    
|
Let’s talk about vitamin C…
You may already know, but it bears repeating, that when it comes to smart skin care, there isn’t a single magic ingredient—no matter how expensive, no matter how rare. Just as eating only one vegetable can’t possibly give your body everything it needs, no single antioxidant, no matter how potent, can give your skin all the care it needs. Yet if you’ve seen any skin care marketing in the past two decades, you’ve probably noticed that vitamin C gets a lot of attention as being nothing short of miraculous. Rather than rely on hype, we turned to published, substantiated research in order to understand how the antioxidant powerhouse vitamin C can truly benefit skin.
A piggy-back ride to skin-care fame…
Almost 20 years ago, a Duke University scholar published a ground-breaking paper that showed how a form of vitamin C called L-ascorbic acid reduced UVB damage when applied to the backs of hairless pigs. This evidence suggested that photodamage or “sun spots” could be repaired with topical use of vitamin C—and that was big news for anyone concerned with signs of aging! That original paper preceded an impressive and conclusive body of research that has since proven the benefits, stability issues, and usage requirements for vitamin C. Further research (lots of research) continued to show vitamin C’s positive effect on skin, and a bonafide, legitimate skincare craze was born!
Mass market explosion leads to consumer confusion…
As widely used as vitamin C is in cosmetics now, it can get confusing because there are many forms, each with its own name formulated in varying amounts. Here’s what you need to know:
- The forms of vitamin C that are proven most stable and effective are: ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
- Regardless of marketing hype – there is no single “best” form of topically-applied vitamin C.
- A proven range for vitamin C efficacy is between 0.3% and 10%.
- All antioxidants, including vitamin C, are vulnerable to deterioration in the presence of air and light. If a product containing antioxidants does not come in airtight, opaque packaging, don’t buy it!
So what can vitamin C really do?
Here’s what a well-formulated, stably-packaged product with vitamin C can do for your skin:
- Protect skin cells and skin’s support structure from UV-related damage
- Improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin
- Strengthen skin’s barrier response
- Reduce inflammation
- Promote collagen production
- Enhance effectiveness of peels and microdermabrasion
- Lessen hyperpigmentation (at levels of 5% or greater)
- Boost the efficacy of sunscreen actives
Now You C It!
From its humble skin-care beginnings atop the backs of hairless pigs to the countless studies and research that followed, vitamin C has definitely been shown to be a powerful antioxidant. In her peer-reviewed article “Topical Vitamin C” Dr. Patricia Farris nicely sums up how conclusive research supports the positive effects of vitamin C, stating, “A significant body of scientific research supports the use of cosmeceuticals containing vitamin C. Cutaneous benefits include promoting collagen synthesis, photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, lightening hyperpigmentation, and improvement of a variety of inflammatory dermatoses.” With the added bonus of carrying a low risk of sensitization (at levels below 10%), vitamin C is a proven, beneficial addition to your skin-care regimen.
(Sources: Archives of Dermatological Research, August 2009, pages 487–495; Brazilian Journal of Biology November 2009, pages 1,195–1,201; Journal of Cellular Biochemistry, March 2009, pages 589–598; International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2009, pages 41–46; Experimental Dermatology, November 2008, pages 946–952; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 814–817; International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 24, Supplement 2, 2005, pages 51–111; Nutrition Reviews, March 2005, pages 81-90; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, November-December 2004, pages 298–303; and BMC Dermatology, September 2004, page 13.)
Find out what Paula's Choice Products contain Vitamin C. |
|
OLAY Regenerist Regenerating Body Lotion ($9.99 for 6.7ounces). With few exceptions, Olay Regenerist Regenerating Body Lotion is very similar to the body lotions Olay offers in their Quench line. The core ingredients are identical, and include an impressive amount of niacinamide and the emollient petrolatum. The difference is that the Regenerist formula adds more cell-communicating ingredients, including a peptide complex that, in theory, should be beneficial for aging/sun-damaged skin.
Overall, this is a beautifully formulated body moisturizer that is among Olay's best and definitely one of the best at the drugstore. You get a smaller amount of product compared to the Quench body lotions, but many won't mind because of Regenerist's slight formulary edge. This lightly fragranced body lotion contains mineral pigments that leave a shine on skin. Note that in many retail stores, this body lotion is stocked with Olay’s Regenerist facial care products.
 CLINIQUE High Lengths Mascara ($14). First things first—let’s talk about this innovative brush. Resembling a thin, elongated claw with three tiny rows of plastic teeth on one side, the shape is meant to mimic the curve of your eyelid, yet it cannot be applied in one swoop from the lash line up without creating a mess. Rather, the best results are achieved by combing the end of the brush up through each individual lash. After trying it every which way, this method was the only one that produced an even look with no smudging. That said, and after much effort, even a perfect application can’t prevent some smudging by the end of the day. The bright side is that the mascara comes off easily with a water-soluble cleanser. You can achieve some length along with separated and defined lashes, but going lash-by-lash takes a long time to get there, and given the number of brilliant inexpensive mascaras out there, there is no reason to consider this one.
