February 3, 2005
Aveda Inner Light Makeup
Aveda has revamped their former foundation, concealer, and powder products, and the updates, for the most part, are impressive. The marketing angle for these products (now referred to as Inner Light makeup--a great name for turning makeup into a spiritual experience) is that the formulas are mineral-infused to enhance the skin’s radiance. Each product contains ground-up malachite and tourmaline, two minerals that Aveda maintains can boost the energy of the ingredients they come into contact with. (Although substantiated studies to support this assertion don’t exist [darn!], doesn’t it sound good?) What this translates to on skin is nothing more than shine (not inner light), and the effect, though attractive at night, ends up being a disappointment for fans of Aveda’s previous (and non-shiny) powder foundation and loose-powder products. Thankfully, the shiny element is toned down in the other Inner Light products, and is subtle enough to achieve a “soft glow” effect without being distracting. Aside from their imbalance of shine, these new products are worth exploring the next time you’re in an Aveda salon or store. [A more complete Aveda Inner Light makeup review is contained in the January/February 2005 issue of Cosmetics Counter Update newsletter, which may be purchased from my site.]
 Inner Light Dual Foundation SPF 12 ($20.50)
is a pressed-powder foundation that contains a titanium dioxide-based sunscreen. Although SPF 15 would have been better--and would comply with the American Academy of Dermatology recommendations—--this is still a consideration, as long as you understand that (as for any sunscreen product) it must be applied liberally to achieve the stated SPF and, since it is only SPF 12, you also need another sunscreen product, such as a moisturizer, to get adequate protection. In contrast to its predecessor (Dual Base Minus Oil), this powder foundation is talc-free and instead contains mica, which creates a slightly drier texture and imparts noticeable shine, something that’s not the best for a natural look in daylight. It maintains a smooth texture and remains easy to blend, providing sheer to light coverage when used dry. Aveda claims it can be used wet, too, but as with most powder foundations, this method of application can promote streaks and look uneven. Inner Light Dual Foundation SPF 12 comes in nine mostly beautiful shades, with options for light (but not very light) to dark skin tones. Ginger may turn peach on some medium-tan skin tones, but the rest of the colors are soft and neutral.
 Inner Light Concealer ($15)
needs to be dotted on skin and patted in until it dries, or at least that’s what I was told by the Aveda salesperson who assisted me. Given that this liquid concealer has an initially moist texture that quickly sets to a matte finish, the application method is wise. Trying to blend this concealer in the traditional manner makes it go on somewhat choppy, providing spotty, rather than smooth and even, coverage. Being patient while applying this concealer has its rewards because it provides natural-looking coverage capable of concealing dark circles (without creasing) and minor redness. Inner Light Concealer comes in six shades; only Bamboo is questionable because it has a slight orange cast. The others are winning neutrals, with Mahogany a standout for dark skin. Although this concealer has a matte finish, a slight amount of shine is evident. It’s a minor issue, but one you should be aware of if you want to avoid shine.
 Inner Light Loose Powder ($19)
is described as “lighter than air,” and it is nearly weightless and feels silky on skin. However, only two shades are available and each is laden with shine. Yes, the colors are fairly translucent (meaning several skin tones can successfully wear either shade), but the shine is so intense it can be too distracting for all-over use. This powder is an option for evening shimmer, but think twice before donning it for the office or routine shopping.
Clinique
 Active White Lab Solutions Cleansing Bar ($14.50 for 3.5 ounces)
is a glycerin- and plant oil–based soap, but that doesn’t mean it’s a safe choice for those trying to avoid the dryness and poor rinsing characteristics of bar soaps. This cleanser can still be quite drying and the residue it leaves on the skin is not helpful.
Frederic Fekkai
Technician Color Care Mask ($34 for 7 ounces)
pledges to help “extend the life of color treatments and maintain healthy, shiny hair,” yet this mask can only accomplish the latter by helping hair look shiny and healthy. That’s because it contains the same conditioning, detangling, and antistatic ingredients found in hundreds of other conditioners, all of which also make hair feel healthy and look shiny. Nothing in this product can prolong the rich or vibrant appearance of just-dyed hair, but the claim is nonetheless enticing. All of the exotic-sounding plant extracts and “natural” ingredients (such as wheat and oat proteins) are listed after the fragrance; thus, their presence is more for show than effect. Although pricey, this product would still be a good conditioner for normal to dry hair of any thickness, just don’t expect that spending the extra money will mean less color fading.
