March 2007
BEST
Kiehl's Over-Night Biological Peel ($40.00 for 1.7 ounces) is supposed to be as potent as a 10% glycolic acid product, but it contains no alpha hydroxy acids, or beta hydroxy acid for that matter. Instead, this water- and silicone-based fluid contains urea, which is indeed an exfoliant, albeit a far less sexier version than AHAs or BHA, as it is derived from urine. Urea definitely has exfoliating and water-binding properties when used on skin, and unlike AHAs and BHA, its efficacy is not pH-dependent. Much as AHAs do, it can cause a stinging sensation upon application. Urea can be beneficial for those with dry skin because, although the manner in which it works isn’t fully understood, it has proven to be very effective for reducing moisture loss from the epidermis (Source: Dry Skin and Moisturizers Chemistry and Function, Loden & Maibach, 2000, pages 235–236). Kiehl’s ingredient list also points to HEPES as an enzyme activator. However, this ingredient (hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid) functions as a buffering agent, which should help reduce any potential irritation from the urea. Although this peel is pricey and not necessarily superior to an AHA (or BHA) product, it is nevertheless a novel approach to exfoliating skin if you’re curious to try something different, or if your skin has not responded favorably to AHA products. Find It

WORST
Origins Youthtopia Skin Firming Cream with Rhodiola ($47.50 for 1.7 ounces). I have to hand it to Origins for coming up with some of the most clever product names around, because they convey a sense of cuteness along with a benefit. I wish what was inside the jars was just as clever, because—despite some very good ingredients—Origins’ penchant for potent, skin-sensitizing essential oils makes almost all of their products too irritating for skin, as is the case with this moisturizer. It contains sandalwood, geranium, orange, patchouli, cinnamon, nutmeg, and thyme oils, all of which present problems for skin and won’t do a thing to help it regain its youthful appearance.