Introduction
The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin
The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role
The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin
Glycolic or Lactic Acids (Topical Exfoliants)Salicylic AcidRetinolVitamin CVitamin ENiacinamideSunscreen Actives
Glycolic or Lactic Acids (Topical Exfoliants)
What they do: For all skin types, it is extremely helpful to exfoliate the surface layers of skin. Whether you use a product with glycolic or lactic acids (or a blend) these alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) work to unglue the outer layer of dead skin cells, helping increase cell turnover by removing the built-up top layers of skin, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Exfoliation helps reduce skin discolorations, gives skin a smoother texture, and improves how skin functions. Glycolic and lactic acids also have water-binding properties, making them beneficial for improving dry skin. There also is a good deal of research showing that use of a well-formulated AHA product can increase collagen production.
Why they're on the A-list: Removing built-up layers of dead skin cells improves skin texture and color, unclogs pores, and allows moisturizers and serums to be better absorbed by the skin. AHAs affect the top layers of skin. They help improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin, dry skin, and thickened skin caused by a variety of factors, including abnormal cell growth, smoking, and heavy moisturizers. Reminder: Sun damage in particular causes the top layer of skin to thicken, creating a dull, rough texture and appearance on the surface. AHAs nicely remove this thickened layer, revealing the more normal-appearing skin cells underneath. However, removing this layer of thickened, abnormal skin from the surface means that the fresh skin beneath is more vulnerable to sun damage (just as skin was when you were younger), so don't forget that you must use sunscreen each day, and when it comes to getting a tan-Forget about it!
AHAs in skin-care products are safe and effective in concentrations ranging from 5% to 15%.
Sources: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156-1162; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111-119; Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404-409; and Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573-577.
A-List Products with Glycolic Acid: Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Hydrating Gel ($48 for 2 ounces); Paula's Choice 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel, for All Skin Types ($17.95 for 4 ounces) find it; Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion, Night ($12.59 for 2.5 ounces); and Ultraceuticals Ultra Ace Hydration Booster ($50 for 2.5 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Salicylic Acid
What it does: Salicylic acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid [BHA]) works in a fashion similar to glycolic and lactic acids (AHA), but BHA is preferred for those dealing with blackheads and acne. This is because of BHA's four-pronged benefit: (1) it exfoliates the surface of skin (like AHAs), (2) it can penetrate through the oil in the pore (because it is lipid soluble) and exfoliate the lining of the pore, unclogging debris that can lead to blemishes, (3) it has antibacterial properties so it 
kill acne-causing bacteria, and (4) it has anti-inflammatory properties so it helps the skin heal and repair itself.
Why it's on the A-list: Just like a well-formulated AHA product, ongoing use of a salicylic acid exfoliant will improve skin's appearance in numerous ways, whether blemishes are present or not. In terms of wrinkle reduction, salicylic acid can increase collagen production, smooth superficial lines, reduce redness, and diminish sun-induced discolorations. Salicylic acid is available in skin-care products in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%.
Researched Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, January 2008, pages 45-50; Archives of Internal Medicine, July 2002, pages 1531-1532; Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, January 2002, pages 137-142; Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390-1395; Preservatives for Cosmetics, 1996, by David Steinberg, Allured Publishing; Health Canada Monograph Category IV, Antiseptic Cleansers, at www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/; Dermatology, 1999, volume 199, number 1, pages 50-53; and Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, volume 175, issue 1, pages 76-82.)
A-List Products with Salicylic Acid: Bare Escentuals bareVitamins Skin Rev-er Upper ($21 for 2.3 ounces); Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment ($7.99 for 2 ounces); Paula's Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel ($17.95 for 4 ounces) find, 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion ($17.95 for 4 ounces) find, 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel ($17.95 for 4 ounces) find, 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid ($17.95 for 4 ounces) find; and ProActiv Solution Clarifying Night Cream ($28.75 for 1 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Retinol What it does: Retinol is the term used for the entire vitamin A molecule. Applied to skin, retinol is a beneficial cell-communicating ingredient and an antioxidant. Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells and increases the amount of skin-support substances. In skin-care products it is found in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinylaldehyde. In prescription-only skin-care products, it is in the form of retinoic acid (also called tretinoin).
