December 2009

 $$$ DERMAdoctor Immaculate Correction Potent Hydroquinone-Free Skin Brightener ($62 for 1.7 ounces). This is an intriguing product to consider if you have skin discolorations and cannot (or do not want to) use a lightener with hydroquinone as the active ingredient. Dr. Kunin, the dermatologists behind the DERMAdoctor line, has blended small amounts of several ingredients with research (admittedly not a lot of research, at least compared to hydroquinone) showing they can interrupt the process in skin that leads to the appearance of discolorations. Chief among these non-hydroquinone lightening agents is azelaic acid. The problem is that research on this ingredient as it pertains to skin lightening involved a much higher concentration (20%) than Kunin used (Source: Cutis, January 1996, pages 33-45). However, it’s possible that the small amount of azelaic acid combined with the plant extracts may indeed prompt some improvement in discolorations. Given the wealth of published research on hydroquinone, I wouldn’t recommend this over a well-formulated product that contains this melanin inhibitor, but Immaculate Correction has potential and is worth a try as long as you’re willing to be diligent about daily sun protection. For best results, you may want to combine use of this fragrance-free product with a prescription retinoid (such as tretinoin, the active ingredient in Renova and Refissa).

WORST
 Kiehl’s Açaí Damage-Correcting Moisturizer ($44 for 2.5 ounces). This moisturizer follows the formulary pattern of many others in the L’Oreal stable (Kiehl’s is a L’Oreal brand). The formula is mostly water, alcohol, plant oils, and thickeners. The amount of alcohol is cause for concern because it’s quite likely to cause irritation and free-radical damage. The main plant oils are of the non-fragrant variety, but their effectiveness on dry skin is muted due to the prevalence of alcohol. Adding to this problem is the inclusion of irritating rosemary and lavender oils. This contains the antioxidant fruit açai, but given the detrimental ingredients in this moisturizer, so what?