamoring to pay top dollar for what they believe is the best anti-aging product. For those customers, it would help for you to become familiar with the pricier products my team and I rate highly. At least then you won’t have to feel guilty for selling expensive, inferior products to those looking to over-spend.

Keep in mind that there are department stores that have an open-sell policy, which would allow you to work with your customers to choose the best products for them, regardless of the cosmetics line. This concept has worked well for such U.S. department stores as Marshall Field’s (now Macy’s) and Nordstrom, not to mention the beauty emporium Sephora. I have received similar service in Vancouver department stores, too, so change is coming.

As for makeup training, my best advice is to practice on yourself and others as often as possible. Take a look at the many beautiful makeup pictorials in Kevyn Aucoin’s three books. And be assertive about getting customers to let you apply makeup to them, such as on-the-spot makeovers or even simply evening out touch-ups. None of this requires a major financial investment and will assuredly help you hone your makeup skills. Just like many other learned skills, practice makes perfect!

Dear Paula,

I love your advice and appreciate what an overwhelming task it is to review all that stuff!  I am 63 and used to have oily skin until about age 40, then combination skin.  In the last 5 years it is still shiny on the nose, chin and forehead by the end of the day.  However it is dry on the cheeks and has become sensitive to many cleansers and sunscreens.  For instance, all the Neutrogena products sting my face, but I can use them on my neck and elsewhere.  I have found that lavender sets off a "fire" on my face.

Everyone tells me that my skin looks very young, but I am getting crows feet and bags under my eyes and a bit of sagging and fine wrinkles on my cheeks, along with the "marionette" lines from nose to mouth.

I have tried several versions of Retin-A and I can't tolerate or become accustomed to any of them.  I have also tried the SkinCeuticals .5% Retinol and couldn't tolerate that either.

Here is the list of the things I use.  I don't use them all every day.  I don't have any sensitivity issues with any of them

Peter Thomas Roth Chamomile Cleansing Lotion
Estee Lauder Soft Clean Silky Hydrating Lotion Toner
Elta "the melting moisturizer" I bought from my derm.  It takes off eye make up very well.  I don't use it as a moisturizer.
EpiQuin Micro hydroquinone USP 4%.  I use it all over because I have so many spots.
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
Clinique Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate for Face and Eye
Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Moisturizer
Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion
Dynamis Meg 21 with Supplamine, Smooth and Radiant Face Treatment (which I got from my derm to use as a moisturizer)
Clinique Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer
Good Skin All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30

I would like a simple routine that would do it all.  I get facials every 4-6 weeks and they always find a lot of gunk in my pores which they squeeze out.

I would so much appreciate your opinion.

Sincerely,
Jeffrey Anne

Dear Jeffrey Anne,

A simple routine is what you’re after, and that’s good: your current routine is much more complicated than it needs to be. It is good that you’re keeping track of what causes your skin to react, and are avoiding those products.

I suspect your combination skin may be partly due to the number of products you’re using. I know you’re not using them all at once, but some paring back will likely help matters.

Before I recommend changes to your routine, please keep in mind that the wrinkles, sagging, and undereye bags you’ve noticed cannot be remedied by skin care products. There are no products or routines that can “do it all” when it comes to these issues. All of these skin changes are due to chronological aging and years of sun damage, something most women in their 50s and beyond struggle with. If the deeper lines and sagging are cause for concern, please consult a board-certified cosmetic surgeon to go over the many options available that can result in significant improvements.

The first note about your skin care routine is that you’re using some very good products. In terms of the cleanser and toner, while both are good, you can find less expensive options. For example, you may want to try CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser and my Skin Balancing Toner.
Keep using the prescription hydroquinone product if that is working well for you; with the AHA and BHA products, only one is needed. If you’re still dealing with breakouts, stick with the BHA product but consider switching to the Gel instead of the Lotion.

The Skinceuticals serum you’re using is a well-formulated product, but again, you don’t have to spend this much. You may want to consider Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence (this may boost the discoloration-fighting efficacy of your hydroquinone product).

Here is what I recommend for your morning routine:

• Cleanse and tone skin
• Apply Clinique Repairwear product around your eyes
• Apply the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Gel (switching from the Lotion) to the entire face, avoiding the eye area
• Apply the Good Skin sunscreen, allow to set, then proceed with makeup

For your evening routine:

• Cleanse and tone skin
• Use the Elta moisturizer to remove eye makeup
• Apply the EpiQuin hydroquinone product
• Apply the Skinceuticals (or a less expensive) serum
• Apply the Dynamis or Clinique moisturizer (no need to use both) to dry areas only, including the cheeks and around the eyes

I’ll bet that this streamlined routine will reduce your skin’s extreme combination tendency and you may even be able to increase the time between facials (please be sure the aesthetician isn’t applying a series of masks to your skin and then doing extractions—most likely those heavy-duty products are contributing to the “gunk” being pulled out of your pores).

1. Korres Skin Care and Makeup (full line review)
2. Revlon Double Twist Mascara
3. Arbonne Mineral Powder Foundation SPF 15
4. Jane Iredale Zap & Hide Blemish Concealer
5. Lancome High Resolution Refill 3X Triple Action Renewal Anti Wrinkle Night Cream

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