Sally Hansen
Airbrush Legs ($9.99 for 3 ounces)
claims to “spray on perfect legs in an instant.” Although I wouldn’t call the results from this aerosol product “perfect,” they are impressive. Meant to be an alternative to pantyhose, Airbrush Legs is akin to spray-on body makeup. The silicone-, talc-, and wax-based formula must be sprayed onto the hands, and then applied to the legs with smooth, even strokes. Blending is tricky because the product dries quickly, but the good news is you can soften mistakes (such as too much color in one area or too little in another) before they set completely. Once set, your Airbrush Legs wear beautifully. The tenacious finish and color does not rub off on clothing, nor does friction (from walking or crossing one’s legs) cause the color to fade or smear, but it can be removed with a standard body wash or liquid cleanser. Despite the product’s matte feel, Airbrush Legs leaves a slight sheen on skin, similar to that from sheer hosiery. Sally Hansen offers four shades of Airbrush Legs, each a variation on a neutral tan tone, with light tan to bronze options. The darkest shade (Deep Glow) is too light for most African-American skin tones, but would create a tan appearance on lighter skin or on Hispanic skin tones. This product does contain fragrant plant extracts (including sage oil and peppermint extract), but in amounts too small to cause irritation. The tiny amount of vitamin K in Airbrush Legs cannot help diminish the appearance of veins or broken capillaries. In terms of coverage, it’s sheer to light (depending on how much you apply), so don’t expect significant camouflage of varicose veins or other discolorations.
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Winterize Your Skin?
We all know skin can get drier during the winter months. Frigid air, drying indoor heat, and relentless winds take a toll. But “winterizing” your skin care has the same kind of implication that “summerizing” your skin-care does. Summer skin care implies that sun care is just for the summer months; winterizing your skin, implies that dry skin care is just for the winter months. Neither is true. What skin needs to be healthy is basically the same all year long. If you take good care of your skin 365 days a year, you will have fewer problems season to season and year to year.
Every day and night your skin requires certain basics to keep it intact and better able to defend against any environmental conditions. When skin is healthy and functioning normally, the surface feels and looks smoother (because it is), and is therefore better able to hold on to water and keep skin cells intact, preventing dehydration. So the following recommendations are for year-round care with a few extras for when the humidity drops to zero and your skin needs a little extra help to behave.
You still need sunscreen: Daylight, even dim, obscure daylight causes skin damage which means it slowly becomes less and less able to hold moisture or feel smooth.
State-of-the-art moisturizers: If you do use a moisturizer it should be filled to the brim with antioxidants, water-binding agents, and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Anything less leaves your skin incapable of warding off the environmental causes of dry skin.
Apply and reapply moisturizer: You can’t use too much when your skin is looking or feeling dry (this directive does not apply to those with oily skin). All skin types should be diligent about reapplying moisturizer every time hands are washed. Don’t forget to keep a moisturizer in your purse, at your desk, and in every bathroom in your home.
Avoid soap, use only gentle cleansers: This cannot be stressed enough. Never use a cleanser that is harsher on your skin than the weather outside, and that includes from the neck down. Do not scrub skin; you can’t scour away dry skin.
Avoid prolonged soaking in the bath tub or Jacuzzi, or taking long showers: As wonderful as a leisurely bath or shower feels, too much water is bad for skin. Inundating skin with water breaks down the substances that keep skin cells intact. Keep showers or baths short.
Get a humidifier: Low humidity is the cause of most weather-related dry skin, whether it is winter or a desert environment. Humidifiers are relatively inexpensive, last a long time, and work for the whole family. If you have a large home, you may need two or three humidifiers to gain benefit.
Avoid bath oils: It does not make much sense to pour bath oils into the bath water because most of the oil goes down the drain, and they make the bathtub slippery and dangerous. Bath oils also encourage you to soak for longer periods of time in the tub and that isn’t good for skin. Oils are best applied after bath or shower.
Exfoliate: I know this sounds strange, after all you want to keep your skin cells from becoming flaky, but a well-formulated AHA or BHA exfoliant can help cell turnover which is not the same as flaking skin or, at least it shouldn’t be. To help skin do what it should do all year long, namely, turn over the top layer and replace it with newer, smoother cells that can better protect skin, an AHA or BHA exfoliant is the way to get the job done. Regulated cell turn-over is a primary function of healthy skin, but due to sun damage (almost everyone has some amount of sun damage) skin needs help doing this efficiently. An exfoliant can assist beautifully.
Use olive oil: At night, over stubborn dry areas, after you’ve applied your moisturizer, massage a few drops of extra virgin olive oil on your skin. Olive oil is not only incredibly emollient (and it will absorb if you don’t use too much) it is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids, both great for skin.
Don’t forget your lips: Lips are the least capable of staying smooth and soft when the air becomes dry. They lack the lipids and cell structure the rest of the face has and, as a result, are far more vulnerable to the effect of dry air. During the day and night be sure to put an emollient lip gloss or lip balm on your lips. Be sure it doesn’t contain any irritating ingredients; peppermint and menthol can cause irritation and that won’t help dry lips.
Never use products that contain unnecessarily drying or irritating ingredients. But you already knew that one, right?