 MURAD Time Release Acne Cleanser ($30 for 6.75 ounces). Despite its needlessly high price, this had the makings of a very good cleanser for normal to oily skin. It’s a cross between a cleansing gel and a lotion, and is capable of removing makeup along with excess surface oil, just like many other less expensive cleansers. The key anti-acne “selling point” for this cleanser is the claim that it kills bacteria on contact and uses a time-release technology to deliver acne medication to the skin for hours. However, there is no acne medication anywhere on the ingredient list, listed as active (which would be required according to FDA regulations) or inactive. This clever, overdone marketing from a dermatologist is embarrassing. There is nothing unique about this product except for the claim.
For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. It features over 40,000 detailed product reviews for only $24.95/year. |
Dear Paula,
I need your help with which products to use with Stieva-A .025% tretinoin cream. I am 50 and started using this prescription product a couple days ago. Based on the leaflet that came with the product, I am not supposed to be using it with salicylic acid. I was using Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 (BHA exfoliant) followed by their Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 15 that contains retinol.
What should I use now and what’s the best order of application? If I understand correctly, I do not need to use a moisturizer with retinol (because of the tretinoin in the Stieva-A), is that correct? I am thinking of using a recommendation I read about in your book, Olay Regenerist Perfecting Cream for Night and Olay Regenerist Enhancing Lotion with UV Protection SPF 15, or Neutrogena Active Breathable Sunblock SPF 45. I have combination skin and am only using the tretinoin for anti-aging purposes; I have no acne.
Any info you can give me regarding products in combination with Stieva-A would be greatly appreciated.
Cheryl, via email
Dear Cheryl,
Tretinoin is one of the best, most well-researched anti-aging ingredients around, so I’m glad to know you’re using it. Regardless of the brand name or concentration, lots of women are confused about what they can and probably shouldn’t use with tretinoin, and order of application is a frequent source of puzzlement, too.
First, the issue of salicylic acid and tretinoin use isn’t absolute. Salicylic acid doesn’t interfere with tretinoin’s efficacy. The precautionary statement is there because combined use of tretinoin and salicylic acid can exacerbate the potential side effects of both. For many women, tretinoin causes persistent dryness and flaking, at least until skin acclimates to its use (a process that can take 2–3 months). Since you don’t have acne, I see no reason for you to continue using a salicylic acid product. However, if you wish to keep using one for its exfoliating benefit (tretinoin is not an exfoliant), that’s fine. Just apply it after cleansing and/or toning in the morning, when you don’t apply tretinoin.
Using a product with retinol at the same time as using tretinoin can be too much of a good thing. I’d stop using the Neutrogena product with retinol until you know how your skin is going to respond to daily tretinoin use. There are lots of beautifully formulated daytime moisturizers with sunscreen for you to consider. You may want to try one with mineral active ingredients, as these can be easier on skin when it may become sensitive to a prescription topical treatment. Consider using Good Skin All Calm Gentle Sunscreen SPF 25 or Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 15 as your daytime moisturizer.
The Olay Regenerist products you’re considering are good, but there’s some concern that the active ingredients in the Enhancing Lotion may be too much for skin being treated with tretinoin. The other Regenerist product you mentioned isn’t one I could find and am wondering if you’re referring to Olay’s Regenerist Deep Hydration Regenerating Cream, which I do recommend as a good moisturizer. It would be fine for you to apply this at night.
As for order of application, tretinoin should only be applied at night because UV light exposure (even the tiny amount that still reaches skin when it’s protected by sunscreen) deactivates tretinoin. So your nighttime routine would be to cleanse, apply toner (if you use one), apply tretinoin, allow the tretinoin to absorb for a few minutes, then follow with moisturizer over dry areas, including around the eyes (you don’t need a separate eye cream). Generally speaking, tretinoin should be applied before moisturizers and/or serums and after exfoliants (though this doesn’t apply to you because you’re going to use an exfoliant as part of your morning routine). |
| Paula's Online Radio Show |
This Week's Topic:
"5 Ways to Stop Wrinkles and Win Prizes!" |
 |
LIVE Every Thursday!
Call in and talk to Paula
6pm PT, 8pm CT, 9pm ET
|
|
FIND OUT MORE »
|
|
|
eucalyptus extract.
Extract that may have antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties on the skin (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, January–February 2000, pages 60–64). It also may be a skin irritant, particularly on abraded skin (Sources: Clinical Experimental Dermatology, March 1995, pages 143–145; and www.naturaldatabase.com). |
|
BEAUTYPEDIA.com
Expert Reviews, Beautiful Results
Looking for more product reviews? Below is a sampling of new product reviews at Beautypedia.com:
- Sothys Paris (full line review)
- Skinn by Dimitri James (full line review)
- Rapidlash Eyelash Renewal Serum
- Neutrogena Skin Clearing Oil-Free Makeup
- StriVectin StriVectin Overnight Facial Resurfacing Serum
Access over 45,000 reviews at Paula Begoun's Beautypedia.com for as little as $4.95! |
|
|