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Several lines of cosmetic products are dedicated to the art of shaving. A brochure for one of these lines says a perfect shave requires an understanding of the fundamental principles of wet shaving and the use of five easy products (their products, of course). But you can easily do the five steps and not use their products (which were way overpriced for what they contained, especially considering the few bells and whistles would just be rinsed down the drain). Shaving involves a few basics: getting the legs wet, applying shaving cream or gel, shaving and rinsing. You only need two shaving products, the razor and a (preferably) non-fragranced shaving cream or gel. This can be followed by a moisturizer if you shave in the evening or a sunscreen for daytime if your legs are going to see daylight.
There is no real trick to shaving. We all know how to do it, but not everyone knows how to get the best results and the softest legs. The following tips are the basics of a great, smooth shave:
- It is essential for your legs to be wet for at least two or three minutes before starting. Few things are as irritating or chafing as shaving dry or slightly damp legs.
- Find a razor that works well for your skin. Given the pressure you use while shaving, the texture of your skin, and the density of hair growth, this takes some experimentation. No single type of razor works well for everyone, but the three- and four-bladed razors are gentler by far and produce better results than throwaway or single-use razors.
- Change the blade frequently—dull razors make for poor shaving results. How often to change the blade depends on frequency of use, hair density, and how thick your skin is. As a general guideline, using a fresh blade every third or fourth shave is fine.
- When it comes to shaving creams, for both men and women, those that contain emollients (usually those identified as being good for sensitive, dry skin) work perfectly on the legs! There is absolutely no reason to buy shaving gels or creams in pretty pink containers when in truth they are virtually identical to those in more masculine or unadorned packages.
- Avoid shaving products that contain irritants. Used over newly shaved skin, irritating ingredients can cause red bumps and ingrown hairs. When I find myself without shaving cream in the shower, I use hair conditioner or body wash instead, which is far easier on the legs than bar soap or bar cleanser. Common irritants include menthol, eucalyptus, peppermint, and lime.
- For best results, shave against the growth of hair, go slowly, rinse the blade often, and be careful.
- After you are done, do not use a loofah or washcloth; shaving is enough exfoliation for your legs. Any extra abrasion can cause too much irritation and create problems.
- At night, apply a moisturizer, and during the day, if your legs are going to be exposed to sun, apply a moisturizer with sunscreen (SPF 15 or greater) that contains the UVA-protecting ingredients avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Tinosorb, or Mexoryl SX.
- Do not use an AHA or BHA lotion over newly shaved skin; they can be unnecessarily irritating at this time.
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 ESTEE LADUER Nutritious Vita-Mineral Loose Powder Makeup SPF 15 ($33.50). Minerals abound in this loose-powder foundation with a pure titanium dioxide sunscreen, but guess what—the main mineral is talc, a mineral that is present in almost any loose or pressed powder you’ll come across. Clearly, Lauder doesn’t want to denigrate talc the way many other mineral makeup lines choose to do, and that’s great. In fact, the talc in this formula has a super-fine texture that, combined with the silicone-based binding agents, creates this powder makeup’s gossamer application and seamless finish. This is an outstanding “mineral makeup” that’s more sheer than all the others I’ve reviewed to date. It glides over skin, blurring slight imperfections and leaving a faint shiny finish (the predominant finish is matte, making this best for normal to oily skin). Because this powder is used as an adjunct to your moisturizer or liquid foundation with sunscreen, you will get great added protection. On its own, however, you’d really have to pile it on to get the stated level of protection, and doing that would lend a slightly ashen look to every shade of this powder foundation. So, if you consider this a great finishing powder with sunscreen you’re apt to love it. Avoid the Intensity 8.0 shade because it’s too ash to look natural
One more comment: The “nutritious” ingredients in this loose-powder foundation include antioxidant vitamins and plant extracts. They’re an intriguing addition, but the packaging for this product won’t keep them stable during use.
 YES TO CARROTS C Today or C You in the Morning, Moisturizing Day Cream for Dry to Sensitive Skin ($14.99 for 1.7 ounces).