Why it's on the A-list: In addition to functioning as a cell-communicating ingredient and antioxidant, retinol has been shown to increase skin's collagen production and glycosaminoglycan content, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function. Although it is not the only ingredient to look for in an anti-aging product, it deserves strong consideration by anyone concerned with keeping their skin in top shape through the years. You may also want to consider one of the prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin (Renova), tazarotene (Tazorac), or adapalene (Differin); the latter two are highly recommended if you are dealing with wrinkles and breakouts. Those dealing with the triple threat of wrinkles, breakouts, and sun-induced skin discolorations should consider a prescription for Tri-Luma.
Caution: Not everyone can tolerate retinol and many people's skin cannot tolerate any amount of prescription retinoid without experiencing discomfort and visually undesirable side effects. Retinol's most common side effects include flaking, sunburned-like skin. However, this can be mitigated in many cases by using a lower strength or by applying the retinol product less frequently.
Researched Sources: Archives of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 606-612;
Cosmetic Dermatology, supplement,
Revisiting Retinol, January 2005, pages 1-20;
Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 799-804;
Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156-1162;
Mechanisms of Ageing Development, July 2004, pages 465-473; and
Journal of Dermatology, November 2001, pages 595-598.
A-List Products with Retinol: SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% Pure Retinol ($42 for 1 ounce); and Retinol 1.0 Maximum Strength Refining Night Cream with 1.0% Pure Retinol ($48 for 1 ounce); Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate ($22.95 for 1 ounce)
find and Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate ($22.95 for 1 ounce)
find; Philosophy eye believe, deep wrinkle peptide gel ($30 for 0.5 ounce); Alpha Hydrox Retinol Night ResQ ($14.99 for 1.05 ounces); and Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Night Cream ($17.39 for 1.4 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference
Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book,
Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Vitamin C
What it does: One of the most well-researched vitamins for skin, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has multiple benefits for those concerned with reducing (or forestalling) the signs of aging. It is available in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common (although it is the least stable, so packaging to ensure potency of such products is a major concern). Stabilized forms of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
Why it's on the A-list: Efficacious amounts of topical vitamin C (typically 2-10%) have been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin's barrier response, enhance skin's repair process, reduce inflammation, and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.
Researched Sources: International Journal of Toxicology, volume 24, supplement 2, 2005, pages 51-111;
Experimental Dermatology, September 2005, pages 684-691, and June 2003, pages 237-244;
Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 814-817;
Nutrition Reviews, March 2005, pages 81-90;
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, November-December 2004, pages 298-303;
BMC Dermatology, September 2004, page 13;
International Journal of Dermatology, August 2004, pages 604-607; and
Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery, volume 5, issue 2m March-April 2003, pages m145-m149.
A-List Products with Vitamin C: MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Serum ($90 for 1 ounce); DDF C3 Plus Serum ($62 for 0.5 ounce); La Roche-Posay BioMedic Potent-C 10.5 Concentrate ($60 for 1 ounce); SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic ($122 for 1 ounce); Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate ($22.95 for 1 ounce)
find; Jan Marini Skin Research C-ESTA Serum ($60 for 1 ounce); Cellex-C Serum for Sensitive Skin ($90 for 1 ounce); and Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals Vitamin C Ester Eye Therapy ($50 for 0.5 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference
Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book,
Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Vitamin E
What it does: Vitamin E is considered an antioxidant superstar in its own right. This fat-soluble vitamin is available in various forms, with the most biologically active being alpha tocopherol. Simply put, vitamin E in all its forms works in several different ways to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C, as research has shown that vitamin C can regenerate "spent" vitamin E molecules. However, this synergy depends on using stabilized forms of both vitamins and putting them in packaging that minimizes their exposure to light or air.
