IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY VIEWING IMAGES IN THIS EMAIL, GO TO HTTP://WWW.COSMETICSCOP.COM/BULLETIN/012606-full.HTM New Year, New You Sale Resolve to have beautiful skin in 2006 and save money in the process! Shop now and save 10%. *No cash value. Retail customers only. Not valid on gift certificates. Cannot be combined with other discounts. Offer expires 2/28/06. Dr. Denese New York This new skin-care line is, without question, the one most requested for review by my readers, primarily due to its prominence on QVC's Web site and home shopping program. A graduate of New York's Cornell Medical College, Dr. Adrienne Denese opened an anti-aging clinic in Manhattan shortly after completing her studies. The clinic has been extremely successful, to the point where creating her own products to make sure her skin-care advice was taken became a necessity (at least according to her). Dr. Denese has written a book, Dr. Denese's Secrets for Ageless Skin: Younger Skin in 8 Weeks, on how to take care of your skin. Her book is much like Dr. Perricone's book, The Wrinkle Cure, which promises to get rid of your wrinkles. Further similarity lies in the lack of supporting research or studies in either book. Neither Dr. Perricone nor Dr. Denese source their information, and more often than not, there is no research or supporting studies to be found. We are just supposed to take their word for everything they say. Ah, the omnipotence of doctors. Ironically, her product line (sold exclusively on QVC) makes much more sense than a lot of what she writes in her book. There are some remarkably state-of-the-art products, and the prices, though somewhat steep, aren't unreasonable. As is true for most skin-care lines (including those from dermatologists), there are shortcomings and missteps along with good products. For those who choose the best of what Dr. Denese has to offer, the rewards will be smiling at them in the mirror each day (though please don't take that to mean your wrinkles will be gone)! [The entire Dr. Denese New York review (including a more in-depth analysis of her claims) is available in my January/February 2006 issue of Cosmetics Counter Update, available here. ]  Hydrating Cleanser ($22 for 6 ounces) is a simply formulated, detergent-based cleanser that contains borage oil to soften skin and facilitate makeup removal. The big-deal ingredients that supposedly justify the price include coenzyme Q10, vitamin A, and vitamin E. The vitamins are barely present in this cleanser and the CoQ10 is completely absent, which is just strange. However, even if it were present, neither the CoQ10 nor the other vitamins can have a positive effect on the skin because when they are present in a cleanser, they are rinsed off before they have a chance to have an impact. So, paying extra for such bells and whistles isn't necessary. Regardless, this is still a good cleanser for normal to slightly dry skin.  Doctor's Microdermabrasion Cream ($34.90 for 4 ounces) sounds medicinally superior because of the "doctor's" designation, but it isn't. This is a doctor's skin-care line, but as you will see, that distinction is not a guarantee of formulary excellence. Unlike most microdermabrasion scrubs, which contain aluminum oxide crystals, Dr. Denese opted to use pumice, one of the more abrasive scrub agents available. The base formula has sufficient oil and emollients to prevent the pumice from being too rough on skin, but between this and the various AHA peels in this line, we're talking potential exfoliation overload. This product also contains small amounts of several irritating plant extracts. If you're looking for a topical scrub, the microdermabrasion-in-a-jar versions from Neutrogena, Susan Lucci's Youthful Essence, Clinique, and Olay Regenerist are better and less expensive. But remember, simply using a washcloth with your cleanser can easily net the same results.  Firming Facial Pads ($35 for 60 pads) have a pH of 3.5 and contain approximately 10% glycolic acid in a water-based solution that is delivered to the skin when you wipe the pad over your face. These pads will exfoliate skin, but they tend to leave a sticky finish, and the inclusion of irritating menthol is senseless. Given the poor aesthetics, the menthol, the price, and the fact that many effective AHA products have superior formulas, you needn't add this to your cart.  HydroShield Eye Serum ($44 for 0.5 ounce) contains silicone, antioxidants, ceramides, retinol, several fatty acids, and preservatives. This fragrance-free serum is an outstanding formulation that is recommended for all skin types. It may be used around the eyes or anywhere on the face. Its lightweight texture and matte finish make it well-suited for those with oily skin looking for the benefits of antioxidants and retinol without heaviness. This is a product any dermatologist would be proud of! Bain de Terre  Fine Solutions Cleansing Shampoo ($12.50 for 10.1 ounces) contains not only irritating TEA-lauryl sulfate as its main detergent cleansing agent, but also has a higher-than-usual amount of peppermint oil, neither of which will stimulate healthy hair growth (though they could cause scalp irritation). This shampoo is not recommended for any hair type. Clarins  True Comfort Foundation SPF 15 ($35.50) is marvelous in every respect except for sun protection—an omission that prevents it from earning a Paula's Pick rating. Without titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone listed as active ingredients, you need to pair this makeup with another sunscreen that contains UVA-protecting ingredients. If you have normal to dry skin and don't mind the aforementioned pairing, you will be pleased with this foundation's lightweight yet creamy texture, its superb blendability, and its satin finish, which lends a radiant glow to skin. Coverage goes from light to medium and nine of the ten shades are remarkably neutral, though there