    
Now that so many products contain sunscreen (foundation, concealers, moisturizers, and even face powders), the next question is, what about application? That's a great question! The major issue for the use of any well-formulated sunscreen (SPF 15 or greater with UVA-protecting ingredients) is liberal application, every time (which is why expensive sunscreens may be dangerous because how liberally are you going to apply a 3 ounce $30, $40, or higher priced sunscreen?).
You may have seen recommendations that you should apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you go outside and then again 20 minutes later or whenever you get to where you are going. This is all about the issue of application. Because research has made it clear we aren't wearing enough of the stuff, dermatologists have recommended these usage options to get us to comply, and really put on enough to take great care of our skin.
Within your skin-care routine, exactly when does sunscreen get applied? If you are applying several skin-care products, ranging from toners to acne medications to moisturizers, the rule is that the last item you apply during the day is your sunscreen. If you apply sunscreen and then apply, say, your moisturizer or an anti-acne product, you could inadvertently be diluting or breaking down the effectiveness of the sunscreen you've just applied.
Any skin-care product, or even just water (and almost all moisturizers are more than 50% water), applied over a sunscreen reduces its effectiveness to one degree or another. This is why you have to reapply sunscreen after swimming or perspiring. If you use moisturizers, which are always lipid soluble, over your sunscreen these will break down the sunscreen via dilution or removal, and that is a serious problem. What about applying foundation (one that doesn't contain sunscreen) over the sunscreen you've just applied? That depends on several more factors, such as how much you apply, how thick or oily it is, or what kind of sunscreen you are using. To eliminate any dilution and to add more protection, you can choose to wear a foundation during the day that contains sunscreen. Voila, no more worries.
What if your foundation is the product you've chosen for sun protection? Then the trick is to be sure you've applied it evenly and liberally. If you apply it too thinly or blend most of it off instead of using it full-depth, you would not get the amount of protection listed on the label.
I am concerned about the pressed powders with sunscreen. Although I don't doubt the validity of these product's SPF ratings (including my own), I worry that most women do not apply pressed-powder foundations liberally enough to get the amount of protection stated on the label. If you lightly dust the powder over the skin there is no way you will get the SPF protection the label indicates. You must be sure you apply the pressed powder in a manner that completely and evenly covers the face. I believe that pressed powders are an iffy way to get sun protection for the face, but they are a great way to touch up your makeup during the day and reapply more sunscreen at the same time.
Many of you will be thrilled that my AHA and BHA exfoliants are on sale this week. That's why now is a great time to remind you that use of an exfoliant makes skin more vulnerable to sun damage. Your daytime routine should always include a well-formulated sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater, but this is especially true when you're routinely exfoliating skin. The fresh, even-toned skin that's revealed must be protected from sun damage because the dead, dried skin cells now being exfoliated serve in part to protect skin from sun damage (sort of like a callus on your foot protects the tender skin beneath it from damage).
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 ISOMERS Foaming Facial Cleanser ($20 for 4.06 ounces).
This is a very good fragrance-free water-soluble cleanser for all skin types. It is somewhat similar to but stronger than the basic formula of many baby shampoos. Foaming Facial Cleanser rinses easily and doesn't leave skin feeling stripped or dry. If only the price weren't so high. Note that Isomers does occasionally offer larger sizes for a value price, so if you're tempted, check to make sure you are getting the most bang for your buck!
For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. It features over 40,000 detailed product reviews for only $24.95/year. |
After reading the 7th Edition of your book Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, I told a friend of mine that menthol is being used in the Clinique Clarifying Lotion she loves, and that their toners contain a lot of alcohol. I advised that she should be careful using these products and may want to consider something else. She emailed Clinique asking for their input. Following is the response she received from a Clinique chemist regarding the use of menthol in their Clarifying Lotion 2:
"Menthol is used for skin cooling effect. All Clinique products undergo comprehensive clinical testing. If it was deemed to be unsafe for use in products, we would not use it. Further, menthol is allowed for use in food, as a flavoring agent, by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration."
Could you shed some light on this response as it relate to Clinique? My friend has extremely oily skin and Clinique's Clarifying Lotion seem to reduce the oiliness.
Gerilynn, via email
Dear Gerilynn,
What a strange response from Clinique. First, while menthol is used for "cooling" on skin, exactly how does that benefit oily skin or breakouts? How does "cooling" skin help it? Second, of course menthol is safe, but the fact that it won't devastate or seriously damage skin doesn't tell you anything about what positive effect it does have on skin. Third, just because a skin-care ingredient is part of a food group doesn't make it good for skin. Cayenne pepper and hot tamales are approved by the FDA as food products, but that doesn't mean you should put them on your face. Clinique completely ignored the issue of menthol being an irritant, instead playing it off as a beneficial ingredient.
There is no research or evidence showing menthol to be helpful or effective for skin when it comes to breakouts, oil production, exfoliation, or helping skin heal. Menthol is merely a "counter-irritant," which means it is an ingredient that causes irritation (Source: Archives of Dermatologic Research, May 1996, pages 245–248). The irritation menthol causes can reduce some itching sensations but that's about it.
