May 2009

 $$$ DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy for Dry Skin ($36 for 4 ounces). This body moisturizer is designed for those struggling with a skin condition known as keratosis pilaris (KP). This benign condition is characterized by red, raised bumps on skin covering the upper arms, legs, and buttocks. Although there isn’t a cure for KP, gentle cleansing, disinfecting with benzoyl peroxide, and exfoliating with a well-formulated AHA or BHA product can make a remarkable difference in the severity and appearance of these bumps. This product contains the AHA glycolic acid (approximately 10%) to exfoliate skin and its pH is low enough for exfoliation to occur, although salicylic acid (BHA) is preferred for KP because it is oil-soluble and can penetrate into the pore where the problem begins. On the other hand, some people find that their KP responds just as well to exfoliation with AHAs. It is best to experiment to find which option works best for you (Source: http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1070651-treatment).

That said, KP Duty Moisturizing Therapy for Dry Skin is an excellent AHA body moisturizer for normal to dry skin needing exfoliation (whether KP is present or not). It contains an impressive amount of antioxidant green tea extract and its urea content will help boost skin’s moisture levels and improve barrier function. Those looking for the same level of effectiveness for less money may want to consider my Paula’s Choice Skin Revealing Body Lotion with 10% AHA.

WORST
 Pevonia Botanica Spa Teen Blemished Skin Toner ($20 for 4 ounces). Does this toner have what it takes for teens struggling with blemishes? No, it doesn’t—not even close. Rather than formulate a toner with an effective amount of salicylic acid or perhaps the topical disinfectant benzoyl peroxide or even a potentially effective amount of tea tree oil, Pevonia includes drying, irritating witch hazel extract and irritating citrus oils. Lime and lemon are natural, but they have no benefit when it comes to any skin type, and especially not acne-prone skin. Citrus causes irritation, which doesn’t make acne-prone skin look better, and the irritation stimulates the pore to produce more oil. This toner does contain salicylic acid along with the AHA lactic acid, but the combined amount is less than 1%, and the pH of the toner isn’t low enough for them to work against acne.