are no options for darker skin. Only Tender Gold stands out as being a bit too peach, but it may be an option for some medium tones. Clarins has been doing a commendable job with each successive foundation they've launched. If they'd start including reliable sunscreens for UVA protection, they would be that much closer to the best of the best. N.V. Perricone  Olive Oil Polyphenols Hydrating Nutrient Mask ($65 for 2 ounces) is, with the exception of olive oil, short on significant amounts of antioxidants. Since this product is packaged in a jar and, therefore, is not airtight, the effectiveness of the small amount of antioxidants present is lost soon after the product is opened. It contains plenty of rich emollients and certainly can help make dryness less of a problem. However, considering you can get similar benefits from plain olive oil or evening primrose oil, and the lack of airtight packaging, I suggest thinking twice before investing in this product. The Open Jar Symbol Explained Some of you may have noticed a new symbol that is appearing on skin-care and makeup products. It is an open jar with a number followed by the letter "M," which refers to the Latin word "menses," which is "month" in English. The symbol is referred to as Period After Opening (PAO), and is a new system devised by the European Union's cosmetics regulatory branch. The symbol is not required for cosmetic products sold in the United States or Canada, but if a cosmetics company wishes to sell its products in countries belonging to the 25 member nations of the European Union, it is, with only a few exceptions (explained below), a mandatory labeling requirement. The purpose of this symbol is to give consumers an idea of how long the product can be safely used (or used "without causing harm") after it is opened. Your first question (mine too) may be, How is this time period determined? Therein lies a tale about the convoluted nature of this piece of cosmetics legislation. All reputable cosmetics companies (mine included) put their products through a standard battery of stability tests before they put them on the market. These tests include exposing the product to cycles of temperature extremes, testing the effectiveness of the chosen preservative system over time, testing the product in its chosen packaging, and patch-testing it on human volunteers to ascertain irritancy or to reveal unforeseen complications. However, there is actually no official methodology for such tests. The EU has not established a system for cosmetics companies to determine a PAO date. As a result, the PAO date doesn't take into account how the consumer uses the product or how it is stored. Ironically, those two factors are critical to prolonging or reducing a product's integrity and inherent stability. For example, let's say two women purchase the same moisturizer. It is packaged in a jar. One woman lives in a humid climate, stores her moisturizer on her bathroom counter in direct light, doesn't wash her hands before using the product, and rarely puts the cap back securely on the jar. The other woman lives in a temperate climate (or has air conditioning), stores the moisturizer in a dark cupboard or drawer, always washes her hands before applying the product, and always tightly secures the cap after each use. Given these two examples of product usage, it is understandable how one would last longer than the other. The PAO date does not take into consideration how (or how often) the product is used. As shown in the example above, consumer habits vary so dramatically that establishing a specific date after which a cosmetic product may become harmful is, at best, an educated guess, and at worst, a useless endeavor. More to the point, as consumers, how many of us document (or even remember) the date we began using a cosmetic product? Regardless of stability, a product is exempt* from carrying a PAO date if it meets the following criteria: Any product packaged so there is no contact between the contained product and the external environment (e.g., sealed, pressurized products like aerosol hairspray) Single-use products, such as capsules A product incapable of causing risk or harm to the consumer *This is the opinion of the European Union Commission; only the Courts can determine (case by case) if it is true. After learning this, I was left wondering why the EU would authorize the PAO system. In real-world terms, it is of little use because the dates over which a product is supposedly safe to use cannot be definitively determined via scientific methods. A cosmetics company's record of stability testing is a reasonable safety measure to fall back on, but that type of controlled testing does not correlate with the different ways thousands of consumers may use a particular product. It seems the PAO program was a political compromise to get the European Union Cosmetic Directive Seventh Amendment passed. The question left unanswered is one often posed to me by my readers: Just how long after a skin-care or makeup product is opened does it remain safe and effective? Despite this, the PAO labeling system can serve as a helpful reminder of when to use or dispose of your personal-care products, assuming you keep track of when you begin using each product and take care to store it in ideal conditions. I doubt most consumers will be that vigilant, but for those who take the time to be vigilant, a product's PAO date is a decent (though imperfect) guideline. Special thanks to David C. Steinberg, President, Steinberg & Associates Inc., and Regulatory Consultant to the Personal Care Industry in the United States, Canada, and the European Union for his contributions to this article. Having a bad experience at a spa is so disappointing! But now if you've been to a spa and felt the treatment or service performed was not up to par, you can complain anonymously at www.spacomplaints.com. This Web site is owned and operated by Spaquality