Introduction

The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role to Help Skin Look its Best
Green Tea
Soy Isoflavones/Extract
Pomegranate
Ceramides
Linoleic/Linolenic Acids/ Phospholipids

Green Tea

What it does: Green tea is one of the most commonly used antioxidants, and for good reason. It works beautifully to reduce inflammation, provides powerful antioxidant benefits, and can reduce the harmful effects of sun exposure.

Why it's on the B-list: Current research indicates that epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), an extract of green tea, can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to skin. EGCG also has been shown to inhibit several types of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), which means that EGCG can protect skin from aging. Green tea is easy to find in skin-care products, but you need to make sure it's present in a sufficient amount (if it is listed after the fragrance or preservatives, it likely won't amount to much for your skin). Studies on animals have shown that green tea also has an anticancer/antitumor effect on multiple organs, including skin. Ongoing studies are looking into this link with humans; it is possible that green tea may prove a potent ally in the fight against skin cancer.

Researched Sources: Histology and Histopathology, April 2008, pages 487-496; Food Chemistry and Toxicology, December 2007, E-publication; Journal of Medicinal Food, June 2007, pages 337-344; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, February 2007, pages 48-56; and Journal of Dermatological Science, December 2005, pages 195-204.

Recommended Products with Green Tea: Good Skin All Firm Rebuilding Serum ($25 for 1 ounce); Dove Essential Nutrients Day Lotion SPF 15 ($6.59 for 4.05 ounces) find; Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Original Formula ($11.99 for 1.4 ounces) find; Mary Kay SPF 30 Sunscreen ($14 for 4 ounces) find; Estee Lauder Fruition Extra Multi-Action Complex ($46.50 for 1 ounce) find; Clinique Advanced Stop Signs ($38.50 for 1.7 ounces) find; Paula's Choice BHA products (various formulas; $17.95 for 4 ounces) find, Super Antioxidant Concentrate ($22.95) find, Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner ($14.95 for 6 ounces) find, and Healthy Skin Refreshing Toner ($14.95 for 6 ounces) find; and DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy for Dry Skin ($36 for 4 ounces) find. For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Soy Isoflavones/Extract

What they do: Soy and its components are reliable antioxidants for skin, and have proven anti-inflammatory effects, which reduce signs of irritation.

Why they're on the B-list: The increased use of soy extract in anti-aging products is largely due to studies showing that genistein (a component of soy) has a collagen-stimulating effect and that various compounds in soy affect skin thickness and elasticity. Other studies have shown that applying soy extract to animal skin and reconstituted human skin mitigates UVB damage and prevents DNA damage. Any ingredient that protects skin from UV light is worth seeking out!

Researched Sources: Carcinogenesis, August 2006, pages 1627-1635; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 2005, pages 1049-1059; Cancer Investigation, 1996, volume 14, number 6, pages 597-608; Oncology Research, volume 14, numbers 7/8, 2004, pages 387-397; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 2002, pages 175-183; Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2002, pages 45-50; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine, April 2003, page 56; and Journal of Cosmetic Science , September-October 2004, pages 473-479).

Recommended Products with Soy: DDF Silky C Serum ($72 for 1 ounce) find; MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Antioxidant Firming Serum ($95 for 1 ounce) find and Hydra-Pure Oil-Free Moisture ($75 for 1 ounce) find; Aveeno Skin Brightening Daily Treatment SPF 15 ($19 for 1 ounce) find; and Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate ($22.95) find and Skin Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask ($12.95 for 4 ounces) find;  For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me .


Pomegranate

What it does: Pomegranate and its extracts have antioxidant and anticancer properties that, while not conclusively demonstrated on human skin, show promise in animal and in vitro studies.

Why it's on the B-list: Pomegranate is rich in phytochemicals, compounds that exhibit a wide range of beneficial effects, particularly when consumed orally. Topical application of products containing pomegranate may improve the appearance of wrinkled skin by reducing inflammation and forestalling further damage. Research has also shown that an extract from pomegranate peel has an inhibitory effect on collagen-depleting MMP-1.

Researched Sources: International Journal of Cancer, January 2005, pages 423-433; Journal of Medicinal Food, Fall 2003, 157-161; Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, January 2002, pages 81-86, and pages 166-171; International Journal of Oncology, May 2002, pages 983-986; and www.naturaldatabase.com.

