Vitamin A can be broken down or converted into many forms; the general term for these derivatives is retinoids. Of the many retinoids available tretinoin or adapalene are prescription-only topical ingredients. Prescription-only, topically applied retinoids are significant for skin because they can positively affect the way cells are formed deep in the dermis.
If you have sun-damaged, dry, wrinkled, or acne-prone skin, you should become familiar with the names Retin-A, Renova, Differin, Avita, and Tazorac, which all contain different forms of retinoids. The active ingredient in Retin-A, Avita, and Renova is tretinoin, Differin uses adapalene, and Tazorac uses tazorotene. In fact, both Renova and Tazorac have been approved by the FDA for the treatment of wrinkles (Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, June 2004, pages 864-866; Archives of Dermatology, November 2002, pages 1486-1493; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, October 2001, pages 613-618; and www.fda.gov ).
Exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the top layers of skin improving its appearance, integrity, and protection potential. They also help improve the function of the pore. In contrast, retinoids affect the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Why the confusion about the effect retinoids can have on the skin? Primarily it's due to the fact that products containing retinoids can cause irritation and inflammation, resulting in the skin becoming flaky and dry. This flaking and dryness is not exfoliation, nor is it a desirable or advantageous result. If retinoids cause your skin to be consistently dry and flaky, it is a problem and you should probably avoid products that contain it or reduce how often you use them.
Despite the valuable effect tretinoin or adapalene can have for skin, don't expect them to "erase" wrinkles because while the improvement is impressive it is not dramatic. However, if skin cells can be produced with a healthier form and shape, the skin's surface will have a smoother appearance, skin cells will do their job of turning over in a more normal fashion, the protective outer layer of skin will remain intact, enhancing the skin's healing response, and on and on. In essence, the skin will behave and look the way it did (to some extent) before it was damaged by the sun.
Regardless of these positive effects, retinoids will be useless, and the skin will be prone to more damage, if you do not wear a sunscreen as well. Not a wrinkle cream in the world, even one approved by the FDA, can have positive results if you don't use an effective sunscreen; without that, you are just adding to damage you already have accumulated.
What retinoids, AHA, and BHA products have in common is that once you stop using them, your skin will revert to the way it was before. These products will not produce permanent change. The smooth exterior lasts only as long as you use them. But used together long-term, they are a formidable weapon in the battle against wrinkles and blemishes. $$$ LORAC Blush ($18) Blush offers a small, but very good, palette of colors. Plum, Rose, Soul, and Peach are particularly great. Avoid Desire and Crimson unless the goal is extreme shimmer on your cheeks. The texture and application are beautiful, and the color begins sheer but builds well.
Dear Paula,
I have a few questions. I am rather skeptical as I have tried a million product lines and my dry/normal/ reactive skin (I live in Western Australia) just doesn't seem to improve! Instead, after not too long after I begin using new products, it hits a plateau and I just don't think that topical products can give me great skin. I would love to find a product line that is not expensive but actually works! Paula, do you use your own range of products exclusively and can this be proven? And if so, is it because of these products that she now has such lovely skin? Have you had any dermal filling, laser treatments, or skin lightening performed in or just before 2008?
Tanya, via e-mail
Dear Tanya,
Skepticism is a very good thing when it comes to the cosmetics industry. Given the 17 books I’ve written about skin care and makeup, I can say without question that it would be completely unwise not to be skeptical as the claims for cosmetic products often lie, many of the formulas are disappointing to awful, and the prices are often insulting for what you get. However, without knowing more about what products you’ve used in the past it is hard for me to assess why you may be having problems. For example, if you have rosacea that would impact the kind of skin-care products you should be using and you would probably need prescription medication as well. You may also have been using products that were too drying for your skin type or contained sensitizing ingredients, in which case you would always end up with unwanted results.
In terms of my own skin, I absolutely use my own products and have since I created them in 1995. I own thousands of products given the books I write, but because I know exactly how I’ve formulated my products I wouldn’t use anything else. There is no way to prove what anyone uses on their skin from models to celebrities or even your friends or family, at least not unless you’re willing to watch them go through their daily routines! You have to decide if you want to take my word for it or not, but it really doesn’t matter given I recommend hundreds of products besides my own. No matter whose products you use, there are great ones to choose from in all price ranges.
I have had dermal fillers and laser resurfacing as well as Botox, though as of yet I have not had plastic surgery (but I’m open to plastic surgery when the time comes). I feel my skin looks the way it does because of a combination of my skin-care routine and the medical corrective procedures I’ve had done. Great skin is more often than not a combination of your skin-care routine, genetics, not getting a tan, not smoking, and, as you get older, having routine cosmetic corrective procedures. Anyone telling you it is just about skin care is not telling you the truth.
Become a Paula’s Choice Partner and sell quality, unique, state-of-the-art products to your friends, family, business associates, or clientele. You can set up an at-home business on your own or through your spa, salon, doctor’s office or specialty store..
Some of the benefits of becoming a Paula's Choice Partner*:
Special discounted pricing
40% off retail prices
FREE SHIPPING on your initial order
Low minimum purchase requirements: $350 first order, $200 subsequent orders
FREE samples of new products
Advanced product formulations
An extensive range of skin care and select makeup products for all skin types
Educational materials and excellent customer service support for you and your customers
Detailed step-by-step guidelines to create the perfect skin care routine
PLEASE DO NOT REPLY TO THIS EMAIL. This email address is used only to send the Beauty Bulletin and is not monitored.
If you have questions for us, please email custserv@cosmeticscop.com. Thank you.
$$$ LORAC Blush ($18) Blush offers a small, but very good, palette of colors. Plum, Rose, Soul, and Peach are particularly great. Avoid Desire and Crimson unless the goal is extreme shimmer on your cheeks. The texture and application are beautiful, and the color begins sheer but builds well.
