October 2007
BEST
Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelash Conditioner ($160.00 for .23 ounce) is a star product for Marini, and one I did not review favorably in my newsletter because the company was not forthcoming about what was in the product, which caused quite a bit of controversy, at least behind the scenes. That has since changed. Early versions of this product were labeled Age Intervention Eyelash, sold with amazing claims, and listed "eyelash growth factor" (which isn't an ingredient but a made-up name) instead of the chemical compound, leaving users in the dark about what was in it, and thus making it impossible for me to accurately review the product. Marini and team eventually changed the claims, packaging, and name of this product, which led to the revelation of what eyelash growth factor really is.

My assistant had an eye-opening discussion with Marini herself about this product, and although most if it was off the record, the bottom line is, despite tempered claims, that this product stands a very good chance of making eyelashes longer and darker. It contains mostly water, water-binding agents, pH adjuster, slip agent, preservative, film-forming agents, and the "active" ingredient, which is listed as 7-(3, 5-dihydroxy-2-(3-hydroxy-4-(3-(triflormethyl) phenoxy)-1-butenyl) cyclopentyl), N-ethyl, )1R-(alpha(Z), 2beta (1E,3R), 3alpha, 5alpha)).

What is this nearly indecipherable ingredient? It is similar to a class of ingredients known as prostaglandin analogues. These drugs, including latanoprost, bimatoprost, and travoprost, are used to treat eye health problems such as glaucoma or ocular hypertension. One of the common side-effects of ocular administration of eye drops containing prostaglandin analogues is growth and darkening of the eyelashes.

It wasn't much of a stretch (though a novel one) to assume that topical application of a very low dose of these drugs might have a similar effect, and that perhaps a non-drug version could be created for cosmetic purposes to enhance the appearance of eyelashes. Age Intervention Eyelash Conditioner is applied once per day, and goes on just like liquid eyeliner (minus color). Although Marini does not position this product as being able to grow eyelashes, thus avoiding costly drug testing, research on the prostaglandin analogues' effect on eyelash growth is intriguing. The "active" ingredient listed above is, according to Marini, a customized analogue her lab worked on, and is not a drug. It is chemically similar to prescription prostaglandin analogues, which is why it should work for most people, although how well it works may vary, so keep your expectations realistic. It is also important to note that results take several weeks to become visible and ongoing use is required to maintain the results.

(Sources for the above information: Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology, November 2006, pages 755–764; www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/druginfo/medmaster/a602027.html; http://dermatology.cdlib.org/93/commentary/alopecia/wolf.html; www.medscape.com/viewarticle/443657; and Drugs of Today, January 2003, pages 61–74).

The company reports that one tube of this product lasts six months, a statement I have personally found to be accurate. If this works for you, it could be argued that approximately $27 per month is a small price to pay for longer, fuller lashes. Despite my enthusiasm for this product, many of today's mascaras can produce prodigiously long, thick lashes without the expense and routine use this product calls for. Still, if it works for you, it's possible you will need less mascara or a less dramatic formula or you might get better results with the mascara you are currently using, which reduces the chance of mascara flaking, clumping, or smearing. Without a doubt, this is one of the most unusual products reviewed in my upcoming book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, 7th Edition.

WORST
TRACIE MARTYN Amla Purifying Cleanser ($65.00 for 1.7 ounces) almost leaves me speechless—not only for its outrageous price, but also for its nearly do-nothing formula, which has minimal cleansing ability and maximum potential for irritation from spearmint, lime, and "other essential oils." Alma extract is the second ingredient, and you may be wondering what that is. Also known as Indian gooseberry, it has a variety of anecdotal uses, mostly when consumed as part of the diet. There is no research pertaining to this extract’s benefit for skin, but it is suspected to have antioxidant and antimicrobial activity (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Even if those traits were proven beyond a doubt, their benefit in a cleanser is minimal because they are just rinsed down the drain. This barely passable cleanser is an inane waste of money.