Why it's on the A-list: Vitamin E protects the top layers of skin from early stages of sun damage, increases the efficacy of active sunscreen ingredients, reduces the formation of free radicals when skin is exposed to UVA rays and other sources of skin stress, prevents the peroxidation of fats (a leading source of cell membrane damage in the body), and reduces trans-epidermal water loss from skin, which strengthens the skin's barrier function. All of this leads to skin that is better able to defend itself from damage that leads to visible signs of aging.
Researched Sources: Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321;
International Journal of Immunopathology and Pharmacology, July-September 2005, pages 497-502;
Experimental Dermatology, September 2005, pages 684-691;
International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, July 2005, pages 116-119;
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, January-February 2005, pages 20-26;
Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2005, pages 304-307;
Photochemistry and Photobiology, April 1993, pages 613-615; and
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2005, page 4.
A-List Products with Vitamin E: Jason Natural Ester-C Lotion Anti-Oxidant Regenerating Moisturizer ($16 for 4 ounces); NeoStrata Daytime Protection Cream SPF 15, PHA 10 ($33 for 1.75 ounces); Kiehl's Light Nourishing Eye Cream ($20 for 0.5 ounce); Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner ($14.95 for 6 ounces)
find, Skin Recovery Moisturizer ($16.95 for 2 ounces)
find, and Skin Balancing Moisture Gel ($16.95 for 2 ounces)
find; RevaleSkin Night Cream ($99 for 1.7 ounces); Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Firm, for Eye and Lip Area ($47 for 0.5 ounce); and Artistry by Amway Skin Refinishing Lotion ($48.85 for 1 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference
Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book,
Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Note: Vitamin E should not be listed on cosmetics simply as "vitamin E." Instead, manufacturers are required to list the form of the vitamin. Examples you will come across include tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocotrienols, alpha tocopherol, and tocopheryl succinate.
Niacinamide
What it does: Also known as vitamin B3, topically applied niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to address skin discolorations (often in tandem with other proven skin-lightening agents) and to mitigate acne.
Why it's on the A-list: Niacinamide is a potent cell-communicating ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Assuming skin is being protected from sun exposure, niacinamide can improve skin's elasticity, dramatically enhance its barrier function, help erase discolorations, and revive skin's healthy tone and texture.
Researched Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, October 2003, page 681, and September 2000, pages 524-531; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 860-865; Experimental Dermatology, July 2005, pages 498-508; Journal of Radiation Research, December 2004, pages 491-495; and Journal of Dermatological Science, volume 31, 2003, pages 193-201.
A-List Products with Niacinamide: The largest selection of products with niacinamide are found in the Olay skin-care line. Among their best options are: Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Moisturizer, Mature Skin Therapy ($17.49 for 1.7 ounces); Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum Fragrance-Free ($18.99 for 1.7 ounces), and Regenerist UV Defense Regenerating Lotion SPF 15 ($18.99 for 2.5 ounces).
Other A-list products with niacinamide include Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner ($14.95 for 6 ounces) find, Hydrating Treatment Cream ($16.95 for 2 ounces) find, and Skin Balancing Moisture Gel ($16.95 for 2 ounces) find; Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence ($35 for 1 ounce); and La Roche-Posay Biomedic C-Recovery Treatment ($50 for 1 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Sunscreen Actives
What they do: All sunscreen actives work (to varying degrees of success) to shield skin from damaging UVA and UVB light emitted by the sun. "Chemical" sunscreens such as avobenzone or octinoxate work by converting UV light to heat energy before damage to skin can occur. "Non-chemical" sunscreens (which include only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) work by deflecting and scattering UV light before it can penetrate and cause damage to skin. Regardless of which actives you use, you must make sure that at least one of the following ingredients is present to ensure you are getting sufficient protection from UVA light: avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or, outside the United States, Tinosorb.