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Canadians recently got their first homeland exposure to the beauty emporium Sephora. The company opened its first Canadian shop in November 2004. Located in Toronto, the store has 5,100 square feet for shoppers to browse and offers an “unrivaled assortment” of brands (Source: The Rose Sheet, August 23, 2004, page 28). Assuming Canadians will embrace Sephora’s open-sell concept the way consumers in the United States and Europe have, we can expect to see more Canadian locations in the future. For our neighbors to the north who have not been to a Sephora store before, prepare to be impressed (and likely overwhelmed) by the number of choices and the low-key to nonexistent sales pressure.
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Dear Paula,
There is an article being circulated over the Internet that certain lipsticks contain lead, which is one of the ingredients that may cause cancer. Part of the message stated that “The higher the lead content, the greater the chance of causing cancer. After doing a test on lipsticks, it was found that the Yves Saint Laurent lipstick contained the largest amount of lead. Watch out for those lipsticks that are supposed to stay longer. If your lipstick stays longer, it is because of the higher content of lead. Here is the test you can do yourself, 1) Put some lipstick on your hand. 2) Use a 24k-14k gold ring to scratch on the lipstick. 3) If the lipstick color changes to black then you know the lipstick contains lead.”
I just wanted to know what your opinion is of this--is any of it true? Is it indeed harmful? I'm sure many women out there (including myself), end up accidentally ingesting minute quantities of lipstick every time we wear it.
Connie, via email
Dear Connie,
First, to be absolutely clear, lead is never added to lipstick! And beyond that, it is ludicrous to suggest lead has anything to do with long-wearing lipsticks, or that gold in any form can detect lead. Lead-based house paint, a major source of problems because of its lead content, can’t be detected by scratching it with anything. While Yves Saint Laurent lipsticks are overpriced, they do not contain lead.
The one iota of truth in this offensive and devious Internet email is that a minute amount of lead may be present in some dyes used in cosmetics. According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) there are trace amounts of lead in certain FD &C (Food, Drug and Cosmetic) coloring agents. FDA separates color additives into two categories: (1) colors that the agency certifies (derived primarily from petroleum and known as coal-tar dyes) and (2) colors that are exempted from certification but approved for use (obtained largely from mineral, plant, or animal sources). Only approved substances may be used to color foods, drugs, cosmetics, and medical devices.
The FDA requires coal-tar dye manufacturers to submit test samples from each batch of color produced. These are then tested to confirm that each batch of the color is within established specifications. These certified colors are listed on labels as FD &C, D&C, or external D&C. It is illegal to use the uncertified versions of color additives that require certification in foods, drugs, cosmetics, and medical devices. To ensure consumer safety, only certain dyes can be used around the mouth and around the eyes.
In regard to the gold-ring test, About.com’s Urban Legends section explains that “…rubbing various metals across lipstick smears made on sheets of white paper produced dark brown marks… The streaks that supposedly herald the presence of lead in one's lipstick are in reality dark marks produced by the testing agents themselves. Gold, silver, copper, and pewter leave these trails no matter what they're rubbed against, in the same way that pencils make marks on whatever surfaces they are trailed along.” (Source: http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl_lead_in_lipstick.htm)
About.com went further to expose one other relentless lipstick myth. Have you heard this one--that the average woman who wears lipstick throughout her life will ingest between 4 and 6 pounds of lipstick? The improbability of this tall (and stomach-turning) tale leaves no room for doubt: it isn’t possible. Think about it this way. The average tube of lipstick contains about 0.15 ounce of product, so if a woman were eating 5 pounds of the stuff, that would be the equivalent of 530 whole tubes. As About.com states, “The average woman isn't even likely to own [530] lipsticks during her lifetime, let alone use them right down to their nubs, with none of her lip rouge ever being kissed off, left on the edge of her coffee mug” or fork, spoon, or wiped off on a Kleenex.
One other point: lead does not cause cancer (though it is listed as a possible carcinogen from some sources). It does, however, cause brain and nerve damage, particularly in children (Sources: Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts13.html, and Cell Biology and Toxicology, 2002, volume 8, issue 5, pages 341–348).
An article in Consumer Reports (August 2003) suggests that scare-tactic emails repeatedly forwarded around the Internet are often a way for spammers to collect email addresses. Passing these lies around helps contribute to the nightmare known as spam. You can chalk this lipstick myth up to hundreds of others lurking around the Internet. When bizarre, unsubstantiated information like this comes your way, two of the best sources for finding out the truth are www.snopes.com/toxins/lipstick.asp and http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl_lead_in_lipstick.htm.
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Hundreds of New Product Reviews Posted
Check out the hundreds of new hair-care product reviews recently added to my extensive online library of product reviews. Search for the products you are considering here. |
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New Constant Color Lip Paint
Easy to control and quick to dry, this unique cream-liquid lipstick glides on beautifully and delivers a smooth finish that lasts and lasts while still keeping lips comfortably soft. Find out more here.
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