November 2009

 $$$ Trish McEvoy Correct & Brighten Loose Mineral Powder SPF 15 ($35). Apparently, this loose powder mineral makeup was added to McEvoy’s line after her dermatologist husband’s patients begged to take this post-procedure powder home due to its perceived effect on their skin. From my perspective, regardless of how this came to be, it’s one of the best mineral makeups with sunscreen to consider. The sole active ingredient is zinc oxide, which is great. I don’t know how they did it, but given that 25% of this formula is zinc oxide it’s surprising that this doesn’t look opaque or heavy on skin. It has a sumptuous, silky texture that blends with an ease few mineral makeups (at least those with zinc oxide) do. You get a soft, matte (in feel) finish with a subtle radiant glow (without sparkles, another nice touch). Unlike some mineral makeups that go on opaque and thus provide significant coverage, this has a sheer, soft-focus effect that won’t hide major discolorations or blemishes easily. It layers well for added coverage, but that increases the odds that this will look too powdery and dry. The formula contains some anti-irritants, too, and is fragrance-free. It is best for normal to slightly oily skin, and would make a wonderful finishing powder to use over your foundation with sunscreen. This mineral foundation is definitely suitable for those with rosacea. All four shades are excellent and best for light to medium skin tones.

WORST
 Eve Lom Cleanser ($95 for 3.3 ounces/ £46.98 for 100ml). This is the cleanser that Vogue magazine heralded as “probably the best cleanser in the world”. Sigh. All I can say is that whoever made that impressive-sounding statement has no idea of what constitutes a good cleanser. Where to begin....this oil-based cleanser comes in a jar, so it’s messy to use, not to mention greasy (though it does remove all types of makeup). The core emollient ingredients couldn’t be more basic and make the price for this cleanser an utter embarrassment. I applaud the fact that this contains soothing chamomile oil, but it will be fighting against the consistent shock of irritation the clove and eucalyptus oils will cause. These fragrant oils are potent irritants, and they’re joined by irritating fragrance chemicals such as eugenol and isoeugenol. None of this is good news for any skin type, and this cleanser would be wholly problematic if used around the eyes. Make not mistake: regardless of Lom’s reputation as a master esthetician, this cleanser will hurt your skin and cause inflammation which makes it look older.