Bonus Beauty Bulletin from Paula Begoun - Full Version - CosmeticsCop.com

SHOP SKIN CARE MAKEUP SAMPLES LEARN

Beauty Secret: Olive Oil as a Moisturizer

In the world of skin care, startling antiaging and antiwrinkle properties can be attributed to almost any plant-sourced ingredient. One of the latest is olive oil. The concept of olive oil having antiaging properties stems from some evidence that diets high in olive oil may help prevent heart disease (Sources: European Journal of Clinical Nutrition, January 2002, pages 72–81; Lipids, November 2001, Supplemental, pages S49–S52; Lipids, November 2001, pages 1195–1202). There are also a small number of animal tests showing that topically applied olive oil can protect against UVB damage (Sources: Carcinogenesis, November 2000, pages 2085–2090; Journal of Dermatological Science, March 2000, Supplemental, pages S45–S50).

It does seem that olive oil is a good antioxidant and assuredly it's a good moisturizing ingredient. But research shows similar results for other oils as well, so olive oil isn’t the only option. And despite all of the skin-care products boasting of containing olive oil, if you have dry to very dry skin, the pure stuff you can buy at your local grocery store is the best way to get it.

Along with other non-fragrant plant oils (such as evening primrose, black currant, and jojoba) olive oil is beneficial for skin because of its fatty acid content. Olive oil contains essential fatty acids dry skin needs, including oleic, palmitic, and linoleic acids. It also contains phenolic compounds that provide antioxidant benefit. Also worth mentioning is olive oil’s anti-inflammatory property. Although this benefit has been demonstrated when olive oil is consumed orally, it is reasonable to assume that topical application would net this benefit too. Olive oil appears to decrease pro-inflammatory omega-6 fatty acids while increasing anit-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids (Source: National Medicines Comprehensive Database, 10th Edition, 2008, pages 1,089-1,091).

Try mixing a few drops of extra virgin olive oil with your regular nighttime moisturizer and see if it offers your dry skin additional improvement. Olive oil may also be applied around the eyes if skin in this area is dry. You may also apply olive oil by itself as a nighttime treatment, or try mixing it with your body lotion for enhance results.


Paulas Pick
Smiley Face
MARY KAY Lip Protector Sunscreen SPF 15 ($7.50/.16 ounce)
Lip Protector Sunscreen SPF 15 combines an in-part zinc oxide sunscreen with petrolatum and other lip-smoothing emollients and antioxidant soybean oil along with vitamin E. This smart lip balm is a beautiful option for keeping lips smooth and protected year-round. The addition of yellow coloring agents helps offset the slight white cast from the zinc oxide, a thoughtful touch.

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Dear Paula

Dear Paula,

I came across a disturbing article regarding skin exfoliation. It stated that normal human cells cannot divide indefinitely and that regular use of AHAs will actually lead to more wrinkles in the long run. Is this true? I'm not so concerned for myself, but my daughter (who's 11) is already using M.D.Forte products. I'd love to know what you think.

Barbara, via e-mail



Dear Barbara,

Yes, it is absolutely true that skin cells have a limited life span of regeneration, but regeneration takes place deep—and I mean deep—in the dermis, far away from the surface of skin where AHAs or BHA have an effect. In terms of increasing exfoliation, AHAs only affect the outer layer of skin, which has no impact on the issue of new skin cell regeneration whatsoever! I know lots of cosmetics companies would love for women to believe their products affect actual cell production but, thankfully, they can't. BHA can penetrate slightly better because salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, but only into the pore; again, they do not have any effect on the area in the dermis where new skin cells are generated.

Let me remind you that the need for exfoliating the surface of skin or within pores is because the surface-level dead layers of skin or the lining of the pores often need help, due to sun damage, dryness, oil buildup, or genetics, in doing what they should do naturally, which is exfoliate. Skin will always look better and feel smoother when the top superficial layers of dead skin cells are removed, allowing healthy cells to be uncovered.

Anything But Routine: Paula Analyzes Your Skin Care Regimen

Let Paula take a look at your daily skin-care routine, free! Readers are invited to submit their skin care regimens with the complete names of products they use along with their skin type and skin concerns.  Paula will review your routine and make recommendations for product changes to assist in creating a personalized skin-care plan.
Note: Due to the anticipated high volume of response, Paula will not be able to review every skin-care regimen. Photos or video of products/regimen are encouraged. Please submit regimens to: regimen@paulaschoice.com

Natalie's skin-care regimen submitted via email:

Dear Paula,

I've been grateful for all your work for many years and literally reference your books almost daily. I admit, I'm a beauty junkie! What concerns me is that now I notice so many products which contain BHT. You have stated that it can be carcinogenic and this accords with what is on the internet. BHT is often in products for sensitive skin (even more worrying, especially since I have sensitive skin). It is also in a lot of makeup. Now that I read ingredient labels, I do not purchase anything with this suspect ingredient, no matter how much I may otherwise want it. Is this a necessary precaution? The information on BHT is pretty scary.
Natalie, via email

Dear Natalie,

For the most part, the negative information on BHT has to do with pure concentrations of the substance and its potential for harm when ingested compared to applying it to skin. BHT is used to preserve some foods as well as food packaging material, such as plastic bags for crackers and similar items. Although BHT can be carcinogenic at high concentrations consumed orally, it is not a known skin sensitizer, which is why it sometimes appears in products marketed to those with sensitive skin. BHT is not used in cosmetics in amounts that would pose a cancer risk to consumers. It is typically only 0.1% or less of a product's contents, and although it is absorbed into skin, it does not get into the bloodstream. In short, I wouldn't avoid BHT in skin-care products on the basis of it being a carcinogen or a sensitizer. This is supported in published medical literature summed up in by the scientists and toxicologists behind the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board (Sources: International Journal of Toxicology, Supplement 2002, pages 19-94; and Cancer Letters, June 1995, pages 49-54).

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