Clinique's Clarifying Lotion 3 and 4 are problematic because they contain mostly alcohol and little else, aside from a tiny amount of salicylic acid and several coloring agents. Although salicylic acid can be a good exfoliant, alcohol is drying and irritating and has no other purpose for skin. Irritation is always problematic for the health of skin, and alcohol is at the top of the list of ingredients that are irritating when it is a major ingredient in a skin-care product. Salicylic acid is the beneficial ingredient in these products, but there are other options that contain salicylic acid without irritants for your skin to struggle against. Stridex, Neutrogena, Bare Escentuals, Cosmedicine, and Paula's Choice all offer gentle, effective products with salicylic acid.
As for the alcohol making skin less oily, it certainly will do that—temporarily. The ongoing problem is the irritation that alcohol causes triggers nerve endings in the skin that stimulate oil production. The result is not a worthwhile trade-off: a brief respite from oiliness only to have the problem come back with a vengeance. |
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I wanted to write to you and share my amazement and gratitude that your products are just what they say they are, and are producing good results for my skin. The 8% Alpha Hydroxy, 2% Beta Hydroxy Gel, and Blemish Fighting Solution have greatly improved all of my skin, including my problematic chin. Thank you from my heart!
—Kimberly S.
After studying histology (and skin cells and structure in particular) I became disgusted with the whole cosmetics industry and the outrageous claims it made. I stopped using most skin care products out of distrust. Then my sister-in-law recommended your books... and I tried again. Using real science facts and peer-reviewed studies you showed me that some products do work, even if not for the reasons the manufacturers claim. Now I have taken another step and purchased your BHA, AHA, and hydrating treatment cream and feel I've had another breakthrough. I'm 44, and my skin hasn't been this clear and soft since I was in grade 6!! It's too late for you to help my teenage years, but I'm placing an order today for my teenage sons. (Thank you too for the sample sizes! The fact that you offer them at all is further proof to me that you stand behind your products and actually care if I get something that works for me.)
—Jane
I have super sensitive skin, that easily turns red and irritated. I can't use any amount of BHA (salicylic acid), so I am so surprised that I am able to use this AHA nightly with absolutely no redness or irritation whatsoever! Makes my skin glow, and helps keep breakouts at bay. A little goes a long way, a great value for the price!
—Andrea
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Let Paula take a look at your daily skin care routine, free! Readers are invited to submit their skin care regimens with the complete names of products they use along with their skin type and skin concerns. Paula will review your routine and make recommendations for product changes to assist in creating a personalized skin care plan.
Dear Paula,
I saw your request for skin care regimens and thought I would submit mine. I've sometimes thought it might be a bit excessive, but each step seems to have a different function, so here it is.
A.M. Cleanse with DHC olive oil cleanser (I know you think it's too expensive, but I love it)
Tone with your Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner
Exfoliate with NeoStrata Lotion Plus (15 AHA) - I have been doing this for years with no problems
First hydration with Olay Daily Regenerist Serum
Second hydration with Olay Regenerist Touch of Sun Lotion SPF 15
P.M. First three steps are the same: Cleanse, tone, exfoliate
Wrinkle protection with Renova .05%
First hydration with Olay Daily Regenerist Serum
Second hydration with your Skin Recovery Moisturizer
Third (!) for good measure - a splash of grape seed oil before bed
I am 56 and am extremely fortunate to have smooth, even-toned skin with a medium-dark olive complexion. It was oily and breakout-prone when I was a teenager and well into my adulthood, but not for the last 10 years or so. Twice a year at a doctor's office I get a glycolic peel, usually at a pretty good strength as my skin seems to take it all quite well. I haven't ever received any Botox or other treatments. I get compliments on my skin all the time and people usually think I'm still in my 40's, so I must be doing something right (but most of it is genetics, having quite smoking early enough, and staying out of the sun).
What do you think? Too much work? I have a streamlined version (and sample packets) for travel.
Naomi Segal Deitz
Hi Naomi,
For the most part, I think your routine is spot-on! You've assembled products that I've rated highly and that work for you based on your needs and personal preferences. My suggestions would be to consider using a lower-strength AHA product morning and evening. Although you've been using the NeoStrata product with 15% AHA for years with good results, that doesn't mean you're not overdoing it and at some point your skin will experience a kickback from irritation. Try using an AHA product with 10% glycolic or lactic acid and see how your skin responds. DHC Renewing AHA Cream is a good option. The other suggestion is to only use the grape seed oil when your skin is feeling or looking drier than usual. You're using plenty of products at night that will moisturize skin, so the oil likely isn't doing much beyond making your skin feel greasy. Alternately, you could go one or two evenings a week just using the grape seed oil after cleansing and toning. That would streamline your evening routine considerably! Otherwise, keep up the good work!
| Note: Due to the anticipated high volume of response, Paula will not be able to review every skin care regimen. Photos or video of products/regimen are encouraged. Please submit regimens to: regimen@paulaschoice.com |
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