It’s a myth that women outgrow acne yet the belief that you're not supposed to break out once you reach your 20s and beyond persists! If only that myth were true, my skin-care struggles in life would have been very different. In fact, women in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and even 50s can have acne just like teenagers, and the treatment principles remain the same. Not everyone who has acne as a teenager will grow out of it, and even if you had clear skin as a teenager, there's no guarantee that you won't get acne later in life, perhaps during menopause. You can blame this often-maddening inconsistency on hormones. What is true is that men can outgrow acne, because after puberty men's hormone levels level out, while women's hormone levels fluctuate throughout their lifetime, which is why many women experience breakouts around their menstrual cycle (Sources: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2004, pages 129-138; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, May 2006, pages 281-290; International Journal of Dermatology, November 2007, pages 1188-1191).
Regardless of your age, gender, skin color, or ethnicity, what causes acne is the same across the board (Source: British Journal of Dermatology, May 2000, pages 885–892). As a result there are certain basics for fighting breakouts that are essential if you are going to have any chance of winning the battle. To create a plan of action—and it does take an organized plan of action and experimentation—it is essential to let go of all the persistent and pervasive but inaccurate information concerning blemishes and instead learn what really can help your skin. You can’t choose wisely if you don’t know what you’re fighting against! If you don’t understand all your options and don’t focus on what can work and what can’t, you will end up making the condition worse than it was to begin with, or find temporary relief only to have the problems show up time and time again. I discuss all of the various options for managing acne in my latest book, The Original Beauty Bible, 3rd Edition.
 $$$ CANYON RANCH Protect UVA/UVB SPF 30 ($75 for 1.7 ounces). For the money, this daytime moisturizer with sunscreen is a mixed bag. On the list of pros is the fact that it contains gentle mineral-based active ingredients to ensure sufficient UVA protection. It also contains a blend of cell-communicating ingredients, antioxidants, and skin-identical ingredients. In the con column is the price, which, considering the size of the container, isn’t going to encourage the liberal application necessary to ensure sun protection. There’s also the fact that what could have been a brilliant sunscreen for sensitive skin is sullied by several potentially irritating fragrance chemicals. Last, it’s disappointing that most of the antioxidants are present in minuscule amounts—for the price, antioxidants should be front and center in this product! On balance, if the cost doesn’t bother you, this is an overall impressive daytime moisturizer for normal to dry skin not prone to breakouts. It is not recommended for sensitive or rosacea-affected skin.
 AMERICAN BEAUTY Beauty Boost Overnight Radiance Eye Cream ($26 for 0.50 ounce). The American Beauty line, owned by Estee Lauder, is sold at Kohl’s department stores. Given that Lauder owns American Beauty, it isn’t surprising that the ingredient list for American Beauty’s eye cream is similar to the ingredient list of many products from other Lauder-owned lines, such as Aveda, Clinique, Bobbi Brown, and Prescriptives. All of these lines’ products contain an impressive range of skin-friendly emollients, skin-identical and cell-communicating ingredients, and antioxidants. Unfortunately, Lauder’s quality formulas throughout their product lines have the same Achilles’ heel, jar packaging. This unfortunate choice means that the light- and air-sensitive ingredients (all of the really beneficial ingredients) won’t retain their potency once you begin using it. Even in better packaging, however, this eye cream for dry skin would be tough to recommend because it contains fragrant plants that aren’t the best for skin, especially in the eye area. Also, many of the plants in this formula have unknown or questionable benefit for your skin, which isn’t bad, but it isn’t great, and your skin deserves great.
 GLYMED PLUS Cell Science Rosacea Relief ($64 for 1.6 ounces) makes all manner of claims pertaining to repairing broken capillaries and plugging microscopic leaks that lead to capillary inflammation. A major ingredient in this product is horse chestnut extract. There is research showing that oral consumption of standardized horse chestnut extract can reduce symptoms of chronic venous insufficiency, and it may be a plant extract that has promise for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, but nothing supports Glymed’s claims that topical application will improve the appearance of damaged capillaries (Sources: www.naturaldatabase.com; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 873–880; and Journal of Cosmetic Science, September/October 2006, pages 369–376). The horse chestnut won’t help capillaries, and the lavender and rosemary oils can cause irritation and make inflamed areas of skin appear worse.
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Dear Paula,
I have gleaned much helpful information from your books and had one problem that I wasn't sure how to solve. Your Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me book indicates that most products labeled as eye creams or specifically for use around the eye area often are simply smaller-packaged and more expensive versions of products for the rest of the face. You wrote that any product that is safe, well-formulated, and appropriate for the facial skin should be fine for the eye area as well.
Here’s my dilemma: After cleansing at night, I use an AHA moisturizer. I use a moisturizer during the day with SPF 15 that contains avobenzone. Both the AHA and the sunscreen are irritating for my eye area, and therefore I don't want to use them around my eyes. Yet the area underneath my eyes does tend to get dry and I'd like to use some moisturizer on it. What do you suggest? Should I buy a product specifically for the eyes or should I just get a well-formulated facial moisturizer? I find that most facial moisturizers have fragrance or other ingredients that work fine on my face but tend to irritate my eyes. In contrast, most eye creams I come across are fragrance-free.
Carly, via e-mail
Dear Carly,
This is a great example of how the cosmetic industry’s superfluous products often cause consumer confusion. Many consumers are certain they should use a special eye cream, but rarely stop to question why they believe that, other than because it’s what the cosmetics companies (and countless fashion magazines) say to do. It’s a concept spun by many cosmetics lines that creates a false sense of need, especially for vulnerable customers concerned with eliminating or reducing lines around the eye. A cursory look at the ingredient list on any eye cream or gel shows that they are either identical or virtually identical to what you’ll see in facial moisturizers, with the only real difference being texture and, as you mentioned, many eye-area moisturizers are fragrance-free (but ideally, facial moisturizers should follow this same principle). Despite this reality, most cosmetics shoppers accept the need for a special eye-area product as fact.