LLC, a company that certifies spas and offers educational information on how spas can improve their business and services. For those who leave the spa feeling rejuvenated and that the experience was time (and money) well spent, they can go to www.spacompliments.com to spread the good word. Either way, this is an excellent resource dedicated to encouraging spa–client dialogue and improving the way thousands of spas conduct business and cater to their clientele. Dear Paula, If I want to simplify my beauty routine, or for other reasons, I sometimes mix my products together. For example, I will mix 10% benzoyl peroxide gel with my normal moisturizer for a 2.5% anti-acne medication. Or, I add a couple drops of pure salicylic acid to a benzoyl peroxide product. Occasionally, I add some milk of magnesia to my sunscreen or to my nighttime moisturizer if I want to control oil, or I add a couple drops of glycerin if I find a product is too drying. But I'm wondering: Can I do that? I mean, can salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide coexist in one product? Does adding something to sunscreen mess up its protection? Can that be counteracted by adding a squirt of, say, a sunscreen with SPF 50? If a toner had a good pH, and I added a couple drops of salicylic acid, would it still be stable? I haven't tried all of these yet, but am quite enjoying being a cosmetic chemist in my own bathroom. Lizzie, via email Dear Lizzie, Although I admire your ingenuity in thinking about cosmetics, I must advise that what you're doing is indeed affecting the stability, performance, and safety of the products you're experimenting with. The answer to the question of "Can I do that?" is yes, of course you can—but it doesn't mean you should, or at least no more than if you were to add some lavender oil to your hair dye to reduce the ammonia-like odor. Cosmetics chemistry is as much art as it is science. Adding ingredients to finished products in an effort to create an enhanced version or to alter the original function won't necessarily blow up in your face, but you are negating the effectiveness of the very ingredients that could be helping your skin. For example, salicylic acid (BHA) must be in a base that has a certain pH range if it is going to exfoliate skin. Mixing it into a product with a pH above that range will not produce the results you're looking for, and may cause undue irritation. According to the chemists I spoke to, salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide don't coexist well in the same product because they need different pH ranges for optimal effectiveness. In addition, the FDA does not permit both active ingredients in one product, which explains why no company is making a BHA/benzoyl peroxide solution (Source: Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Volume 5, April 1, 2005). Furthermore, how do you figure that adding a 10% benzoyl peroxide product to a moisturizer will result in a 2.5% concentration? It might, but unless you break down the formula in a lab, the final percentage is a guess, even if any benzoyl peroxide survives. Milk of magnesia is an effective absorbent for excess oil, but adding it to a moisturizer defeats the purpose because it also "absorbs" the oil-soluble ingredients in the moisturizer, which in turn reduces its oil-absorbing ability on your skin. Mixing an oil-absorbing agent with a moisturizer is sort of like thinking you're eating healthy if you sprinkle some flax seeds on your doughnut. As for adding ingredients to sunscreens, yes, doing so will disrupt the level of protection it was designed to supply. You can "counteract" this by mixing in a sunscreen with a higher SPF number, but the bottom line is that if you do so routinely, it will keep you in the dark about just how much sun protection you're getting. Adding SPF 50 to an SPF 8 product does not net SPF 58, though the protection provided is certainly better than applying an SPF 8 alone. Adding salicylic acid to a sunscreen is a problem, again because of the pH factor. Sunscreens need a pH range of 5 to 8 to be most effective. Given that salicylic acid requires a much lower pH range to be effective, adding it to a sunscreen does nothing but lower the level of protection the sunscreen should provide, and that's not good news for your skin. The only type of mixing I generally encourage is when you have a need for a richer moisturizer, perhaps due to seasonal dryness. In that case, it is fine to add a few drops of glycerin and, say, olive or jojoba oil, to your regular moisturizer. However, to avoid affecting the stability of the ingredients in the entire container of product, be sure to do the mixing in your hand, or apply the oil over the moisturizer directly onto your skin. 2 New Super Antioxidant Concentrates Paula's Choice new Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate for normal to very dry skin and Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate for normal to oily skin are both loaded with antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and anti-irritants to help protect and nourish skin, and their exquisite textures help the skin types they were designed for look beautifully smooth and healthy. Find out more here. Tell a friend about the Beauty Bulletin! Email Addresses: Subject: Message: I think you'll like this Beauty Bulletin. It's free and includes a lot of great articles and money-saving tips! Sign up for your own free subscription at www.CosmeticsCop.com Remember to add the Beauty Bulletin (beautybulletin@cosmeticscop.com) to your Address Book (and "Buddy" or "People I Know" lists for AOL users or Safe List for Hotmail users) to continue receiving our emails. SUBSCRIBE    Manage Your Subscriptions     Unsubscribe    Read Beauty Bulletin FAQs View our privacy policy. ©2006 Paula's Choice, Inc. 1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A, Renton, WA 98055-4813. (800) 831-4088. All rights reserved.