IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY VIEWING IMAGES IN THIS EMAIL, GO TO HTTP://WWW.COSMETICSCOP.COM/BULLETIN/042806-full.HTM Final 3 Days of $3 Shipping* It's a great time to stock up! This special offer ends Sunday night so order now. *Standard shipping to US and Canadian addresses only (in Canada, GST, duties and Customs fees still apply). Retail customers only. Expires 4/30/06. Origins Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins I have much respect for Dr. Andrew Weil's books and teachings on the concepts and practice of Integrative Medicine. I also believe he had good intentions entering into his agreement with Estee Lauder-owned Origins to create beauty products. However, as you'll see below, even the best intentions don't always amount to skin-care products you can count on, doctor's orders or not! [More Origins reviews are contained in the March/April 2006 issue of my Cosmetics Counter Update, available here.]  Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum ($65 for 1.7 ounces) is a product I am asked about frequently. Many of my readers are concerned that integrative medicine guru Dr. Weil has "sold out" by freely endorsing skin-care products and supplements from Origins. Of course the answer to that, from my perspective, would depend solely on whether the good doctor created products consumers can rely on for making their skin look better. Alas, that isn't the case here. At least at the outset, it seems Dr. Weil's influence at Origins is positive. This water-based serum has dozens of skin-beneficial ingredients, including efficacious, nonvolatile plant oils, glycerin, lecithin, and many antioxidants, including olive oil, turmeric, and several species of mushrooms. Things go awry because Origins just couldn't resist adding irritating essential oils to their products. Lavender, orange, patchouli, geranium, and mandarin oils all have volatile compounds that run counter to the soothing, anti-inflammatory effects of the ingredients that precede them. Dr. Weil could have easily found this out from a number of sources, including pubmed.com and naturaldatabase.com, among many other resources. The oils assuredly make this serum smell wonderful, which is great for your nose, but they aren't helpful to skin in the least, and prevent this product from being recommended. Without these questionable, problematic fragrant extras, this could have been one of the more intelligently formulated antioxidant serums available.  Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Cream ($60 for 1.7 ounces) is the cream version of the serum above, sharing many of the same ingredients, but with the emollients and thickeners needed to create a cream texture. Assuming the irritating ingredients mentioned in the review of the Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum above were not present, the many antioxidants in this moisturizer for normal to dry skin are compromised by this product's jar packaging, as antioxidants are not stable in packaging that isn't airtight. As it is, this well-intentioned product has too many negatives to make it a calming, age-fighting experience for skin. (unrated) Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Supplement ($35 for 1.7 ounces) is a liquid supplement designed to "optimize skin's defenses against aging." In addition to vitamin C, vitamin E, flax seed oil, and trace minerals, the formula contains two species of mushroom, ginger, holy basil, turmeric, and lion's mane. Most of these ingredients have impressive research supporting their use as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, and/or immune system stimulants when consumed in the diet. Though a few of the ingredients in this supplement are not recommended for use by pregnant women, as a matter of common sense, please check with your physician before taking any supplements while pregnant. Overall, research indicates this is an intelligent formulation for those seeking a supplement with antioxidants. It also has immune-stimulating benefits. The question is how much of any of these substances is needed to obtain the desired effect. In the case of some of these ingredients (like vitamin C) we have a firm idea, while for others (holy basil) no typical dosage has been established (Source: naturaldatabase.com). I wouldn't bank on this (or any) supplement to replace a well-balanced, healthy diet, but with your physician's OK, this liquid supplement does have value. Almay  Smart Shade Makeup SPF 15 ($13.99) is available in only three shades, and the logic from Almay is that this colorless makeup (I'll explain that in a moment) transforms to complement your skin tone, thus taking the guesswork out of choosing foundation shade. If only it were that simple! Addressing the preliminaries, this liquid foundation has a titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreen, which is great, and it also lends some opacity and coverage. Unfortunately, it also creates a somewhat flat finish. Coverage is sheer to medium (if you're up for layering), and for those with oily skin or oily areas, it does a great job of keeping shine to a minimum. As you dispense each shade, it appears grayish white. As you blend, it turns into a flesh tone and feels surprisingly light. Each shade blends well and does not streak or look "dotted" on skin, though its initial appearance is admittedly startling. Almay has divided the shades by depth of skin color. The Light shade fares best because it is the most neutral. It's a versatile option for fair to light skin, but may be too yellow for some fair skin tones. Light/Medium is OK for medium skin tones, but is too peach for lighter skin, while Medium has a rosy tone that makes it unsuitable for most skin colors. Unlike Cover Girl's TruBlend or Max Factor's Colour Adapt foundations, you won't be able to wear more than one shade and have it look convincing. In