Blackheads are a common, and commonly misunderstood, occurrence. The biggest misconception is that they are caused by dirt. As such, the corresponding thinking is that if you can just keep skin clean enough, the blackheads will stay away. As many of us know, that’s not the case no matter how often you wash your face. Blackheads have nothing to do with cleanliness. Although they can look “dirty”, the coloration you see is actually oxidized sebum (oil) that has backed up in the pore lining. Read on to learn more about how blackheads form—and how to manage this skin nuisance.
Blackheads are formed when hormones cause too much sebum (oil) to be produced, dead skin cells get in the way, the pore is impaired or misshapen, and the path for the oil to exit through the pore is blocked, creating a clog. As this clog nears the surface of the skin, the mixture of oil and cellular debris oxidizes and turns, you guessed it: black. You cannot scrub away blackheads, at least not completely. Using a topical scrub removes the top portion of the blackhead, but does nothing to address the underlying cause, so they're back again before too long. Instead of a scrub, try using a well-formulated BHA (salicylic acid) product. Salicylic acid exfoliates inside the pore lining, dissolving oil and dead skin cells that lead to constant blackheads.
Other than avoiding products that are too emollient (meaning thick or greasy creams) and not using moisturizers unless you truly need them, there are really only three over-the-counter essentials for getting rid of blackheads:
- Avoid bar soaps and use a gentle, water-soluble cleanser instead. The ingredients that keep soap in its bar form can clog pores, and irritation can cause skin cells to flake off before they're ready and accumulate in the pore. The good news is that there are lots of gentle cleansers to consider. It's actually getting more and more difficult to find a cleanser that isn't gentle. Someone with dry skin would want to use a slightly more moisturizing cleanser—but be careful: cleansers that are too emollient can contain ingredients that add to the sebum in your skin, causing further problems.
- Gentle exfoliants that can both remove the excess skin cells on the surface of the face (so they don't build up in the pore) and exfoliate inside the pore (to improve the shape of the pore, allowing a more even flow of oil through it). Keep in mind that the pore itself is lined with skin cells that can build up, creating a narrowed shape that doesn't allow for natural oil flow out of the pore. But don't get carried away with this step. Overdoing it (removing too many skin cells) can cause problems and hurt skin. Exfoliation is essential for both dry and oily skin to eliminate blackheads. Someone with dry skin will want an exfoliant that has a more moisturizing base; those with normal skin can base this decision on personal preference (gel, lotion, or cream texture).
There are still only limited options for this one, and Paula’s Choice offers more options than any other cosmetic company. BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid; also known as salicylic acid, this ingredient can penetrate the pore and exfoliant inside its lining, dissolving debris and helping to restore normal oil flow. Plus BHA also has anti-inflammatory properties, so it reduces the redness of blemishes, and antibacterial properties to reduce breakouts (that handles two skin care problems quite beautifully).
If you cannot use salicylic acid, you might want to try an alpha hydroxy acid, but AHAs are not able to penetrate the pore lining as well, and affect mostly the surface of skin. That can be helpful, but not as efficacious as salicylic acid.
By the way, topical disinfectants such as benzoyl peroxide or topical antibiotics available by prescription do not help in the treatment of blackheads because there is no bacterial involvement related to their formation. You may also want to consider routinely getting a BHA (salicylic acid) peel. This is best performed by a dermatologist and can be a successful adjunct to an at-home routine for battling blackheads, especially if they prove stubborn. It is generally best to wait 4-6 weeks between peels.
- Absorbing excess oil. This step is for those with oily skin and is not necessary for those with dry skin, because with dry skin the problem isn't about excess surface oil, it's only the oil trapped inside the pore. For those with oily skin, clay masks (that don't contain irritating ingredients of mint, peppermint, camphor or the like) are an option and oil-absorbing (blotting) papers can also help.
 $$$ DU WOP Blushbooster ($22.00). Blushbooster powders are beautiful when worn alone or used as a highlighter or “booster” for your regular blush. Each of the sheer shades is shimmery, but not so much as to be overwhelming if applied sparingly. The price is a bit high, but a little goes a long way, so one compact will last you several months. Watermelon is the best option as a highlighter for fair to light skin tones.