In your case, the solution is simpler than you think. The only time to consider a separate product for the eye area (not necessarily a product labeled an “eye cream”) is when the skin under the eye is different from the skin on other areas of the face. Next, don’t use your AHA product around the eye area if stinging or burning are consistent problems (AHA products can be sensitizing for some skin types). It would also be wise to switch from the avobenzone sunscreen to one that contains only titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as the active ingredients. Both of these broad-spectrum sunscreen agents are far less likely to cause irritation, and are well tolerated when used around the eyes. As great a UVA sunscreen as avobenzone is, there is no denying that it can cause sensitizing reactions, as can all synthetic sunscreen ingredients. A one-step daytime solution would be to consider an elegant moisturizer that contains a sole titanium dioxide or zinc oxide sunscreen with at least SPF 15. This product can be used all over the face, neck, and around the eyes. Excellent fragrance-free options include the following: Beauticontrol Cell Block-C New Cell Protection SPF 20, Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25, Good Skin All Calm Gentle Sunscreen SPF 25, or Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion with SPF 15 & Antioxidants.
Let Paula take a look at your daily skin care routine, free! Readers are invited to submit their skin care regimens with the complete names of products they use along with their skin type and skin concerns. Paula will review your routine and make recommendations for product changes to assist in creating a personalized skin care plan.
Note: Due to the anticipated high volume of response, Paula will not be able to review every skin care regimen. Photos or video of products/regimen are encouraged. Please submit regimens to: regimen@paulaschoice.com
Paula,
You probably have few people of my generation following your website (born 1929, so I am 80 years old), but I have been reading yours for advice since you first became the "Cosmetic Cop" all those years ago. Anyway, thank you for so much good advice on products over the years.
Your latest happy face rating for Clinique's Mild Clarifying Lotion has also been very welcome. However, I do have a particular bone to pick with you, re: your dismissal of Argan oil.
I have been using the oil, included in a regime with products from an English firm, "Mir", that specializes in sensitive (particularly) roseacea skin —which I don't have, but I figure old skin is just as demanding. Over these several years, my skin has NEVER looked or felt so good (ingredients and explanations all listed on site): www.mirskincare.com
Here is my regime (for any other oldsters who might be interested).
Morning:
Cleansing: Mir Gel or, once or twice a week, Neutrogena Pore Refiner Cleanser (AHA, BHA, microbeads), followed by Mir Toner, or Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion or Neutrogena Alcohol Free Toner.
Moisturizer: Mir Moisturizing Lotion with added splash of Argan oil, or Mir Skin Silk Lotion (incorporating Argan oil). NONE OF THE COMMERCIAL MOISTURIZERS CAN COMPARE. Olay, La Prairie, Clinique, Lauder, Sisley, you name it + the odd strange product recommended by friends, all have my face drooping and looking dull. Using the Mir products, people think I'm at least 10-15 years younger.
Make-up and sunscreen: if I'm working at home [am an artist, make big paintings], I wear nothing else. If out running for 2x a week-1/2 hour on streets and by canals [I live in Amsterdam], wear Clinique City Block, or in winter, Mineral powder with SPF15. If going out shopping, Dutch school, etc, am using your recommended L'Oreal True Match foundation with SPF17. It's very nice and I thank you again. I have also become a big fan of (online ordering) ELF. I like all their products better than most I can buy in the shops (except for L'Oreal mascaras or the odd Mac lipstick).
So there you have it. I am in excellent health, though have seen some shrinking with age!
Best,
Jo Wesley a.k.a Jo Baer
Hello Jo,
You’re right, women of your age aren’t my most avid readers or visitors to my Web site, but I’m glad you found me years ago and that my advice has proven useful for you.
Regarding argan oil, I didn’t dismiss it. I stated the facts according to the research: argan oil is a beneficial non-fragrant plant oil for dry skin, but there’s no proof it is superior to any other similar oil. It isn’t an anti-aging miracle, though it’s good news your skin has responded well to it.
The Mir Cleansing Gel you’re using is a mild formula, but would be better without the rose flower water fragrance. You may want to try Neutrogena’s Extra Gentle Cleanser instead and see if you like it as much (it certainly costs less). The other Neutrogena cleanser you occasionally use is highly recommended.
Among the toners you rotate between (though there’s no need to do this; one well-formulated toner is plenty) the Mir Skin Refresher is the least suitable for sensitive skin. It is mostly eau de cologne (rose water is a major ingredient) and also contains fragrance chemicals that can irritate your skin. It’s otherwise a really boring, overpriced formula. I’d keep the Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion in your routine and ditch the others.
The Mir moisturizers are both good choices for normal to dry skin, with the Skin Silk Lotion being preferred because of its greater antioxidant content. Neither moisturizer holds a special formula advantage over those from several other brands, but if they’re working well for you, there’s no need to switch. Please keep in mind that no moisturizer, regardless of ingredients or claims, can stop skin from drooping.
It seems you’re routinely using a well-formulated sunscreen or foundation with sunscreen, and that’s great. You may want to consider adding a serum with retinol and other antioxidants to your routine, as this will help strengthen your skin and further improve barrier function. Consider those from Neutrogena or RoC. I see from the Mir Web site that the company founder doesn’t recommend retinol because it causes irritation and peeling. Although some people will respond that way to retinol, it’s not a “bad” ingredient and is definitely one to consider if you’re concerned about wrinkles and discolorations. |
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