fact, given the limitations of the shades Almay created, consumers may end up more frustrated than satisfied by this attempt to streamline foundation shade choices. If one of these shades works for you, this is an impressive, long-wearing foundation for normal to very oily skin. Note, however, that it will take more than a water-soluble cleanser to remove it. (I used a silicone-based makeup remover with a washcloth to get it off.) Johnson & Johnson  Softlotion Extra Care Healing Lotion for Baby Soft Skin ($5.79 for 1.4 ounces) will leave dry skin soft and smooth without residual greasiness, but that's about all this product has going for it. The basics needed to address dry skin (glycerin, petrolatum, mineral oil) are present, but the formula lacks any state-of-the-art components that can truly help skin's health and function. The amount of fragrance makes it a strong potential skin irritant. Battle Plan for Getting Rid of Blackheads A lot of people are frustrated or confused about how to win the battle against blackheads (technically called comedones) or whiteheads (technically called milia). Why all the confusion? Primarily it's because the many products claiming they can rid the face of these black dots don't work. The problem persists and often these same products don't improve conditions, but make matters worse. In reality, aside from misleading marketing claims, the truth about blackheads (usually accompanied by oily skin) and whiteheads (accompanied by either dry or oily skin) is hard to accept. What is the truth? To put it plainly, they are just hard to get rid of. It is difficult to fight clogged pores but there are things you can do. Here's how it works: A normal functioning pore produces a normal amount of sebum (oil). When a normal amount of oil is produced, it effortlessly moves through the pore and out onto the surface of skin, where it melts into an imperceptible film forming a protective, healthy barrier over the face. The amount of oil produced is regulated almost exclusively by hormones, specifically androgens, which are the hormones that create masculine human characteristics. When hormones cause too much sebum (oil) to be produced, dead skin cells are in the way, and the pore is impaired or misshapen, the path for the oil is blocked, creating a clog—a perfect environment where blackheads and/or whiteheads can occur. Further exacerbating these conditions are the use of skin-care or makeup products containing ingredients similar to the composition of sebum (human sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and cholesterol esters). All these substances are typically found in thousands of cosmetic products and they can absorb into the pore, adding to the buildup of sebum. Interestingly and contrary to popular belief, the ingredients mineral oil and petrolatum cannot absorb into the pore because their molecular size is too large. Both ingredients feel greasy, especially on oily skin, but neither has been proven to clog pores or contribute to blackheads. In short, when a combination of skin cells and too much sebum are trapped inside a pore and the pore is not covered over by skin, the clog is exposed to air, causing cells and sebum to oxidize and resulting in the dark color of a blackhead. When the sebum and skin cells are inside a pore that is covered by skin, they are not exposed to air and therefore stay clear, but form a slight white bump under the skin. The never-ending questions are: Why do some people get whiteheads and not blackheads? Why does the problem occur in some areas of the face but not others? What causes some products to make people break out but not give them blackheads? And finally, what makes some products cause blackheads but not acne? Those questions have no specific answers. It seems to be primarily a genetic predisposition accompanied by the right conditions (mentioned above) randomly taking place in any one of the thousands of pores we have on our face. Not to mention an unknown reaction to the thousands and thousands of different cosmetic ingredients we may come in contact with from the various products we use. Other than avoiding products that are too emollient (meaning thick or greasy creams) and not using moisturizers unless you truly need them, there are really only four essentials for dealing with whiteheads and blackheads: Gentle, water-soluble cleansers (and avoiding bar soap). The ingredients that keep soap in its bar form can clog pores, and irritation can cause skin cells to flake off before they're ready and accumulate in the pore. The good news is that there are lots of gentle cleansers to consider. It's actually getting more and more difficult to find a cleanser that isn't gentle. Someone with dry skin would want to use a slightly more moisturizing cleanser—but be careful: cleansers that are too emollient can contain ingredients that add to the sebum in your skin causing further problems. Gentle exfoliants that can both remove the excess skin cells on the surface of the face (so they don't build up in the pore) and exfoliate inside the pore (to improve the shape of the pore, allowing a more even flow of oil through it). Keep in mind that the pore itself is lined with skin cells that can build up, creating a narrowed shape that doesn't allow for natural oil flow out of the pore. But don't get carried away with this step. Overdoing it (removing too many skin cells) can cause problems and hurt skin. Exfoliation is essential for both dry and oily skin to eliminate blackheads or whiteheads. Again, someone with dry skin will want an exfoliant that has a more moisturizing base. The best option for a good exfoliant is a 1% or 2% BHA gel, liquid, or lotion. There are still only limited options for this one, including Neutrogena Clear Pore Treatment with 2% Salicylic Acid, Olay Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer, Paula's Choice 1% or 