Why they're on the A-list: Sunscreen is the first and foremost best defense against wrinkles-Period! Let me say that again: It's important! Daily application of a sunscreen (whether it's in a moisturizer or a foundation) rated SPF 15 or greater is critical to preventing new wrinkles and keeping existing lines from deepening each year. Ignoring this fundamental principle and focusing instead on the myriad anti-aging claims on product labels is an open invitation for more wrinkles, skin discolorations, and potentially, skin cancer. (Remember: If the claims for the product don't involve claims about sun protection or sunscreen, then they don't require any proof of efficacy.) None of the other ingredients chronicled in this report will work as well for your skin if you ignore the importance of or are not diligent about applying sunscreen daily. Ongoing use of an effective, broad-spectrum sunscreen allows skin to reap maximum benefit from "anti-aging" products. Skin is also better able to repair itself, has a stronger immune response, and will maintain its firmness years longer than it will for those who disregard sun protection or, even worse, continue to tan, whether in the sun or in a tanning salon, and the latter is much worse than getting a tan from the sun.
Shop for sunscreens that not only provide sufficient UVA protection but also include antioxidants and other skin-supportive ingredients. Including such ingredients allows the sunscreen to work even better, while you'll also be fortifying your skin with part of what it needs to remain healthy.
Researched Sources: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 2005, pages 937-958; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, August 2004, pages 200-204; Cutis, September 2003, pages 11-15; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, January 2003, pages 65-71; and Archives of Dermatology, October 2002, pages 1319-1325).
A-List Sunscreens for Normal to Oily Skin: Avon Anew Advanced All-in-One Max SPF 15 Lotion ($16.50 for 1.7 ounces), Ageless Results Renewing Day Cream SPF 15 ($14.50 for 1.7 ounces), and Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 ($12 for 4 ounces); Clinique Sun-Care UV-Response Face SPF 30 ($17.50 for 1.7 ounces); Neutrogena Healthy Skin Visibly Even Daily SPF 15 Moisturizer ($13.09 for 1.7 ounces); Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Daily Mattifying Lotion with SPF 15 and Antioxidants ($18.95 for 2 ounces) find, Essential Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 15 ($12.95 for 6 ounces) find, and Ultra-Light Weightless Finish SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray ($15.95 for 4 ounces) find; Prescriptives All You Need+ Broad Spectrum Oil Absorbing Lotion SPF 15 ($40 for 1.7 ounces); and Estee Lauder DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 15, for Oily Skin ($38 for 1.7 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
A-List Sunscreens for Normal to Dry Skin: Almay Sun Protector for Body SPF 30 ($8.99 for 4.2 ounces) and Sun Protector for Face SPF 30 ($8.99 for 4.2 ounces); Good Skin All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30 ($12 for 1.7 ounces); Mary Kay TimeWise Day Solution Sunscreen SPF 25 ($30 for 1 ounce); Paula's Choice Extra Care Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30+, for Normal to Dry Skin ($12.95 for 6 ounces) find; Elizabeth Arden Extreme Conditioning Cream SPF 15 ($36 for 1.7 ounces); Jan Marini Skin Research Bioglycolic Facial Lotion SPF 15 ($36 for 2 ounces); Prescriptives Anti-Age Advanced Protection Lotion SPF 25 ($60 for 1.7 ounces); SkinCeuticals Sports UV Defense SPF 45 ($34 for 3 ounces); and Kiss My Face Face Factor Face + Neck SPF 30 ($10 for 2 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
A-List Sunscreens for Sensitive Skin: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 ($16.50 for 1.4 ounces); Good Skin All Calm Gentle Sunscreen SPF 25 ($12 for 1.7 ounces); Paula's Choice Pure Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15 ($14.95 for 6 ounces) find and Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 ($14.95 for 1 ounce) find; Obagi Nu-Derm Physical UV Block SPF 32 ($40 for 2 ounces); and SkinCeuticals Physical UV Defense SPF 30 ($34 for 3 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
Note: Most foundations with sunscreen contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the sole active ingredients. Such sunscreens are also good choices for those with sensitive skin. For more information, visit www.Beautypedia.com or refer to my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.
The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role to Help Skin Look its Best >>
VIEW CART