Dear Paula,
Many of your comments about botanical ingredients are misleading. You don't clarify which part of the plant you are referring to and how the extract is made. For instance, Arnica montana tincture as prepared according to the Homeopathic Pharmacopoeia of the United States (HPUS) is not the same as "arnica extract." Arnica montana, in tincture form or in pure potency has been used in the practice of homeopathy for about 200 years. I have used it often in my practice over the past 15 years without any cases of contact dermatitis. I never use it on broken skin, but otherwise a 1% or 10% solution works just fine. Many of your references are just collections of statements made from various articles over the years and as mentioned above don't include the amount of detail necessary to be informative. I don't doubt that contact dermatitis can be caused by exposure to the fresh juice of Arnica montana but this is not the same as the mother tincture made by percolation of the plant for three weeks in 87% ethanol.
What may be a skin irritant full strength may become a useful treatment for irritated skin at a much lower dilution. An educated consumer should know that individual reactions to both natural and synthetic substances are variable. As in food allergies, we wouldn't avoid eating nutritious food because somewhere in some book somebody noted a possible allergic reaction. We would know by trial and error (or some medical testing) which foods are best for each of us. The same is (or at least should be) true for cosmetic ingredients.
Donna, via e-mail
Dear Donna,
Thank you so much for your excellent feedback. You are right about the limitations of my ingredient dictionary. When I review plant extracts included in cosmetics the best I can do is give a general impression of the ingredient as it is represented on the product label as that is almost always the only information I can obtain from the company making the product. It has been helpful that more and more companies are listing the source of the plant in question, such as indicating whether the root, bark, or flower extract is being used.
In regard to the risk to skin of any plant extract, my statements are indeed a condensation of information; they are not meant to be a final assay of any single ingredient. But the single most important aspect of my comments is to explain what an ingredient's general pattern of action is, and whether or not any research exists about its positive impact on skin issues such as wrinkles or acne, and whether it's an antioxidant, anti-irritant, and so on.
In regard to irritation, my intent is to minimize the risk to the user of "volatile" or problematic ingredients, particularly if they don't have some other purpose (sunscreen, disinfectant, antioxidant, etc.). Irritation poses serious health problems for skin and I feel strongly that the goal should be to use ingredients that do have a benefit and are not just thrown in to make the product look more "natural."
One other critical point to keep in mind is the way a homeopathic or naturopathic doctor might use a tincture is not the same as how it would be used on a daily basis on a woman's face, perhaps by someone who is likely to also be using exfoliants, scrubs, masks, and a host of other products or treatments that may abrade skin. The average woman is applying over 300 cosmetic ingredients per day on her face, so even if they were all "natural," irritation in some measure would be almost inevitable if precautions weren’t taken when assembling a beneficial skin-care and makeup routine.
Although I respect that your experience with arnica tinctures has not shown evidence of contact dermatitis, there is a good deal of research establishing that skin does not always tell us when it is being irritated or has an allergic reaction. Rather, surface skin often hides the damage that is taking place in the lower layers of skin. That's why I tend to be more concerned with the potential for an irritant response with an ingredient (related to the presence of volatile oils, terpenes and the like, or phenolic compounds) when I don't find it offers any other benefit. Consumers should be presented with the facts about any questionable ingredient, and that is what I endeavor to provide. Once they have this information they can use it or not to make what they feel are the best decisions for them. Regardless of what they decide, I hold fast to my belief that an informed decision is better than not knowing anything about what whatever it is you have to decide.
 |
Did you ever wish you could meet Paula up close and personal, get her take on skincare myths in the cosmetics industry, pick up a signed copy of her best-selling book, "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me," and get a chance to sample some of her newest products? Exciting News! Paula will be presenting on Skincare Mythbusting in these U.S. cities:
|
- Minneapolis
Barnes & Noble Galleria
3225 W. 69th Street
Edina, MN 55435
4/13/09, 7:00 PM
|
- Chicago
Borders Bookstore
830 No. Michigan Ave
(@ Pearson)
Chicago, IL 60611
4/15/09, 7:00 PM
|
|
Expert Reviews, Beautiful Results
Looking for more product reviews? Below is a sampling of new product reviews at Beautypedia.com:
- Yes to Carrots Skin Care
- L'Oreal Skin Genesis Pore Minimizing Skin Re-Smoother
- Clinique Lash Impact Curling Mascara
- M.A.C Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation
- Neutrogena 14-Day Skin Rescue
Access over 40,000 reviews at Paula Begoun's Beautypedia.com for only $24.95/year 
|