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid products, and Serious Skin Care Clarifying Treatment with 2% Salicylic Acid,. If you cannot use a beta hydroxy acid, you might want to try an alpha hydroxy acid, but AHAs are not able to penetrate the pore lining and affect mostly the surface of skin. That can be helpful, but salicylic acid can absorb into the pore lining and improve conditions. By the way, topical disinfectants such as benzoyl peroxide or topical antibiotics available by prescription do not help in the treatment of blackheads and milia because there is no bacterial involvement related to these conditions. Deeper exfoliation treatments for stubborn blackheads and milia are options you may want to consider. Microdermabrasion, either from an at-home treatment (Neutrogena's At Home Microdermabrasion System) or the procedure performed at a doctor's office or spa are options. Also AHA or BHA peels and laser resurfacing may possibly have a positive impact on the appearance of blackheads and milia. However, the research on this is at best limited. Anecdotally, it appears to be an option. Keep in mind that none of these treatments alter hormone function or the structure of the pore, or improve pore functioning—rather, they temporarily get rid of the surface problem, making the skin look better in the short term. Absorbing excess oil. This step is for those with oily skin and is not necessary for those with whiteheads and dry skin, because with dry skin the problem isn't about excess surface oil, it's only the oil trapped inside the pore. For those with oily skin, clay masks (that don't contain irritating ingredients of mint, peppermint, camphor or the like) are an option and oil-absorbing papers can also help. Retinoids play an important role in successfully battling blackheads. Retinoids are forms of vitamin A that can actually help skin cells function normally and improve the shape of the pore so oil flow is normalized and clogs are far less apt to take place. The most typical and well-researched retinoids are tretinoin (found in prescription medications such as Retin-A, Renova, Avita, and Tazorac) and adapelene (found in the prescription drug Differin). These can be used on their own or with a BHA product. Research has definitely established that tretinoin and adapelene have positive effects on how pores function, and these products should be a strong consideration for battling blackheads or breakouts in general. Hormone blockers, birth control pills, and Accutane: For those with severe oily-skin conditions, prescription medications such as hormone blockers or certain low-dose birth-control pills can reduce hormone levels of androgens, which are the cause of excess oil production. And, when all else fails, Accutane should definitely be considered. Though many doctors are reluctant to prescribe Accutane for "merely" oily skin and blackheads, for those with that kind of persistent skin problem, it does not feel like a "mere" problem in the least and Accutane can be a cure. Either way these are all options (albeit serious ones) you can talk over with your physician. Removing blackheads: This isn't a pretty topic, but it is a fact of life and human nature that just leaving a blemish or blackhead alone is almost impossible. Fortunately, gently removing a blackhead or blemish with light-handed squeezing can actually help the skin. Removing the stuff inside a blackhead or especially a pimple relieves the pressure and reduces further damage. Yes, squeezing can be detrimental to the skin, but how you squeeze determines whether you inflict harm. If you over-squeeze, pinch, scrape the skin with your nails, or press too hard, you are absolutely doing more damage than good. Gentle is the key word and, when done right, squeezing with minimal pressure is the best, if not the only, way to clean out a blackhead or blemish. How not to over-squeeze? Although I never recommend steaming the face (heat can cause spider veins to surface and create irritation), a tepid to slightly warm compress over the face can help soften the blackhead or blemish, making removal easier. First, wash your face with a water-soluble cleanser. Pat the skin dry, then place a slightly warm, wet cloth over your face for approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Once that's done, pat the skin dry again, then using a tissue over each finger to keep you from slipping and tearing the skin, apply even, soft pressure to the sides of the blemish area, gently pressing down and then up around the lesion. Do this once or twice only. If nothing happens, that means the blemish cannot be removed, and continuing will bruise the skin, risk making the infection or lesion worse, and cause scarring. Again, only use gentle pressure, protect your skin by using tissue around your fingers, and do not over-squeeze. What about pore strips? What has me most concerned about pore strips (which are not as widely available as they once were) is that most people don't pay attention to the warnings clearly printed on the side of the box. Pore strips are accompanied by strong warnings such as not to use them over any area other than the nose and not to use them over inflamed, swollen, sunburned, or excessively dry skin. It also states that if the strip is too painful to remove, you should wet it and then carefully remove it. What a warning! You may at first be impressed with what comes off your nose. (Well, if you have extremely superficial, noticeable black-looking blackheads, there is no question: you will be impressed.) Most people do have some oil sitting at the top of their oil glands (most of the face's oil glands are located on the nose), and whether you use these strips or a piece of tape, black dots and some skin will be removed. Is that helpful? Briefly, but if you use these repeatedly, they will not eliminate the problem. And the ingredients on the strip can