This moisturizer is absolutely the wrong choice for anyone with sensitive skin. It contains fragrance (a big no-no when sensitive skin is an issue) along with fragrant, irritating citrus oils (Ouch!). The formula for this product is nearly identical to that of Yes To Carrots C Through the Night, Night Moisturizing Cream for Dry to Sensitive Skin. This daytime version is inappropriate for morning use because it does not contain sunscreen. If sensitivity isn’t an issue, this is merely an average emollient moisturizer for dry skin. All of the plant extracts and oils won’t last in this product after opening because of the jar packaging. This is also surprisingly void of state-of-the-art ingredients, at least void of an amount that would benefit your skin. One more comment: There is no evidence anywhere showing that minerals from Dead Sea water are purifying for healthy, intact skin, especially not when included in skin care products versus soaking in the Dead Sea water itself.
BANANA BOAT Ultra Defense Continuous Spray Sunblock SPF 85
($14.99 for 6 ounces).
Although this sunscreen contains a hefty amount of active ingredients, including avobenzone for sufficient UVA protection and octocrylene to keep it stable, its base formula is mostly alcohol. That means it is too drying and irritating for all skin types, though it certainly dries fast and feels light. Other sunscreens achieve these tactile benefits without resorting to skin-damaging alcohol, so this isn’t the sunscreen to choose for any skin type. High SPF numbers may sound impressive, but SPF is about time in the sun, not about “better quality” protection. There are some dermatologists who feel it is better to wear sunscreens with high SPF ratings due to application concerns; that is, they believe that no one really applies sunscreen liberally enough, so if the product is loaded with sunscreen actives, then they’ll get more protection even though they’re putting a lesser amount on. If you want a sunscreen with a high SPF rating there are others to consider that don’t contain alcohol. One such example is my Paula’s Choice Ultra-Light Weightless Finish SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray.
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Dear Paula,
My question is about tretinoin. I have not been able to find good information on the difference between the products made with it. What is the difference between Retin-A, Retin-A Micro, and Renova? Is it the percentage of tretinoin? Is it the base the active ingredient is added to? I have read that Retin-A Micro is stronger but is released slowly over a longer period of time, making it less irritating. My dermatologist's office compounds their own tretinoin products and sells it for less than prescription Retin-A. Is this a good option? What is the stability of tretinoin in regard to light and shelf life? Thanks so much and keep up the awesome work you do.
Lisa, via email
Dear Lisa,
Retin-A, Retin-A Micro, and Renova all contain tretinoin as the active ingredient. They all come in different concentrations of tretinoin, so beyond this their primary difference is the other ingredients they contain. Retin-A and Retin-A Micro are meant to be better for those with normal to oily skin and Renova’s cream base is for those with normal to dry skin. There is also a difference in the way they are marketed (Retin-A for acne and Renova for wrinkles). But that is not about effectiveness, just product positioning, because regardless of the base it’s in, tretinoin has the same effect on skin. Retin-A Micro makes many claims, but the primary one is that it is supposed to be gentler on skin due to its controlled release. Despite this feature, many people still find it too irritating.
Because tretinoin is tretinoin, there is no reason not to try your dermatologist’s compound and see how it works for you. However, shelf-life for tretinoin (or any pharmaceutical for that matter) is limited. Expiration dating would certainly be included on the pharmacy-dispensed version, but I doubt your physician provides that detail for his product, although he might; it pays to ask and get a specific answer. Also, retinoids are unstable in the presence of air and sunlight, so they almost always come packaged in airtight tubes; be sure your physician is providing adequate packaging. Actually, if your physician isn’t aware of the light and oxidation issue tretinoin has, consider seeing another doctor who’s up to speed on such critical matters!
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Expert Reviews, Beautiful Results
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- Korres Skin Care and Makeup (full line review)
- Clinique Youth Surge daytime moisturizers with sunscreen
- Revlon ColorStay Mineral Mousse Makeup SPF 20
- Olay Regenerist UV Defense Regenerating Lotion SPF 50
- M.A.C. Prep + Prime Line Filler
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