Recommended Products with Pomegranate: Paula's Choice HydraLight Moisture-Infusing Lotion, for Normal to Oily/Combination Skin ($18.95 for 2 ounces) find; Aloette Advanced Eye Recovery Complex ($54.95 for 0.5 ounce); Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate Recovery Boosting Treatment ($85 for 1 ounce) find; Prescriptives Super Line Preventor Xtreme ($47.50 for 1 ounce) find; Murad Vitalic Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 ($30 for 2 ounces) find; and Borba Clarifying Complexion Shield SPF 15 ($25 for 3.4 ounces) find. For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Ceramides

What they do: Ceramides are part of skin's intercellular matrix, the "glue" that holds skin cells together and helps skin maintain its appearance. When the skin's barrier is compromised by damage from the sun, climate, irritating procedures or products, or other sources, the level of ceramides decreases. The skin's ceramide content can be replenished by using products that contain ceramides.

Why they're on the B-list: Skin as a barrier system inhibits water movement via its extracellular matrix, which has a unique composition of approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. Ceramides and other skin-identical ingredients are key elements in keeping skin of any age looking and feeling its best. Along with ceramides, look for moisturizers that contain glycerin, triglycerides, cholesterol, glycosaminoglycans, and/or polysaccharides. All of these ingredients help reinforce skin's intercellular matrix and improve its elasticity.

Researched Sources: Journal of Lipid Research, September 2007; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, January 2006, pages 232-238; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1126-1136; and Experimental Dermatology, October 2005, pages 719-726.

Recommended Products with Ceramides: Pond's Radiance Restore, Age-Defying Skin-Brightening SPF 15 Moisturizer ($12.99 for 1.7 ounces); Dr. Denese New York HydroSeal Hand & Decollete Serum ($35 for 3 ounces); Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules ($68 for 0.95 ounce) find; MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Lotion ($50 for 1 ounce) find; SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% Pure Retinol ($42 for 1 ounce) find; CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion ($12.99 for 12 ounces) find and Moisturizing Cream ($14.99 for 16 ounces) find; Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream ($16.95 for 2 ounces) find and Skin Balancing Toner ($14.95 for 6 ounces) find; and Osmotics TriCeram ($30 for 3.4 ounces) find. For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Linoleic/Linolenic Acids/ Phospholipids

What they do: All of these fatty acids replenish skin's intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to "tell" the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner.

Why they're on the B-list: Linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid that has some research showing it to be effective in cell regulation and skin-barrier repair, as well as acting as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory. Oral consumption of foods rich in linoleic acid has been shown to make aging skin less dry. Linolenic acid is an omega-3 fatty acid that, in addition to supplementing skin's intercellular matrix, may also enhance its immune function and encourage healing. Phospholipids (such as lecithin) are essential to the function of cell membranes because they provide a stable surrounding structure. Applied to skin, phospholipids not only have a moisturizing effect, but also help signal skin to repair itself and build a stronger barrier to offset external irritants.

Researched Sources: American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, October 2007, pages 1225-1231; Archives of Dermatological Research, July 1998, pages 375-381; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, March 1998, pages 56-58; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, May 1996, pages 1096-1101, and July 2001, pages 44-51; Seminars in Dermatology, June 1992, pages 169-175; and www.naturaldatabase.com.

Recommended Products with Linoleic/Linolenic Acids or Phospholipids: Dove Energy Glow Brightening Moisturizer SPF 15 ($10.99 for 1.7 ounces); Kiss My Face Face Factor Face + Neck SPF 30 ($10 for 2 ounces) find; Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream, for Normal to Dry Skin ($16.95 for 2 ounces) find; Pond's Mend & Defend, Intensive Protection SPF 15 Moisturizer ($9.39 for 3.3 ounces) find; Estee Lauder DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 15, for Oily Skin ($38 for 1.7 ounces) find and Hydra Complete Multi-Level Moisture Lotion, for Normal/Combination Skin ($40 for 1.7 ounces) find; Dr. Denese New York HydroShield Ultra Moisturizing Face Serum ($49 for 0.5 ounce); Good Skin Tri-Aktiline Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler ($39.50 for 1 ounce); Avon Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 ($12 for 4 ounces) find; Clinique Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate for Face and Eyes ($55 for 1.4 ounces) find; and Prescriptives Intensive Rebuilding Lotion ($80 for 1.7 ounces) find. For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.