eventually irritate skin and potentially trigger further breakouts. The way these strips adhere can absolutely injure or tear skin. They are especially unsafe if you've been using Retin-A, Renova, AHAs or BHA; having facial peels; taking Accutane; or if you have naturally thin skin or any skin disorder such as rosacea, psoriasis, or seborrhea. (Sources for this article: Cutis, May 2005, pages 289-293; Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, May-June 2005, pages 281-288; British Journal of Dermatology, November 2005, pages 919-924; Clinical Dermatology, September-October, 2004, pages 367-374; Dermatology, January 2003, pages 11-16 and 29-36; Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001, pages 211-214; emedicine.com/DERM/topic2.htm.) The National Advertising Division (NAD), part of the Council of Better Business Bureaus, Inc., has called out several questionable claims in Avon's ads for their Anew products. In particular, the group objected to claims that Anew Clinical Lift & Tuck was "proven to tuck the tummy and lift the rear" as well as being able to "restore, reshape and remold" those areas. Such claims, and the ads' main tag lines mentioning plastic surgery procedures such as liposuction, give consumers the impression that Avon's product is a viable, effective alternative to surgery, when it absolutely is not. Avon "respectfully disagreed" with NAD's analysis of the ad, but agreed to take their comments into consideration for future ads (Source: www.nadreview.org). As more and more cosmetics companies produce products designed to compete with in-office procedures and surgeries, I suspect NAD will be even busier over the next several years. Meanwhile, I ask consumers to keep one thing in mind whenever a product claims to work as well as a medical procedure: If the product really did work that well (or better, as some products claim), we would see statistical declines in plastic and cosmetic dermatology procedures. And that is not happening, not by a long shot! Dear Paula, I was just flipping through More, the magazine for the 40-plus woman. Many of the women featured in stories or on the cover are in their late forties to fifties. Many of them are in "public life" as actresses or models. They look absolutely flawless, smoothed, wrinkle- and spot-free at their respective ages, and usually claim to have had no surgery. Now I know that there are lots of nonsurgical treatments available that can do much to improve the texture and firmness of skin. I guess what I'm wondering is whether these women are reasonable role models for the rest of us who cannot throw our whole retirement account into our looks? How do they do it? Is it photo retouching? Peels and lasers along with injections? Thanks to you I always read the label and often understand what I am reading! Diane, via email Dear Diane, I agree, most female celebrities in their forties and fifties are looking better than ever, but I wouldn't look to them or anyone else as a role model for looking younger without help from a medical procedure (surgery or otherwise). These women did not reach their age and achieve their illustrious status and gorgeous appearance without a lot of expense and behind-the-scenes help. Medical procedures aside, and though I am not much for believing tabloid reporting, candid photos of celebrities reveal a much less flattering image than the staged, photo-adjusted pictures that appear in ultra-flattering fashion magazines. In those cases, the celebrity is usually in a professional studio, and is assisted by a team of lighting technicians, wardrobe assistants, a hairstylist, a makeup artist, and perhaps even a personal trainer. If the photography is outdoors, trust me, every effort is made to control the lighting and make the subject look as flattering as possible. All of this goes on before and during the photo session, and even so the image is often significantly doctored before it's ever seen in print. Blemishes, moles, and freckles are removed, wrinkles and sagging skin are softened (and in some images completely erased), teeth are made whiter, and eyes are made brighter, all thanks to the magic of digital retouching software. Combine this attention to image detail with the fact that most female celebrities regularly have nonsurgical treatments such as Botox and peels, and it's no wonder they're looking so good. Are they reasonable role models for the rest of us? I don't think so. Given that a female celebrity's face and body are her fortune, and that the public expects this appearance, these women must aim for a higher aesthetic standard than we generally can afford for ourselves. Rather than aspire to the whole package of image enhancement celebrities typically receive (and endure), we should instead consider the treatments within our budget and focus on taking the best possible care of our skin. Not wasting money on expensive antiwrinkle creams can add up, letting you consider a procedure at a doctor's office that can really make a lasting difference. Last, as important as looks are, they don't begin to compare to the contributions we make to our families and friends by striving to be caring, compassionate, and loving people at every age, no matter what the appearance of our skin. New Constant Color Lip Paint Shades The color selection for this best-selling, long-lasting liquid lipstick just got better! Try Honey Mist, an understated nude with gold shimmer, Romantic Pink, a medium pastel pink with no shimmer, or Sandstone Pink, a soft nude pink without shimmer. See all the shades New Brow & Lash Brush Perfect for separating and defining lashes after mascara application or for grooming and shaping brows. This unique dual-sided brush has a plastic comb on one side and a soft synthetic bristled brush on the other. Find out more Tell a friend about the Beauty Bulletin! 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